1 Grape Species, Varieties and R

1 Grape Species, Varieties and Rootstocks-B1

2016-12-03 WSET 3 葡萄酒的门徒

葡萄种类品种，以及砧木

PHYLLOXERA AND ROOTSTOCKS

Phylloxera

Phylloxera was brought to Europe in the mid nineteenth century as a result of the transatlantic trade in plant material. V.viniferahas no way of resisting the vine pest, which was therefore able to cause the wholesale destruction of the vineyards of Europe by the late nineteenth century. Unlike Downy and Powdery Mildew, Phylloxera cannot be controlled by chemical sprays. It has a very complex life cycle, which means it takes different forms throughout the year. During one phase it lives underground and feeds on the roots of the vine. Bacteria and fungi enter through the feeding wounds and infect the roots. The vine is weakened by these infections, becoming less and less productive every year. After several years the vine is so weakenedit dies. American vines, which evolved with phylloxera, are able to inhibit the underground louse by clogging its mouth with a sticky sap. They also form protective layers behind the feeding wound preventing secondary infections. Phylloxera is now a problem in nearly every vineyard area of the world. There are some exceptions such as Chile, some parts of Argentina and South Australia where strict quarantine procedures protect against infection.

The lifecycle of phylloxera

葡萄根瘤蚜以及砧木

葡萄根瘤蚜

葡萄根瘤蚜是十九世纪中叶通过跨大西洋贸易中的植物材料传到欧洲的。欧亚葡萄没有抵御该葡萄虫害的能力，所以十九世纪末这些虫害对欧洲的葡萄园造成了大规模的破坏。与霜霉病和白粉病不同，葡萄根瘤蚜不能通过喷洒化学药品来控制，葡萄根瘤蚜有一个非常复杂的生命周期，这意味着他们在一年里有着不同的形态。在其中一个阶段，它们生活在地下以葡萄的根部为食而存活。细菌和真菌会通过葡萄根瘤蚜蚁咬食的伤口侵染根部。葡萄藤会因为这些感染而渐渐衰弱，生产能力也会逐年降低。几年后，葡萄藤就会衰弱致死亡。与葡萄根瘤蚜一起进化来的美洲葡萄能够通过分泌粘液堵住葡萄根瘤蚜的来抑制地下的虫子，还会在伤口处形成保护层以防止二次感染。根瘤蚜几乎是世界上每一个葡萄园面临的问题，不过也有例外，例如智利、阿根廷的一些地区以及澳大利亚南部，严格的检疫程序是这些地方的葡萄没有被感染。

Hybrids as Rootstocks

When Phylloxera struck Europe in the late nineteenth century itwas discovered that the louse could be inhibited by sandy soils and by flooding the vineyards but these were never anything other than local solutions to the problem. Initially, the only way of dealing with it was to plant American species or hybrids. The quality of wine produced from these vines was never deemed to be of a good quality and by the end of the nineteenth century a better, if more expensive, solution was found. V.vinifera could be grafted onto an American vine’s rootstock. This offered the protection of the American vine and the flavour of the European vine.

A vine nursery. The newly grafted vines are allowed to establish themselves in pots before planting out in the vineyard.  

杂交砧木

当葡萄根瘤蚜在十九世纪晚期袭击欧洲时，人们发现可以用多沙的土和漫灌葡萄园来阻止虫害，然而这只是一些当地的解决办法。最初只有使用美洲种或是种间杂交种才能抑制葡萄根瘤蚜。但是这些品种的葡萄酿出来的酒从来没有达到优异的品质，直到十九世纪末，人们才找到一个更好但也更贵的解决方法。欧亚葡萄可以被嫁接到美洲葡萄的砧木上，这样葡萄树既能抵御根瘤蚜又具有欧亚葡萄的风味。

Since this initial discovery, great effort has been put into developing the best rootstock hybrids. The first rootstocks, developed from V.riparia and V.rupestris were resistant to Phylloxera, but were poorly adapted to the lime-rich soils of many of Europe’s fine wine regions. Crossing these with V.berlandieri created rootstocks that were resistant to Phylloxera and tolerant of lime. More recent crossings have enabled the creation of rootstocks to cope with other problems. As more and more specialised rootstock hybrids are developed, it is becoming clear that their use can confer other advantages to the viticulturalist. Rootstocks can be used to protect against nematodes, provide better resistance to drought conditions and soil salinity, as well as control the vigour of the V. vinifera part of the plant. Therefore even if rootstocks are not needed to protect against Phylloxera they are still frequently used for the other advantages they offer despite the extra cost in planting grafted rather than ungrafted vines.

