烧烤本身也成为一种多人聚会休闲娱乐方式或者是生意。不论在中国还是整个亚洲、美洲和欧洲,烧烤通常是小至家庭,大至学校的集体活动以及一些公司组织的集体活动。
barbecue指得是美味的户外烧烤,也泛指朋友间的露天聚会,是一个大家可以聚在一起闲聊、野餐的好机会。
那么,这个听起来、吃起来都很不错的barbecue的背后会有怎样的故事呢?
据说,曾经有个农场主把他的牛都打上了Bar-B-Q字样的烙印,后来人们烧烤那些牛肉时发现了这个标志,从此barbecue就流传开了。
还有一种比较可信的说法是,barbecue源于海地单词barbacoa,可能是泰诺人(西印度群岛一支已绝种的印地安人)使用的语言。这个词起初仅仅表示由树桩支撑起来的木制平台,通常被西印度群岛人用做睡觉的床和烤大块肉时用的烤架。
barbecue于1697年首次出现在英国,表示“床”和“烤架”的意思。到了十八世纪中期,发展为今天我们常用的含义,即“社交野餐会”和“烧烤设备、烤肉”。
顺便提一句,如果自家后院的烧烤聚会演变为一场混乱的浩劫,你可能会想到buccaneer这个词。对了,buccaneer就是海盗,和barbecue有很深的渊源。在加勒比海图皮人的印地安语里,mukem和barbecue意思相同,而法国殖民者将其转化为boucanier,表示在户外火堆上弄食物的流浪者。这些boucaniers 也经常抢劫或进行其他违法活动。到大约十七世纪末, buccaneer最后成为英语词汇,表示在加勒比海出没的海盗。
BBQ,网络流行词,Barbecue的英文缩写,该词最早来源于法国海盗,意思是户外烧烤。
在美国、英国等地,大学生们经常几个人一伙,开着车去到一个风景优美的地方,尽情享受“BBQ”。
这是一种有趣的烹饪方式,有点像中国新疆的烤羊肉串。BBQ一般是在户外进行。人们外出时一般是将木炭放在烧烤台上,然后用火将木炭点燃,再将金属编成的烧烤架放在木炭上方,然后将生鱼、肉等食品放置在烧烤架上并在食物上涂抹一些酱油和辣椒面等调料。在西方国家,当人们在户外举行野餐或外出露营时,烧烤是较为流行的一种烹饪方式。在澳大利亚和新西兰的圣诞party上,BBQ也十分常见。这种方式常常被用于家庭野外散心。有考据指烧烤的英文名称barbecue这个字(俗称BBQ)有可能是来自加勒比海。从前法国海盗来到加勒比海,在岛上会把整只宰好的羊从胡须到屁股(de la barbe au cul)放在烤架上烤熟后进食,这个食物简称 barbe-cul (法文cul 字末尾的“l”不发声),演变成barbecue这个字,更由于cue的和英文字母Q同音,便变成了barbeque,后来更简写为BBQ。中国的BBQ
在中国食品方面,有一种叫烧味类,包括:烧鹅、豉油鸡、烧肉、叉烧等等,不是食客自己即烧即食的一类烧烤,但是英文也是叫作BBQ。
2017年12月1日起正式实施的《公共服务领域英文译写规范》规定,在公共服务领域中,烧烤译为Grill(在平底锅里烤)或Barbecue(直接在火上烤)。中国的烧烤来历:
barbecue
UK [ˈbɑːbɪkjuː]
US [ˈbɑːrbɪkjuː]
n.
(户外烧烤用的)烤架;户外烧烤
v.
(在烤架上)烤,烧烤
高考 · 考研 · IELTS · TOEFL · TEM8 · GRE
复数:barbecues第三人称单数:barbecues现在进行时:barbecuing过去式:barbecued过去分词:barbecued
grill
UK [ɡrɪl]
US [ɡrɪl]
n.
