1200 - 1300
SOCIAL STATEMENTS
Clothing became more voluminous in the 13th century, and men's and women's garments followed the same changes in shape.
Tunic sleeves had tight lower arms, but more fabric around the armhole, and the surcoat (sleeveless overtunic) became a wardrobe staple.
Though cut were still simple and elegantly draped, head wear became more complex.
Women wore hairnets, or wimples (chin bands) and circlets around the head, and men wore small, round caps.
Beards went out; curled hair came in.
Romance poetry with its glamorous ideals of dress and behavior inspired women to walk gracefully with swaying hips or to hold a mantle so as to display a slim waist.
Fabrics were more widely available so the leisured and merchant classes could imitate noble fashions.
Such mimicry of their betters prompted litigation: laws were introduced to control what people at different social levels could wear.
Called sumptuary laws, these regulations were rarely effective.
Elizabethan sumptuary laws
SURVIVING MEDIEVAL CLOTHING
Very little complete medieval clothing has survived.
Some of the best examples date from the 13th century; one such find was of members of the Castilian royal family buried in tombs in the Monasterio de las Huelgas in Burgos,
Spain, dressed in royal garb.
One young prince's grave from 1275 revealed a laced aljuba (tunic), sideless surcoat (right), and a mantle.
The set of matching clothes, called a "robe," is of the finest Moorish silk and gold samite woven with the royal coats of arms of the kingdoms of Castile and leon.
The finds confirm the accuracy of contemporary illuminations and their usefulness as historical records.
The images also bring written descriptions of noble finery to life.
-- 《THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE》
Surviving medieval clothing
公元1200年 - 1300年
社会报告
十三世纪服装变得更加丰富，男装与女装的廓形也同样发生变化。
袍子袖在下手臂处收紧，袖笼周围增加更多面料，与外衣（无袖长炮罩衫）开始成为当时衣橱的主角。
虽然剪裁仍旧简单与优雅垂顺，但头部装饰变得复杂起来。
女性佩戴发网，或者包头巾（下巴包裹带）以及头部圆环，男性则佩戴小圆帽子。
胡须不再流行，卷发成为时尚。
浪漫诗人与其迷人的理想装束和行为，激发了女性摇动臀部优雅行走，或者束起斗篷显示细长的腰部。
面料可用范围更广了，所以闲暇与商人阶层可以模仿贵族的时尚。
这些模仿招来了控诉：以法律来控制不同阶层的人们可以穿什么。
这项称之为禁奢令的法令，却很少起效果。
Surcoat
中世纪服装留存
很少有完整的中世纪服装幸存下来。
有一些最好的样板来自十三世纪；例如一个被发现是卡斯蒂利亚皇室的成员棺木，被埋葬在布尔戈斯的拉斯乌埃尔加斯修道院。
西班牙，皇家装扮。
一位年轻王子的坟墓来自1275年，它展现了一件带绑带的aljuba长袍，无侧边外衣与斗篷。
其中一件配套的服装，叫做“robe法衣“，它是由卡斯蒂利亚-莱昂王国最上乘的摩尔丝绸与金色锦绣织成的带袖皇家外套。
这些发现证实了当代图案花饰的准确性，以及它们作为历史记录的价值。
这些画面同时带来了对皇家优雅装饰生活的书面描述。
Pellote belonging to Don Fernando de la Cerda
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