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#每天读一点服装史# HIGH RUFFS AND WASP W

#每天读一点服装史# HIGH RUFFS AND WASP W

作者: 末小闲 | 来源:发表于2017-07-30 12:46 被阅读0次

    1890 - 1899

    HIGH RUFFS AND WASP WAISTS

    Women’s wear in the last decade of the Victorian era was characterized by high collars, held in place by collar stays, and stiff steel boning in long-line bodices and corsets.

    Mid-decade, tiny wasp waists were emphasized by the most enormous sleeves and pyramid skirts with smooth fronts, which had pleating concentrated at center back.

    In mainstream fashions, the ruff, corseting, padded sleeves, and coneshaped skirts consciously recalled Elizabethan fin-de-siecle styling.

    1893

    Ball dresses were décolleté (had a low neckline), but for day wear barely any flesh was revealed below chin level.

    Dark colors persisted but were challenged by a lighter palette anticipating Edwardian pinks and creams.

    Colored stockings and high heels were popular.

    The use of exotic bird feathers and even whole birds on hats had become such an issue that the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds was founded, to campaign against any but ostrich feathers being used in the future.

    1899

    CAPES

    Short, boxy capes replaced the 1880s dolman capes, once the bustle had disappeared.

    Silk brocade was popular for opera wear, to cover decolletage, and might be trimmed with jet, French jet (glass), lace, appliqué, braid, fur, or feathers.

    For day wear, wool cloth capes trimmed with braid or appliqué detail coexisted alongside traveling jackets and full-length coats.

    Black and red were the most fashionable colors.

    1890 - 1899

    环状高领与紧身细腰

    维多利亚时代的最后十年,女装特征是高领,将身体禁锢在固定领口,与紧身胸衣里面。

    1893 1893

    中期时,极瘦的黄蜂式细腰在超大羊腿袖与前面平滑的金字塔裙装的强调下,越发凸显了。其中,褶皱的部分都被集中在了后背中心处。

    在主流时尚中,花边,胸衣,羊腿袖和圆锥裙有意识地令人回忆起伊丽莎白女王的最终世纪风格。

    羊腿袖

    晚会礼服是低领口的,但平日装束里几乎没有任何肉体从下巴下面显露出来。

    深色调依然存在,但也受到爱德华时代浅色调粉红与奶油色的挑战。

    彩色丝袜与高跟鞋很受欢迎。

    皇家鸟类保护协会成立,皆在对抗未来使用鸵鸟羽毛的使用问题。

    1899

    斗篷

    当臀衬消失,短款的披肩久取代了1880年的多曼蝙蝠披肩。

    丝绸锦缎是当时最受欢迎的歌剧用料,用以罩住低胸礼服,也可以玻璃珠,蕾丝,贴布,编织带,毛皮或羽毛作装饰。

    对于日常穿着,编制带或贴花装饰的羊毛披肩与旅行夹克和全长外衣共同穿着。

    黑色与红色是最时髦的颜色。

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