#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON ELEANOR

时尚偶像

阿基坦的埃莉诺

阿基坦的埃莉诺（公元1124年-1204年），是中世纪最重要最著名的人物之一，她对当时的文化生活有非同一般的影响。

她出生于阿基坦公国政权家庭，一个覆盖整个法兰西西南部的大省，这位在欧洲有教养，精通世故以及最合适的继承人，对生活充满异乎寻常的热情。

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE

在15岁时她嫁给了即将上位的法国国王路易七世，并随之搬到巴黎。

习惯奢华与光彩的埃莉诺，发现这个城市阴郁灰黯。

她将新时尚，新面料以及新礼仪从更精练的南方引进了过来。

阿基坦的贵族在时尚意识上向来是有声望的，这位新女王带来的珠宝，眼线还有胭脂震惊了路易公爵。

编年史史记录者Bernard of Clairvaux圣伯尔纳铎评论她的长袍是“未加修饰的满载黄金，白银与宝石“。（抱怨她赤裸裸的奢华哈）

据说她的身高与美貌，在进入老年依旧为实际上的大多数人所着迷。

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE

潮流设定

在她的影响下，女性服装制作变得越来越精细。

bliaut布里奥特（昨天提到的），一种长款拖地袍，成为新潮流。

在埃莉诺统治时期，这款长袍变得与身体越来越贴合，这种贴合一直下沿到臀部，配以装饰腰带穿着。

上身侧边，自腋下打开到臀部，附上丝带，可以帮助收紧面料以贴合身体。

裙子是宽剪裁，陷在轻柔的皱褶里，一直垂到脚边。

这显示出当时大量使用面料的特点。

来自中东的丝绸在欧洲各地都能找到，并被皇室所广泛使用。

在这组以蓝色，灰色，勃艮第紫红和大地色的色系中，丝绸是以昂贵金属线作重度刺绣与高度装饰的。

奢华的服装惹恼了教会神父：Bernard of Clairvaux圣伯尔纳铎抱怨宫廷的女士们“ 拖在她们身后的珍贵材料制造了一堆灰尘”。

而bliaut布里奥特也引起人们的注意，它们自肩膀收紧到肘部，之后延伸出巨大的袖口，长度一直拖到地上。

袖子便以打结处理好缩短长度，便于人们穿着。

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE

广泛影响

一位强大的女性，埃莉诺在1147年陪伴丈夫十字军第二次战役（1145年-1149年），前往君士坦丁堡（现在的伊斯坦布尔）和耶路撒冷。

她随身带了一柜子最精美的衣物，这令她看起来像一个精炼的普罗旺斯皇后，而不是法兰克乡下人。（可想当时的路易七世同学取了这么位白富美鸭梨也素狠大）。

她留下一道潇洒的剪影。

希腊记录者Niketas Choniates评价埃莉诺风格直指拜占庭：

"甚至女性都在十字军之列，像男人一样飒爽的坐在她们的马鞍上，

而这些人的头领，是一位穿着丰富特别的人，因为她裙边上的金色刺绣，被昵称为Chrysopous金脚（金足）。

埃莉诺在1152年与路易解除婚约，并与亨利结婚成为伴侣。

1154年，亨利成为英格兰国王，英格兰进入杰出政权时代，艺术，化妆，罗曼史与诗歌都在埃莉诺的个人影响下被引入进来。

无论她到哪里，埃莉诺都挑战传统，发展个性和精炼文化，将中世纪塑造成著名的罗曼史与骑士精神时代。

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE

FASHION ICON

ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE

Eleanor of Aquitaine (c.1124-1204) is one of the most important and well-known figures of the Middle ages, due to her huge influence on the cultural life of the time.

Born into the ruling family of the Duchy of Aquitaine, a large province that covered most of southwest France, this cultured, sophisticated, and most eligible heiress in Europe had an extraordinary zest for life.

At 15 she married the future King Louis VII of France and moved to Paris.

Used to luxury and splendor, Eleanor found the city bleak and gray.

She introduced new fashions, fabrics, and etiquette from the more sophisticated south.

Nobles from Aquitaine had a reputation for being fashion conscious, and the new queen shocked Louis' courtiers with here jewels, kohl, and rouge.

Chronicler Bernard of Clairvaux remarked that her gowns were "not so much adorned as loaded down with gold, silver, and precious stones."

She was said to be tall and extremely beautiful and continued to enchant men across the known world into here old age.

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE

Setting the trend

Under her influence, women's clothing became increasingly elaborate.

The bliaut, a long overgown, was a new trend.

In Eleanor's reign it grew tighter around the bodice, fitting snugly down to the hips, and was worn with a decorative belt or girdle.

The bodice was split down either side from underarm to hip and attached with ribbons, which could be tied to tighten the fabric across the body.

The skirt was cut wide, falling in light folds and pleats down to the feet.

This emphasized the conspicuous use of rich fabrics.

Silk from the Middle East was readily available throughout Europe and used extensively by the royal court.

In a palette of blues, grays, burgundies, and earth tones, the silk was highly embellished and heavily embroidered in costly metallic threads.

The garments' sumptuous flow outraged church fathers: Bernard of Clairvaux complained about the ladies at court who "drag after them trains of precious material that makes a cloud of dust."

Bliaut sleeves also drew attention; they were tight from shoulder to elbow, then flared out into enormous cuffs long enough to drag on the ground.

Sleeves were knotted to shorten them and to make them more manageable.

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE

Impact abroad

A formidable woman, Eleanor accompanied her husband in 1147 on the Second Crusade (1145-1149), traveling to Constantinople (modern Istanbul) and Jerusalem.

She took chests of the finest clothing with her so she might appear as a sophisticated Provencal queen instead of a Frankish rustic.

She cut a dashing figure.

The Greek chronicler Niketas Choniates noted Eleanor's ride into Byzantium:

"...even women traveled in the ranks of the crusaders, boldly sitting astride in their saddles as men do...

At the head of these was one in particular, richly dressed, who because of the gold embroidery on the hem of her dress, was nicknamed Chrysopous [Golden Foot]."

Eleanor was granted an annulment of her marriage to Louis in 1152 and went on to marry Henry of Anjou as a love match.

In 1154 he became King of England into an illustrious court, introducing art, makeup, romance, and poetry under the influence of her glamorous personality.

Wherever she went, Eleanor challenged tradition, developing the style and sophistication, romance, and chivalry for which the medieval period became famous.

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE

--《THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE》