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“我们不喜欢掩盖瑕疵,我们不喜欢太厚妆容,我们想要一些细纹,一定不能太完美。我们不想自已看着像塑料洋娃娃一样,不想自已看着像带着滤镜的样子!“——法国时尚编缉Camille Charriere
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以上是昨天晚上看了我的时尚偶像钟小姐Alexa Chung对话法国时尚编缉Camille Charriere里的一段采访内容,两个人的性格都超级可爱,节目中Camille谈论了法国的时尚以及他们的价值观,展现了何为法式穿搭,自然免不了被种草一些单品。
尤其是谈到关于价值观这一块,属于法国人骨子里的浪漫,真实,随性对于如今浮躁,追求短暂快乐,颜值至上,宣扬一些扭曲价值观的社会来说无疑是一剂有力的强心剂。弹幕区很多人纷纷表示认同!(对时尚感兴趣的朋友可以去看一下,会有不少收获)
现在一打开小红书等一些社交平台,出来的都是颜值高,身材好,有钱有闲的俊男靓女,再反观自已,好像样样不行不免让人沮丧。殊不知因为平台的推荐机制以及各种滤镜修图的加持下让你误以为世界上好像除了自已谁都美
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前阵子应了法国品牌珑骧LONGCHAMP的邀请参加了他们的新品发布会,听品牌内部朋友说他们此次邀请了差不多100位KOL,红人
到了现场只能说what? 哈哈哈哈哈哈 网上的好颜值,好身材,好品味不见了,只有千篇一律的假脸。只能说网上千篇一律的P图与变美教程让人也美得千篇一律。这也是为什么如今走在街头明明美女很多,但大家依然更怀念8090年代美得各有千秋的香港女明星
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我们在享受趋势带来红利的同时必然会有弊端的裹挟,当审美怪圈用局部的极端标准来框架女性时,要学着对那些强加而来的过度审美要求SAY NO!愿你我都能拥有法国人的那份勇气与真实 哈哈!
好啦!前面我叨叨了这么多,虽然我们可以不用脸蛋好看,身材完美,但穿搭还是可以学的,无形中提升自已的审美与自信心,同时也是个人内核的一种外在表达。
所以让我们一起进入正题吧~
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不知道西服外套对于大家来说是一个怎么样的存在,但在我心理绝对是一个不可或缺的单品,从男装一跟演变过来,如今女性拥有西服的比例反而比男性还高
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但是这里说的西服可不是爸爸年代或者合身得像是房屋中介的老派西装
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毕竟街头时尚与西服融和后已赋予了西服新生命与时髦定义,如果一提到西服你的脑海中第一时间蹦出职场二字,那么亲爱的朋友,今天这编文章更要好好看看啦~因为你印象中的西服已经变得更时尚,风格更多变,更百搭,甚至可以用无孔不入来形容,当然除了天气热 哈哈
首先来说说怎么选西服
关于款式
1.肩
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大家对于垫肩这一词相信已经不陌生了吧!适当的垫肩款可以让你看起来更有power,带一点点阔可以很好修饰溜肩,圆肩,提升整体的气质
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但如果肩本身已经很厚实尽量选选择正肩且垫肩不明显的西装,要不然会让你显得更壮
2.领型
一般来说,西装领型分为平驳领、戗驳领、青果领,无领四种形式
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四种都是比较经典的领型
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但青果领会比较成熟优雅
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想要潮味浓一点的还是选平驳领、戗驳领吧~
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无领被近几年超火的极简品牌toteme、LOW CLASSIC、lemaire等带火,也是我的心头好❤️
大家真的可以去试一试!
3.廓形
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先跟大家科普一下什么是廓形,廓形其实指的是服装正面和侧面的外观轮廓。有H型、T型、Y型、A型、X型、O型等
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相对来说H型出现的频率更高,更适合大家
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X型收腰款会更女人味一点,但没有买好会有过于职业化,老气的嫌疑。所以多选一些潮牌或者大牌版型更精致时尚
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也可以直接选H型西服加一个腰带,更时髦,还能一衣两穿 哈哈
4.设计
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西服的设计已经不再是传统印象中单一的双排扣,单排扣,设计师们努力得玩面料,不规则接拼,解构,绑带,开衩,异形,大甩袖等给西服带来了更新的面孔,但是很多都是给潮人玩的
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初级选手还是建议先一些经典简单结构的西服,可以通过用色彩,其它的一些单品,配饰来提升整体的时髦度哦!
