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#每天读一点服装史# FASHION RESTORED

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION RESTORED

作者: 末小闲 | 来源:发表于2017-06-28 07:00 被阅读0次

    FASHION RESTORED

    The restoration of the English monarchy in 1660 signaled the dawn of a new age of prosperity for the English aristocracy,

    which was reflected in the fashions of the time.

    Charles II was self-indulgent and foppish, and his courtiers soon followed suit.

    Despite their extravagances, English nobles took an interest in charitable causes, such as the one depicted in the painting.

    The Tichborne Dole, opposite, in which the Lord of the Manor in the village of Tichborne distributes bread to the poor.

    This painting showcases the lavish fashions worn by the noble class, in contrast with those worn by the less fortunate.

    The central male figure in the middle ground wears a long and ornate waistcoat, fastened with close-set buttons from throat to hem, underneath a plainer coat.

    This was one of the many fashions introduced by Charles II.

    The figure also wears an elaborate lace cravat and a perwig, an indispensable part of wealthy fashionable attire.

    Shoes are high heeled and square toed.

    The two women to his left show female fashions of the day.

    Their bodices, with a horizontal decolletage, are long, pointed, and fastened in the front with jeweled clasps.

    They wear full-puffed sleeves to the elbows, and their skirts are gathered at the hips in tight pleats, opening down the front over an ornate petticoat.

    Their bodice and skirts are joined, but poorer women would wear them separately, in different colors.

    Skirts were raised - to the toe for court women and to the instep for peasant women.

    Though the women use stays, the overall effect is one of increasing freedom.

    "THE KING HATH IN COUNCIL DECLARED HIS RESOLUTION OF SETTING A FASHION FOR CLOTHES, WHICH HE WILL NEVER ALTER.

    IT WILL BE A VEST, I KNOW NOT WELL HOW, BUT IT IS TO TEACH THE NOBILITY THRIFT, AND WILL DO GOOD."

    -- SAMUEL PEPYS, OCTOBER 8, 1666

    Two women show fashions of the day.

    带回时尚

    1660年英国君主制的恢复标志着一个新的英国贵族的繁荣时代到来,这些都体现在时代的流行中。

    查尔斯二世是自我放纵与浮华的,他的臣仆紧跟他的穿着。

    虽然他们挥霍无度,英国贵族却对慈善事业很感兴趣,就像图中描绘的那样。

    蒂奇伯恩救济图,展示了蒂奇伯恩村的庄园主分发面包给穷人。

    这幅画展示了贵族阶层奢侈时尚的穿着,与不幸贫民的服饰成对比。

    在广场中央出现的中心人物男性,穿着一件长而华丽的背心,密集的按扣从喉咙处到下摆排列,底下是一件相对简单的外套。

    这是查尔斯二世带来的众多时尚之一。

    这个人物戴穿着一条精美蕾丝围巾与一顶假发,这些都是富人时尚服装不可或缺的部分。

    鞋子是高跟与方头的。

    他左边的两个女人显示了当时的女性时尚。

    她们的胸衣,开横向的低领,身型长而尖,并且前胸以宝石环扣固定。

    她们的蓬蓬袖长到肘部,裙子打着细细的褶子聚集在臀部上,前面开口露出华丽的衬裙。

    上身与下身裙连接一体,但贫民将两者分开来穿,并且颜色也与富人不同。

    裙长被提升了,宫廷女性长到脚趾,农民妇女长到脚背。

    虽然女性时尚变化不大,但总体自由度还是提升了。

    The tichborne dole by Gillis van tiborgh in 1671.

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