(炊具、烤炉内的)烤架
roast duck
UK [rəʊst dʌk]
US [roʊst dʌk]
烤鸭
1、在中国食品方面,有一种叫烧味类,包括:烧鹅、豉油鸡、烧肉、叉烧等等,不是食客自己即烧即食的一类烧烤,但是英文也是叫作BBQ。中国饮食、烹饪经过了四个发展阶段,其中是:火烹、石烹、水烹、油烹,火烹最原始的操作方法就是烧、烤。
2、烤有两种解释:一是使东西着火燃烧,例如烧火、烧木柴等;二是用火或者是发热的东西使物品受热其变化,例如烧水、烧炭等。第二层意思是一种深引,一种烹饪的烧。烧烤包含:熏、烘烤、烙,烤肉在烧烤中占重要的内容。
由于将肉类烘烤时会产生烟雾,常见的烧烤都是在户外进行。但不少餐厅也发展出室内烧烤的用餐型式,在亚洲如日本、韩国和中国台湾等地,称之为烧肉店也叫烤肉店,也就是在室内每人座位前有建在桌子当中的烧烤架或烤盘,放上木炭或用气灶和电烤炉,架上网架或栏架、烤盘或烤炉让消费者自行将生肉或者生的食物烤熟的方式。虽然主要指烘烤肉类,但今日可烘烤的食材相当多种,可说是任何食材包括有蔬菜、水果等都可以烘烤,亚洲常见的还有豆腐、香菇、青椒等都是烧烤时常见的。烤肉在烧烤中占重要的内容。考古专家在鲁南临沂市内五里堡村出土的一座东汉晚期画像石残墓中发现两方刻有烤肉串的画像石,经研究发现这两幅画中所见的人物形象皆汉人,他们烤的肉串是牛羊肉串。这两幅庖厨图反映出1800年前鲁南民间饮食风俗。烧烤新石器时代至先秦时,烤与炙、燔、烧是相同的。随着烹饪的进步,虽然出现了水烹、油烹法,但烤法并没有消失,还多了许多花样。发展至今,已有了白烤、泥烤、糊泥烤、串烤、红烤、腌烤、酥烤、挂糊烤、面烤、叉烤、钩吊烤、箅烤、明炉烤、暗炉、铁锅烤、烤箱烤、竹筒烤、篝火烤等多种多样的烤法,显示出烧烤的美味,对于人们来讲是具有极大的诱惑力和吸引力。
国内很多城市都有自己特有的烧烤方式,烤盘、铁板、铁网、长条形炉架,多数都是炭火,地域不同用的碳也是不一样的。轮口味来说感觉北方的烧烤比较讲究,配料、腌制、搅拌、都是很有说道的。例如专门为烧烤调配的蘸料,和拌肉类放的孜然,都是非常特殊的。
https://amazingribs.com/barbecue-history-and-culture/barbecue-sauce-history
Barbecue History And Culture
By Meathead Goldwyn
BBQ. Barbecue. Barbeque. Bar B Que. No matter how you spell it, it is a phenomenon that has a fanatic following in all areas of the country and around the world. Barbecue is basic to cooking. Meat sizzling over open flame or slowly cooked in smoke. In this section you will learn where it all began and how people in different regions practice this ancient art.
Barbecue History
By Meathead Goldwyn
Contrary to mythology, barbecue was not an American invention. Barbecue is older than homo sapiens and anthropologists even think that it was mastery of fire that permanently altered our evolutionary path and it is this primeval link that makes us still love cooking over flame.
"The story of barbecue is the story of America. Settlers arrive on great unspoiled continent. Discover wondrous riches. Set them on fire and eat them."
Vince Staten, Real Barbecue
Around one million years ago Homo erectus, the homonid just before Neanderthal man, first tasted cooked meat.
Nobody knows for sure, but here's how I think it happened: A tribe of these proto-humans were padding warily through the warm ashes of a forest fire following their noses to a particularly seductive scent. When they stumbled upon the charred carcass of a wild boar they squatted and poked their hands into its side. They sniffed their fragrant fingers, then licked the greasy digits. The magical blend of warm protein, molten fat, and unctuous collagen in roasted meat is a narcotic elixir and it addicted them on first bite. They became focused, obsessed with tugging and scraping the bones clean, moaning, and shaking their heads. The sensuous aromas made their nostrils smile and the fulsome flavors caused their mouths to weep. Before long mortals were making sacrifices and burnt offerings to their gods, certain the immortals would like to try their heavenly recipes.
Cooking makes it easier for animals to extract energy from food. That meant that there were more calories available for larger brains, which of course was an evolutionary advantage. It also took much much less time to eat, leaving time to hunt, socialize and form tribes and communities, and procreate.
Evolution favored traits that enhanced the ability of these early homonids to hunt and eat cooked meat: Smaller hips and flatter feet for running speed, better hand articulation, communication skills, and smaller jaws. Eventually they learned to domesticate dogs to help with the hunt, and then they learned to herd and husband the animals that tasted best. The family circle and tribal structure evolved so that men became hunters and women became cooks. Ergo, the first pitmasters were probably women.
In 2007 Israeli scientists at University of Haifa uncovered evidence that early humans living in the area around Carmel, about 200,000 years ago were serious about barbecue. From bone and tool evidence, these early hunters preferred large mature animals and cuts of meat that had plenty of flesh on them. They left heads and hooves in the field. Three of their favorites were an ancestor of cattle, deer, and boars. From burn marks around the joints and scrape marks on the bones, there is evidence that these cave dwellers knew how to cook.
Early barbecue cooking implements will likely never be found because they were probably made of wood. The first meats were probably just tossed into a wood infereno.
They quickly learned that the food tasted better if the food was held above or to the side of the fire. According to barbecue historian Dr. Howard L. Taylor, the first cooking implements were almost certainly "a wooden fork or spit to hold the meat over the fire.
Eventually they built racks of green sticks to hold the food above the flames, and learned that the temperature was easier to regulate and the flavor better if the if they let the logs burn down to coals before the meat was put in place.
Spit roasting is common around the world and for many years was the major barbecue cooking method. Baking an animal, vegetables, or bread in a hot pit in the ground was also an early development. Wooden frames were later used to hold meat over the fire, but they often held the meat well above the fire to keep the wood from burning, which resulted in the meat cooking slowly and absorbing smoke. The gridiron [similar to a grate on a modern grill] was developed soon after the Iron Age started, which led to grilling as we know it. Iliad, Book IX, Lines 205-235 and The Odyssey, Book III, lines 460-468 mention spits and five-pronged forks used to roast meat, basted with salt and wine at outdoor feasts in ancient Greece. Such feasts at the end of a battle or long march were common throughout history." Below is a grill from the Stoö of Attalus Museum in Athens in a photo by Giovanni Dall'Orto. It is estimated to be from sometime between the 4th and 6th century BCE.
Smoked foods not only tasted swell, they kept longer. We now know this is because there are antimicrobial compounds in smoke, because smoke drove off flies, and because slow smoking dehydrated foods and bacteria need moisture to grow. In the days before refrigeration, smoking, drying, and salting meat were clever strategies for preserving perishable foods. This allowed hunting tribes to make a kill and, unlike other animals, they did not have to gorge themselves before the prey spoiled. If they were migratory, they could smoke, dry, and salt foods and take it on the road with them.
Barbecue and the Bible
The Hebrew Old Testament contains what may be the first detailed plans for the design of a barbecue. In Exodus, chapter 27, probably written somewhere between 1300 and 1500 years before Christ was born, after Moses brings down the 10 Commandments, he tells his flock that God wants them to construct a tabernacle with an ark for the Covenant and an altar for burnt offerings of animals.
It stood about 4 1/2 feet high about 7 1/2 feet long, contained fleshooks, firepans, ash pans, shovels, basins, a grate, and tie downs to attach the animal before the sacrifice. Like today's big rigs, it was portable. It did not have wheels, but poles on each side so it could be carried by hand.
In chapter 29 there are instructions of how to prepare the sacrifice of a young bull and two rams and describes the process as "a sweet savour, an offering made by fire unto the Lord." Apparently the scent was all the Lord wanted because Aaron, Moses' brother and the priest in charge, and his associates, were allowed to eat much of the sacrifice.
Leviticus 1 starts to sound like a cookbook with instructions for slaughtering and preparing burnt offerings of a bull, turtledoves, pigeons, sheep, goats, fruits, corn, and bread as well as the laws for kosher eating. They were instructed to take an unblemished animal (apparently their Lord appreciated quality meat), remove the kidneys and the fat on them, and the caul fat above the liver (the best fat on the animal) and burn it. No cheap cuts for this god!
China, India, and Japan
Many scholars think techniques for low and slow smoke roasting began in China where some early kitchens had special devices for smoking meats. A wonderful speculation on the discovery of the delights of fire-roasted pork was penned by the English essayist and humorist Charles Lamb in 1822. He tells of the Chinese peasant Bo-bo who, long long ago, accidentally burned down his father's cottage and the pigs within. Bo-bo not only discovers barbecue, but then embarks on a career of arson, burning down the neighborhood one cottage at a time to sate his hunger for roast pork. Click here to read Lamb's tale, "A Dissertation Upon Roast Pig."
In ancient China, India, and Japan, food has been cooked over coals in ceramic urns for thousands of years. In India they are called tandoors, and in Japan they are called kamados. Here is one from China. Click the link to learn more and see some of the many popular modern kamados. Here is an ancient Chinese ceramic charcoal oven still in use cooking buns stuck to the wall of the oven. Indians cook their bread, naan, the same way.
Old World influences
In Europe, artists have painted pictures of barbecues since pig hair bristles were first wrapped around a stick to make a brush. The ox roast in the painting below took place in Bologna, Italy in the 1531.
Early cooks learned quickly that flavor, tenderness, and juiciness were related to how foods were cooked and how long. Museums are full of clever gadgets built to improve palatability. Cooking in open fireplaces over wood and with plenty of smoke was commonplace, and all manner of clever iron grids, reflectors, and rotating devices were developed.
Here is an elaborate clockwork rotisserie mechanism mounted in a fireplace that I photographed in a 13th century castle in Europe. The cook would turn a handle that would wind a weighted cable around an axle. The weight would slowly descend and the mechanism would slowly rotate the food above the coals. Leonardo da Vinci invented one. He also invented one with a fan in the flue that turned with the rising hot air and it turned the spit.
England has long been a nation of beefeaters, and in the Middle Ages they were devoted to cooking over flame and sneered at roasting in an oven. Cranking the rotisserie by hand usually fell to young boy until somebody had the a bright idea. The "turnspit dog" was first mentioned in print in 1576, and the concept became so popular that many homes and inns installed a system. Breeders even created a canine especially designed for the task with short legs, perhaps an ancestor of the corgie. The breed is extinct, but the Abergavenny Museum in Wales has a stuffed Canis vertigus on display.
Not many dog powered turnspits are left, but there's a beauty in a restored 1700s Georgian pub in The George Inn in Wiltshire, near Bath. There is at least one other dogtisserie at Number One Royal Crescent in Bath. The picture above of a Turnspit dog hard at work in Newcastle is from the book, Remarks on a Tour to North and South Wales by Henry Wigstead published in 1799.
The international gastronomic society, Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is based on the traditions and practices of professional French meat roasters. Their written history has been traced back to 1248. King Louis XII awarded them an official coat of arms in 1610. It consists of two crossed turning spits and four larding needles, surrounded by flames of the hearth on a shield encircled by fleur-de-lis and a chain representing the mechanism used to turn the spit. Today's Kansas City Barbeque Society is in some way, a cousin of the Chaîne.
Somewhere along the way someone invented the smokehouse. I'm guessing it was an early cook trying to escape from the rain, so he hung some skins over the fireplace and huddled beneath. Eventually it evolved into an something like this Alaskan smokehouse from the National Museum of the American Indian, Smithsonian Institution, by Dr. Leuman M. Waugh, 1935. It was a simple sapling frame, a pitched roof of sticks covered in skins, with beams to hang the salmon filets. Drawings of smokehouses like this go back centuries.
Grilled and smoked meats, especially pork and sausage, are deeply woven into German and Czech culinary traditions, and this influence is particularly strong in the Carolina and Texas barbecue traditions where their immigrants settled. Above is an excerpt from a painting from the 1600s by an unknown Flemish artist titled "Hier wird um wenig geld" ("Here, for little money"). It shows a women selling grilled vegetables outdoors, one of the first representations of a grill I have seen.
Spain and New World barbacoa
Let's make up for an injustice. Nobody gives the Spanish Empire proper credit for its role in laying the foundation for modern American barbecue. Their aggressive exploration and exploitation of the Caribbean, the Southeastern corner of North America, Mexico, Central America, South America, and the Philippeans brought cattle, hogs, sheep, goats and European foodways, including spit roasting, to the New World. Some gastrohistorians have remarked that more than the Spanish, hogs conquered the New World because they became so popular with Amerindians and settlers. And while they were at it the conquistadors brought disease and slavery to their conquests, decimating huge populations.
On the way home the adventurers brought back gold, tomatoes, potatoes, corn, chile peppers, chocolate, and more (see sidebar). But right here we see the basic ingredients of contemporary American, Mexican, and other cuisines, including modern barbecue. They also brought back the Taino Indian word and design for the barbacoa.
In 1492 Christopher Columbus made the first of his four voyages from Spain to the New World landing on the island he called Hispaniola, known today as the Dominican Republic and Haiti, and then went on to Cuba, and the Bahamas. On his first voyage he coined perhaps the oldest bromide in culinary literature. In his diary he wrote of seeing a "serpent" about six feet long that was probably an iguana. His men killed it, ate it, and he remarked that "the meat is white and tastes like chicken."
Over the next 11 years he came back three more times and set foot on numerous Caribbean islands, Central America, and even northern South America. His tales of the strange new universe, its people, animals, foods, and riches, launched a flurry of explorations by Spanish conquistadors as well as French and English adventurers.
On his second voyage he is believed to have stopped in the Canary Islands off the coast of Africa and picked up 20 to 30 cattle, mostly pregnant females descended from Portuguese and Spanish stock brought there a few decades earlier. Within three weeks they were grazing contentedly on the lush greenery of Hispanola and within a few years conquistadors brought them to Mexico where vaqueros, Mexican predecessors of cowboys, drove them north to Texas.
The people they encountered in the Caribbean were unfortunately called Indians since Columbus had been seeking a route to India. They were members of Arawak tribe, a sub tribe called Taino, and further north in the Bahamas, Lucayans. I shall call them Amerindians to avoid confusion.
According to an email from barbecue historian Dr. Howard Taylor "Oviedo is reputed to be a reliable source for translation from these American Indian dialects into Spanish because of his dedication to accuracy and experience as Chronicler to Charles V of Spain. Arawak tribes and dialects of the Arawak language were widely distributed across the West Indies, Central America, and Northern South America."
Of course we will never know precisely what the Taino word was since they had no writing system. I'm guessing it only sounded like barbacoa to the Conquistadors since people usually mispronounce foreign language words. Nobody will ever know for sure, but barbacoa, especially the "-oa" at the end, sounds mighty Spanish to me. Other European explorers reported home that natives in northern South America, especially Guiana, may have called their version of the barbacoa a babracot or babricot or barboka. These are possibly dialects of the many tribal languages or further clumsy attempts to mimick the native words.
During the European explorations of the 1500s Arawak tribes were not native to areas now in the United States, but some Arawak tribes moved into southern Florida during the mid-to-late 1600s. "Florida" which was the Spanish name for all the land they claimed, extending north through modern Virginia and even into New York and west through Louisiana. The English did not arrive in Jamestown, VA, until 1607, and the French did not settle in New Orleans until 1690. Present day Florida was populated with many different tribes, among them the Timucua, Apalachee, Calusa, Tocobaga, Ais, Mayaca, and Hororo, and most of them had adapted the barbacoa and accounts of other explorers show it in use by other tribes far north and west.
In fact, the engraving above shows a barbacoa used by Amerindians in the mid 1580s in what is today North Carolina. It was done by the European engraver and publisher Theodor de Bry and based on a watercolor by a settler, John White. Similar illustrations were made in the 1560s by the first European artist in North America, Miles Harvey and in 1564 by Jacques le Moyne. Note the smoke in the illustration above and the two fish cooking with indirect heat off to the left. The smoke not only cooked the fish, it kept away flies and animals, and preserved it for storage.
