Iris van Herpen于2018年7月2日在巴黎Le Trianon剧院发布2018 秋冬高定系列“Syntopia(生物与科技的融合)”。
本系列中,设计师Iris van Herpen大胆探索合成生物学以及有机和无极物质交错而诞生的全新领域。
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关于Iris van Herpen
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Iris van Herpen是荷兰著名的女装设计师。她的作品充满未来主义格调,色彩暗沉,极具超凡魅力,在巴黎高级定制时装周上展现得淋漓尽致。
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Van Herpen的设计别出心裁,作品本身堪称艺术。她最早使用3D打印技术,是将3D技术引入时装界的先锋。
“对于我而言,时装是一种艺术表达,与我本人和我的身体紧密相关。我认为时装表达了身份、欲望、心情和文化背景。在我所有的作品中,我试图清晰地传递这样的信息——时装是一种艺术表达,是展览和穿着的艺术,绝不仅仅是只有功能没有内涵的商业化工具。”
Iris van Herpen说
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为此次大秀,Van Herpen与阿姆斯特丹的Studio Drift工作室的两位艺术家Lonneke Gordijn与Ralph Nauta携手合作。
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Lonneke Gordijin 与Ralph Nauta 二人拍档组成的黄金组合合作,创造出一个动能装置艺术品,悬挂于场地的天花板上。
这件艺术品以glass bird (玻璃鸟)的概念设计而成,以隐形的丝线将一排排的玻璃条子串连并吊起,随着时间缓缓移动,视觉上有如time-lapse 慢镜的拍摄效果;在模仿鸟儿拍翼展翅高飞的动态,相当有诗意。
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丝质欧根纱经褶皱效果和液体涂层处理,以不同方向折叠再层叠,将动态放缓,与动力装置的玻璃线条交相辉映。
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“Inside a second”技术将Studio Drift的工艺与鸟儿飞翔的计时摄影线条诠释为数千层双色欧根纱。
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其采用的欧根纱均为激光剪裁,与聚脂薄膜和纯棉热粘衔接,为垂坠赋予延时摄影的效果。
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此系列以历史最为悠久的工艺——编织为起点。在这里,传统编织与先进数码设计编织工艺相互交错,共同谱写“Syntopic”的外套和礼服,通过参数制图将激光剪裁的羊毛织入皮革,突破时间的束缚。
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模特儿的头饰是以一张张透光照片组合而成,直白地演绎出“chronophotography” 的概念。
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雀鸟的声波图是红色胸衣裙装的灵感泉源,laser-cut 的聚酯薄膜、黑色棉布、红色柯根纱与黑色acrylic 物料组成「羽毛」的结构,回应装置艺术的流动感。
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“作为一名曾经的舞者,动态中的转变一直令我神往。在此系列中,我仔细观察了鸟儿飞行的过程与细节,以及在飞行动态中错综复杂的形态。Studio Drift的艺术家和科学家Etienne Jules Marey给了我更多灵感,我开始透过纪实摄影的方式观察服饰的立体剪裁。将时间放缓,定格一瞬,我开始分解普通的织物剪裁,然后将每微秒相互交错层叠,犹如羽毛的层叠排布。”
Van Herpen说道。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i6521308/303332498b2c6716.jpg)
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模特身着裙装,将雀鸟翅膀上羽毛的形态活灵活现于天桥上,随风飘扬。
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设计师Iris van Herpen携模特谢幕
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看完Iris van Herpen整场大秀你是不是也和小编一样心情激动呢?Iris Van Herpen 再次为时尚的未来开辟了新的可能性,启发我们重新思考高订设计的意义。
“如果你是服装设计师或者时尚爱好者,欢迎参加服装设计课程与时尚买手课程!”
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服装系列的策划与搭配
服装/经济/营销的关系
时尚与奢侈品导论
买手采购策略
**品牌形象策略 **
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![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i6521308/cce3436a39a965c9.jpg)
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网红地 | 2018攻略| 家具展
HOAA展览 | 大宅 | 福利
ZAHA HADID | 吴彦祖 | 纪梵希
米兰家具展顶尖家具品牌工厂揭秘系列
BELLOTTI EZIO | ****CARPANELLI
BRIANFORM & IDP | ****FLORENCE ART
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