5.颜色
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常见而又百搭的有黑白灰、卡其
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成熟一点有有酒红,墨绿,藏青比较挑气质,没有穿好就会很像老干部
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如果喜欢建议选藏青条纹,颇海军风的味道,更洋气经典。
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格纹绝对是经典不过时的元素,黑白格相对没有那么挑人
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占据色彩界半壁江山的高饱和度亮色21年冬季将继续流行。关于亮色西服如果你对于色彩搭配不是很有把握,建议直接买套装,完整度更高,搭配简单的黑白就哦了!
对了,尽量不要选荧光色系,很可能成为酒吧气氛组,而不是时装周外的秀场潮人
6.面料
西装常见的面料有羊毛、皮料、呢料、灯芯绒、天鹅绒、混纺等
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不一样的用料特性和所呈现的效果都不一样
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看到一些平台科普文说混纺立体感很强,不会皱巴巴的,看起来不精致.其实在表达上有点误区哦,可能不是专业做服装
就我们天天对着面料来说其实混纺是最容易起皱的,一旦折叠很久需要专业熨烫才能平直
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除非你的面料经过特殊工艺处理,面料厚实点,悬垂度够。一般西服买回来我们都会直接做挂装
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羊毛面料延展性与恢复性好,一般皱了挂一挂会直回来,不过要干洗,要不然很容易出现面料收缩,也就是大家口中的越洗越小,还要注意防蛀,优点嘛~大家都知道啦!
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呢料很适合冬季穿,尽量选面料优质一点的,看起来才不会廉价
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皮料比较街头,机能,时尚,是潮人的必备单品。
关于搭配
1.紧身内搭+西装+下搭(内紧外松更性感时髦)
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这个穿搭攻势除了扛冻达人的欧美组外大冬季可能比较适合南方,身材纤细,腰身较好的可以选择一些有设计感的背心,内紧外松在视觉上会弱化宽松外套带来的膨胀感,通过松紧对比显得更精致,性感
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或者搭高领针织衫再搭配一条高腰裤显腿长,想要修饰腿型可以选宽松一点的阔腿裤
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腰长,胯宽,上下比例需要修饰的,老生常谈,选半裙,可以模糊下半身曲线
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腿短星人尽量选短A半裙
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怕冻选一个高筒靴就OK了,高跟的长靴可以说是营造气场的利器了,鞋头不要太圆,会有钝感,尤其是敦实的女同志会让你看起来更笨重,尖头风格太强列的话可以选一些方头鞋
2.衬衫+西装+下搭(百搭单品不会错)
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两个经典的单品搭一起肯定不会错啦~
如果黑白太无聊,可以选一些亮色衬衫或者印花衬衫作为内搭,没错!冬日街头的那一抹亮就是你
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内搭Polo针织衫今年也是超火的一种穿搭,大家可以copy起来
3.卫衣+西装+下搭(休闲运动与正装完全结合)
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今年有个蛮火的新词,叫“Athflow”是Athleisure(运动休闲)和Flow(流动,流行)这两个词的结合,其实就是我们之前说的“运动懒人风”。可能是受疫情宅家时间较长影响,休闲舒适时尚变得受欢迎。
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正式的西装搭配卫衣,帽球帽,运动鞋,慢跑裤一直霸屏
4.连衣裙+西装(百搭公式)
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这个经典的公式就不用多说了,关键裙子的花色要选对,很多朋友会搭配短款连衣裙,裙长很重要,尽量比西装长一丢丢,视觉上更有层次感
5.西装+外套 (叠穿层次感强+保暖)
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西服再时髦寒冷的冬日也不足以抗寒,这时直接加一件外套吧,时尚又保暖
今天的分享就到这里啦~最近新增了一些关注与赞赏,也有来找我做造型,感谢朋友们的认可与鼓励,这也将成为我走下去的动力!
转眼11月份,21年也将近尾声,愿大家一切安好!
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下期见~
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