The barbacoa however, was the name for a wooden rack, not just a cooking device, because other early explorers described similar devices being used to store food above the damp ground and out of reach of animals, as well as a bed for sleeping above the snakes and insects. Oviedo described "a loft made with canes, which they build to keep their maize in, which they call a barbacoa." According to the Historical Dictionary of Cuba Second Edition by Jaime Suchlicki, the Ciboney Indians of Cuba even called their primitive dwellings barbacoa. The Bishop of Cuba, Gabriel Diaz Vara Calderon in 1675 wrote after a 10 month journey through Florida "They sleep on the ground, and in their houses only on a frame made of reed bars, which they call barbacoa, with a bear skin laid upon it and without any cover, the fire they build in the center of the house serving in place of a blanket."
A French explorer describes a cooking barbacoa here: "A Caribbee has been known, on returning home from fishing, fatigued and pressed with hunger, to have the patience to wait the roasting of a fish on a wooden grate fixed two feet above the ground over a fire so small as sometimes to require the whole day to dress it." That's low and slow cooking, folks.
In this photo above we see a barbacoa portrayed in a diorama I saw at the Field Museum of Natural History in Chicago. Made in 1920 it is said to portray native Americans in the Chicago area, so if it is accurate, this concept was not just Carribean.
In 1521 Juan Ponce de Leon made his second visit to the land he named La Florida in 1513. The first trip was exploratory. This time he came to colonize and brought with him 200 men including farmers, craftsmen, horses, cattle and other farm animals, and farming tools. The landed near what is today Ft. Meyers on the Southwest coast. The expedition was expelled by natives, de Leon was hit by an arrow, and he died shortly thereafter. But some scholars think some of the cattle remained behind where they were no doubt utilized by the locals.
The DeSoto National Memorial in Bradenton, FL, not far from the place where the Spanish explorer is believed to have landed in 1539 with 400 soldiers, horses, and 300 hogs, the first to inhabit North America, has a small replica barbacoa on display. DeSoto also had with him 2,500 pork shoulders, probably packed in barrels with salt. Bacon was well known and likely came with the explorer.
The first to describe the use of the barbacoa for cooking was Hans Stade, a German in the service of Portugal captured by tribes in Brazil in 1547. He escaped and returned to Europe in 1555. His 1557 book "True History" included woodcuts he supervised showing a barbacoa. Here's how he described the device, which he did not name "When they want to cook any food, flesh or fish, which is to last some time, they put it four spans high above the fire-place, upon rafters, and make a moderate fire underneath, leaving it in such a manner to roast and smoke, until it becomes quite dry. When they afterwards would eat thereof, they boil it up again and eat it, and such meat they call Mockaein." His accounts include use of the device for cooking human flesh. Incidentally, there are credible accounts of cannibalism in Europe, too.
The first recorded barbecue in the Southeastern US may have featured human flesh. In April 1528, Panfilo de Narváez set out with 400 men and 80 horses from Cuba to explore Florida and search for gold. They landed in the Tampa Bay area and foolishly lost contact with their ships. They were quickly set upon by hostiles and tried to retreat by building boats and sailing for Panuco on the east coast of Mexico in New Spain. A few made it to Texas and over the course of about 2 years their numbers dwindled to 4, among them Cabeza de Vaca. Navarez perished at sea. In spring of 1536, the party made it to the Spanish settlement of San Miguel de Culiacán on the lower San Lorenzo River.
While they were lost, the Spanish governor of Cuba sent out a search party that also ran into trouble. One member of the party, Juan Ortiz was captured by the Ozita tribe. They decided to sacrifice him by torture and tied him to a barbacoa-like device. The chief's daughter took pity on the slowly roasting man and convinced his father to release him. Ortiz was not flipped, so he was permanently scarred on his back. Ortiz lived for years with the tribe until he was rescued by a party led by a fellow Spaniard, the explorer and conquistador Hernando de Soto (shown here). Ortiz joined de Soto as an interpreter.
After helping conquer the Incas in Central America, de Soto had sailed from Cuba to Tampa Bay in 1539. He brought about 650 men, many horses, dogs, and Spanish hogs, which were not native to the continent. He then set out exploring and pillaging what is now the Southeast of the US.
According to Charles Hudson's 1998 book Knights of Spain, Warriors of the Sun: Hernando De Soto and the South's Ancient ChiefdomsPlaceholder, on March 25, 1540 a party of about 40 Spaniards led by de Soto invaded a village in what is now Georgia and found venison and turkey smoke roasting on a barbacoa-like device. Although the word had not been brought north by Indians yet, DeSoto called it a barbacoa because he had probably heard the word in Spain. Famished from a 35 hour ride, despite the fact that it was Holy Thursday, they feasted on the first barbacoa in recorded history.
On May 17, 1540, according to Hudson, they enjoyed another meal cooked on a barbacoa near present day Salisbury, NC: Corn and small dogs.
According to Faulkner's County: The Historical Roots of Yoknapatawpha, 1540-1962 By Don Harrison Doyle, in December 1540, near what is now Tupelo, Mississippi, de Soto collaborated with the Chickasaw tribe on a feast featuring pork from Spain cooked on a barbacoa. The Chickasaws loved their pork barbecue (can you blame them?) and even stole hogs from DeSoto. The Spanish adopted the cooking method and refined it.
