1300 - 1380
FITTING TO THE BODY
The biggest development of the 14th century was the move from flat, draped garments belted for shape to the cutting of curved pieces with more complex construction to fit the body - the beginning of tailoring.
Closures, especially buttons, became more important, used on new front openings and along very tight long sleeves.
Close fitting revealed men's and women's figures to great effect: sideless surcoats drew attention to slim waists and new waist seams, and low belts emphasized the hips.
Chests looked larger - both sexes made use of padding.
Padding Stitch
Colors began to contrast instead of match, and parti-coloring became popular.
Many believe that changes in "fashion" began increasing in speed from this time.
Clothing had tended to reflect one's place in society.
However, a greater variety of fabrics and accessories, such as hoods, belts, veils, gloves, and shoes, made it possible to blur social distinctions.
Button Fashion
LEATHER SHOES
Medieval leather shoes survive in much greater numbers than fragile textiles.
Piercing or incising with decorative patterns was popular and showed off colored hose underneath.
The long "poulaine" toe was stuffed with whalebone, wool, or moss to keep the shape.
Noblemen's shoes were embroidered with silks.
It was hard to keep feet dry, so people wore patterns - overshoes with raised wooden soles that kept feet above the mud and filth as they walked.
Poulaine shoe
公元1300年 - 1380年
贴合身体
十四世纪最大的发展就是从扁平化，自然下垂服饰以腰带束形，过度到有弧度的切片伴随更复杂的结构来贴合身体 - 这是剪裁的开始。
闭合处，特别是纽扣，变得越发重要，它开始被加在上衣前门襟和非常贴合的长袖上。
闭合贴身剪裁揭示了男女地位的重要变化：收侧边外套引起了人们对纤细腰部，新腰线位置，强调臀部低腰线的注意力。
胸部看起来更大了 - 男女都使用衬垫和填充物。
填充压线服饰与纽扣
颜色以对比代替同色系，两色拼接成为流行。
许多人相信“时尚”的变化从这时开始加速。
服装会反应一个人的社会地位。
然而，更多样化的面料和配饰，例如面罩，腰带，面纱，手套和鞋子，让模糊阶层差异成为可能。
填充物压线与纽扣成为时尚
皮质鞋履
中世纪留存的皮质鞋履比脆弱的纺织品多得多。
穿孔或者切割的装饰图案大受欢迎，并且它能够显示镂空下的色彩。
长长的poulaine波兰那鞋尖里填充着鲸鱼骨，羊毛或者植物来保持形状。
贵族的鞋履是绣花丝绸做的。
保持脚部干燥很困难，所以人们穿着带图案 - 高木制鞋底套鞋，避免走路沾上泥土和脏东西。
波兰那鞋
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