They also riffed on it. Somewhere, somehow, in Mexico and Texas, barbacoa came to mean wrapping a cow's head with leaves and burying it in a pit lined with hot rocks. This technique is still used in Mexico and as far away as Hawaii, but not many practitioners use the traditional cow's head. One survivor is Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que in Brownsville, TX. That's Armando “Mando” Vera, above, with the pit which holds the heads for about 12 hours. Founded in 1955, in 2020 the James Beard Foundation recognized Vera's with an "American Classics Award". Cheek meat is the most popular and it is used for tacos.
Eventually the method of cooking found its way north to the English colonies in Virginia and the Carolinas where they doused the meat with a favorite condiment from home, vinegar. Vinegar remains the major ingredient of most sauces in Eastern North Carolina and South Carolina to this day. German settlers were fond of mustard on their pork so the classic mustard based barbecue sauce of South Carolina evolved.
The first big barbecue in Texas, according to Taylor, "Was probably held on April 30, 1598, near San Elizario on the Rio Grande, about 30 miles Southeast of El Paso, TX. The leader of the later celebration was Juan de Onate." Natives were present, and it was a traditional, religious, outdoors feast that included spit roasted wild game and birds and native vegetables in addition to the usual salted pork, hard biscuits and red wine from Spain.
According to etymologist Michael Quinion, William Dampier, in his New Voyage Round the World of 1699, used the word in English for the first time to describe a raised wooden sleeping platform that protected Indians from snakes: "And lay there all night, upon our Borbecu's, or frames of Sticks, raised about 3 foot from the Ground." One can assume there was no fire beneath. According to Quinion, the Dictionary of National Biography describes Dampier as a "buccaneer, pirate, circumnavigator, captain in the navy, and hydrographer." Ironic that the first to use the word in English should be described as a buccaneer since that occupation comes from the French word boucan, "which in turn comes from mukem, a word used by a group of Brazilian Indians, the Tupi, for a wooden framework on which meat was dried."
1693年,法国人让·B·罗伯特(Jean B. Labot)在撰写《美式航行新群岛》时,描述了一种烤全猪,猪肚子里面塞满了芳香药草和香料,烤好肚皮,然后涂上融化的黄油酱、辣椒和鼠尾草,据他所说这是一种从法国家乡流传到北美洲的烹调技术,可能是奴隶和克里奥尔人通过法属西印度群岛传入新世界的。直到现在,这款配方在一些家庭自制的德克萨斯烧烤酱汁中仍然可以找到。
随着历史的推进,在法国黄油汁与醋的基础上,德国的芥末、墨西哥的辣酱、中国的生姜、日本的照烧酱等外来风味,也不断被吸收到美式烧烤酱配方中。
今天我们整理出 10 款经典美式烧烤酱料,并附上完整配方,它们各自代表着不同州的烧烤风格,也见证着世界各地美食文化在北美土地的融合过程,希望这些跨越山海和历史的有趣故事,能给你新的启发。
醋酱
起源
北卡罗莱纳州东部
特点
口感薄而锋利,能直接降低烤肉的油腻感
搭配
猪肉、排骨
北卡罗来纳州东部的烧烤酱,与这里的殖民历史息息相关,据说是由最早苏格兰定居者的非洲奴隶带来的,因此这种以醋和辣椒简单调和而成的酱汁也被认为是美国“最古老的烧烤酱料”。
由于醋制酱的配料极为简单,所以风味反而很强烈,能够直抵味蕾的敏感地带,唤醒食欲,同时相比于浓稠的酱料,这种酱汁更具有渗透性,可以用来腌制生肉,也可以刷在烤熟的肉上提味。当地的烧烤一般是将“整头猪”烤熟,再取下不同部位的肉切碎,或切成薄片,混合成一盘“大杂烩”,直接佐酱食用。
完整配方
配料
蒸馏醋(½ 杯)、黑胡椒粉(2 茶匙)、红辣椒碎(1 茶匙)、盐(1 汤匙)
制作步骤
将所有配料放入广口瓶中,摇匀,静置至少 12 小时。
甜辣酱汁
起源
德克萨斯州
特点
浓度较低,一般用于刷在烤肉表皮
搭配
牛肉
对德克萨斯州烤肉文化影响最深的两大元素,一个是欧洲移民带来的烟熏技术,另一个就是墨西哥人的调味方式。
美洲辣椒粉和大量的黑胡椒、辣酱油等,构成了墨西哥裔美国人钟爱的热辣口感,同时他们不喜欢像美国北方人那样制作黏稠的酱料,于是尽量稀释,传统的德州烤肉汁甚至像汤一样稀。后来,受堪萨斯城调味料的影响,越来越红和甜。
完整配方
配料
孜然(1 茶匙)、美洲辣椒粉(1 汤匙)、黑胡椒(1 茶匙)、辣酱油(2 汤匙)、蕃茄酱(½ 杯)、糖(½ 杯)、水(½ 杯)
制作步骤
将所有配料放入锅中,小火煮沸,即可关火,冷却后直接用于烤肉调味。
酸甜酱
起源
孟菲斯
特点
味道酸甜平衡,解腻开胃
搭配
烤肋排
作为美国四大地域烧烤风格之一,孟菲斯烧烤最大的特点就是在烹调前不用酱油等液体腌料腌制,而是干擦上盐和香料后,直接入烤炉熏烤,烤好以后再佐湿酱料吃。
简易的烤制法使烤肋排肉质干香,原汁原味得以凸显,所以在蘸料的调配上,馥郁而平衡的酸甜酱尤其适合。
完整配方
配料
植物油(1 汤匙)、洋葱碎(½ 杯)、大蒜(4 瓣,切碎)、盐(½ 茶匙)、蕃茄酱(2 杯)、黄芥末酱(⅓ 杯)、苹果醋(⅓ 杯)、辣椒粉(1 汤匙)、黑胡椒(1 汤匙)、芹菜籽(½ 茶匙)、蜜糖(⅓ 杯)、红糖(⅓ 杯)、伍斯特酱汁(2 汤匙)
制作步骤
在平底锅中下入洋葱、大蒜、盐,中低火炒 5 分钟,下入其他配料煮制 15 分钟,直至酱料浓稠,即可关火。
塔塔酱
起源
佛罗里达州
特点
质地清爽,提升烤鱼的鲜美
搭配
烤鱼
塔塔酱,与法国的蛋黄酱属于同一家族,都是以鸡蛋、油、醋加香料组成的,这种历史可以追溯到中世纪的古老酱料,与烤鱼堪称绝配,被以烤鱼为重要食物的加勒比海地区和佛罗里达州应用并不奇怪。
佛罗里达人烤鱼的手法和孟菲斯烤排骨如出一辙,也是干擦香料直接烤,烤好之后再拌上稀薄的塔塔酱、蛋黄酱、奶油奶酪。
完整配方
配料
蛋黄酱(½ 杯)、葱头碎(1 汤匙)、葱末(1 汤匙)、咸菜碎(1 汤匙)、刺山柑碎(2 茶匙)、龙蒿杆(1 茶匙)、全谷物粗粮(½ 茶匙)、盐(适量)、胡椒粉(适量)
制作步骤
将所有配料混合均匀,移入罐中,在冰箱中冷藏数小时至味道融合。
亚洲风味酱
起源
加利福尼亚
特点
将经典美国食材与传统亚洲风味结合,融合而百搭
搭配
通用于各种烤物
曾有美食作家说过:“列举‘加州美食’要比定义‘加州美食’容易得多。”一语道出加利福尼亚州美食种类和饮食文化的多样性。15 万平方英里的土地,绵延 850 英里、横亘 15 个纬度的海岸线,以及多山的地势,让这里的农业生产千姿百态。再加上来自南美、欧洲、亚洲各地的新移民不断涌入,更是让加州的饮食越来越多元与融合。
当生姜、酱油、香油这些典型的东方风味代表,融入美式烧烤酱时,十有八九可以确定——它出自加利福尼亚州。
完整配方
配料
蕃茄酱(2 杯)、第戎芥末酱(½ 杯)、红糖(½ 杯)、米醋(½ 杯)、姜末(2 汤匙)、葱末(½ 杯)、辣椒(½ 杯)、酱油(1 茶匙)、香油(1 茶匙)
制作步骤
将所有配料倒入锅中,慢火加热并不时搅拌,待搅拌均匀即可离火,冷却至室温便可使用。
曼波酱
起源
芝加哥
特点
酸甜百搭,质地较薄
搭配
烤肉、油炸食物
曼波酱(Mumbo)是由芝加哥餐厅老板 Argia B. Collins 在上世纪 50 年代研发的,最初在 Wings-n-Things 餐厅供应,随着越来越受欢迎,开始瓶装量产。
这款酱料的配方基于传统的酸甜烧烤酱的味型搭配,加以改良,口感类似于轻薄的蕃茄酱,既可以单独作为烤物和炸物的蘸料,也可以结合与其他酱汁调和,或根据口味偏好替换配方中的调料比例,非常百变和百搭。
完整配方
配料
蕃茄酱(1 杯)、甘蔗糖浆(¾ 杯)、砂糖(¼ 杯)、白醋(⅓ 杯)、水(¼ 杯)、酱油(2 汤匙)、辣酱(½ 茶匙)、犹太盐(适量)
制作步骤
将所有原料在锅中充分混合,开中火加热并搅拌 15 分钟关火,待酱料冷却后即可装入挤压瓶中,冷藏保存。
黄酱
起源
南卡罗莱纳州
特点
酸甜辛香,具有德式风味
搭配
猪肉、牛肉、火腿、炸鸡
从哥伦比亚到查尔斯顿的沿海地区一带,定居着许多德国人,于是酱料配方里自然沾染了浓郁的德国风味。在德国,芥末与猪肉的地位,相当于花生酱和果冻之于美国——因此南卡罗来纳州的烤肉酱,是由黄色的芥末酱占主导的,难怪人们也把这款酱料称为“卡罗莱纳金酱”。
完整配方
配料
黄芥末酱(¾ 杯)、醋(⅓ 苹果醋)、伍斯特郡酱汁(1 汤匙)、辣酱(1 汤匙)、红糖(3-4 汤匙)、蕃茄酱(1 汤匙)、黑胡椒(½ 茶匙)
制作步骤
将所有配料放入锅中搅拌均匀;以中火煮制酱汁,边煮边搅拌;当酱汁煮沸,即可改小火慢煮 20-25 分钟,至酱汁减少为原来的三分之一,便关火,移至广口容器中,冷藏过夜。
红酱
起源
堪萨斯城
特点
口感较为浓厚,复合香料风味突出
搭配
牛肉、猪肉、羊肉、排骨、鸡肉、火鸡、香肠、鱼
说堪萨斯城是一个“烧烤之城”毫不为过,在这里有超过 100 家烧烤餐厅,还会定期举办大型烧烤烹饪比赛,其中就包括世界最大的烧烤比赛“美国皇家世界烧烤大赛”。
对烧烤的热忱,让堪萨斯烧烤丰富多彩,猪、牛、羊、鸡、鱼……一切都能拿来烤一烤。堪萨斯烧烤注重干香浓烈,烧烤前,首先要用香料给食材从里到外涂抹一遍,搭配的酱料也尽可能浓厚复杂,集合甜、辣,以及各种浓烈风味的香料于一体。
完整配方
配料
番茄酱(¼ 杯)、水 (1 杯)、红糖(¼ 杯)、苹果醋(⅓ 杯)、糖蜜(2 汤匙)、洋葱粉(1 大汤匙)、大蒜粉(1 汤匙)、黑胡椒(1 汤匙)、芹菜盐(1 茶匙)、多香果粉(1 茶匙)
制作步骤
将所有配料放入平底锅中,中火烧制 5 分钟,其间不断搅拌;接着降低火候慢煮 20 分钟,根据情况偶尔搅拌;烧至酱料浓稠后,将锅离火,让酱料冷却 10 至 15 分钟,即可食用。
白酱
起源
阿拉巴马州
特点
口感浓稠香滑,与烤鸡是绝配
搭配
鸡肉、烤鱼
自 1925 年以来,位于阿拉巴马州迪凯特北部的 Big Bob Gibson 烧烤店,一直是最受当地人欢迎的聚餐场所。这家店以原创的白酱配烤鸡而闻名,也让执着于浓甜味和蕃茄酱的美国人体验到了新的美味。
完整配方
配料
蛋黄酱(2 杯)、苹果醋(1 杯)、柠檬汁(2 汤匙)、糖(1 茶匙)、盐(1 茶匙)、黑胡椒(1 汤匙)、辣芥末酱(1 汤匙)
制作步骤
将蛋黄酱、苹果醋、柠檬汁混合,搅拌至顺滑的奶油状;加入黑胡椒、盐、辣椒、芥末酱、糖,搅拌均匀,密封好冷藏至少 30 分钟。
黑酱
起源
肯塔基州西部
特点
酸香稀薄,适于为多脂的羊肉解腻
搭配
羊肉
在 19 世纪时,肯塔基州曾是全美最大的羊肉生产地,虽然如今这里的羊肉产量大不如前,但羊肉烧烤的传统却被保留了下来。现在,说起肯塔基州西部美食,必会提到烤羊肉配以醋和伍斯特郡酱为主的黑色薄酱汁。
完整配方
配料
水(2 杯)、伍斯特郡酱(½ 杯)、蒸馏醋(½ 杯)、白胡椒(½ 茶匙)、红糖(1 汤匙)、五香粉(¼ 茶匙)、洋葱粉(¼ 茶匙)、大蒜粉(¼ 茶匙)、粗粒盐(1 汤匙)、柠檬汁(1¼ 茶匙)
制作步骤
将所有配料放入锅中,慢火煮 10 分钟即可。
除了盛产羔羊肉,肯塔基州还是波本威士忌的故乡。早在 1783 年,艾文·威廉姆斯在肯塔基州开设了第一家商业酿酒厂,波本威士忌就此诞生了。如今波本威士忌几乎成为肯塔基州的代名词,就连制作酱料,也要争当个 C 位。
威士忌烧烤酱配方
配料
蕃茄酱(2 杯)、红糖( ¾ 杯)、苹果醋(½ 杯)、菠萝汁(½ 杯)、肯塔基波本威士忌(⅓ 杯)、蜜糖(1 汤匙)、伍斯特郡酱(2 茶匙)、辣酱(½ 茶匙)、盐(1 茶匙)、黑胡椒粉(½ 茶匙)
制作步骤
将所有配料放入锅中,混合均匀,开中低火煮沸,再调小火慢煮 10 分钟,加热过程中不断搅拌,至酱汁浓稠细腻,即可离火,冷却后可立即使用,或密封好放入冰箱保存,保质期可达 3 周。
看了以上 10 款美式烧烤酱的来历与制作方法,你对“融合料理”这种 1970 年代才被定义的菜系,有了哪些新的领悟?你认为怎样的融合才是合理的?
配方参考:amazingribs.com;thespruceeats。
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