从那以后，人们便向培育最好的种间杂交砧木方向做出了更大的努力。最初的砧木是河岸葡萄与沙地葡萄的杂交种，对葡萄根瘤蚜有抗性，但是对欧洲优质葡萄酒产区的富含石灰的土壤的适应性很差。将这些砧木再与冬葡萄杂交的后代就培育出对跟刘雅有抗性及适应石灰岩的品种。近来杂交育种砧木为解决其他问题也创造了条件。随着越来越多的更具有针对性的种间杂交砧木被培育出，人们也愈加清楚地认识到这些砧木可以给葡萄种植带来更多的好处。砧木可以用来抵御线虫，提高葡萄的抗旱性、抗盐性，还能控制植株欧亚接穗部分的长势。因此，尽管嫁接工作会增加种植成本，就算无需砧木来抵御葡萄根瘤蚜，砧木有还是会因为别的优势而被经常使用。

Grafting

Grafting is the technique used to join a hybrid rootstock to a V. viniferavariety. Grafting used to be a very labour-intensive operation but the most popular modern technique, called bench-grafting, is now a fully automated process carried out by specialist plant nurseries. For this technique a short section of cane is cut from a rootstock variety and another section of cane of identical diameter is cut from aV.vinifera variety. The two canes are spliced together by machine and stored in a warm humid environment so that the wound can heal and form a callus. At this point any roots on the scion (V.vinifera part) or shoots on the rootstock are trimmed off. The vines can be planted straight away or kept in cold store for up to a year until ready for use.

Omega bench graft. The precision of the machine cut and the bud on the scion can clearly be seen.  

嫁接

嫁接是一项将种间杂交砧木与欧亚葡萄连接在一起的技术。嫁接在过去是一项劳动力非常密集的工作，但是现在最流行的枝接法在苗圃技术人员的操作下称为 bench-grafting 工作台嫁接，使得嫁接完全自动化了。操作这项技术，先截取一段短的砧木，再从欧亚葡萄上取一截与这段砧木有相同直径的结果母蔓。用机器将这两段枝条拼接在一起，并存放在温暖湿润的环境中以帮助伤口愈合并结痂。在这个时候，无论是接穗（欧亚葡萄部分）或是作为砧木的新枝上长出的根都要修剪掉。嫁接苗可以直接种植，或在冷库备用，但最多贮存一年

There is another form of grafting called head-grafting that is used if the grower with an established vineyard needs to switch to another variety from one season to the next. It takes a newly planted vine a minimum of three years to be able to produce a commercial crop, but this technique can allow the grower to rapidly accommodate changes in the market. It is also considerably cheaper than replanting the whole vineyard and the new variety can enjoy the benefits of an established root system. The existing vine is cut back so that only the trunk remains and either a bud or a cutting from the new variety is grafted onto the trunk. If the graft is successful the vine will produce the new fruit at the next vintage although care must be taken to remove any shoots from the original variety that might otherwise take over.

另外一种嫁接方式称为 head-grafting 芽接，当那些已经种植了葡萄的葡萄园想要在下一个生长季转换品种时，就使用牙接来嫁接。一棵新种的葡萄苗至少需要三年才能结出有商业价值的果实，但是芽接可以使种植能很快地根据市场转换品种。并且这种方式要比在整个葡萄园中重新种植更加便宜，另外新品种还可以直接使用现存葡萄根系的优势。将现存的葡萄修剪到只留下主干部分，再将新品种的芽或是枝条嫁接到主干上。如果嫁接成功，葡萄会在下年采收季结出新品种的果实。不过，对原来主干的管理要很小心，必须去除原先品种长出的任何新枝，以防原先品种占据优势而替换失败。

KEY GRAPE VARIETIES

Throughout this book there are references to international grape varieties, a term that is widely used in the wine world to refer to varieties that have found success in many places beyond their original homeland. This is not an officially defined term but the varieties almost everyone would include in their definitions are: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Pinot Noir.

重要的葡萄品种

本书经过会提到“国际葡萄品种”的名字，用来描述那些已经在世界各地以及发源地取得成功的葡萄品种。这并不是一个官方的经过定义的术语，但是大多数人默认的最重要的破品种有: Chardonnay 霞多丽、Sauvignon Blanc 长相思、Cabernet Sauvignon 赤霞珠、Merlot 梅洛、Syrah 西拉以及 Pinot Noir 黑比诺。

White Grape Varieties

Chardonnay

Chardonnay takes its name from a village in the Mâconnais, but has expanded widely from its Burgundian roots and is planted around the world. It can produce quality wines in a wide range of climates, although the style varies considerably. Cool climates, such as Champagne and Chablis, give very steely wines, medium to light in body, with high acidity and apple, pear or green plum fruit notes. More favourable sites, and moderate-climate regions, result in more citrus, melon and peach flavoured wines. In warm and hot climates, the fruit character tends towards exotic flavours such as banana, mango and fig. Chardonnay from very hot regions can be very full-bodied, high in alcohol and low in acidity. The fruit character of Chardonnay is rarely very pronounced: it could be described as non-aromatic. This means that other characteristics such as vineyard character and winemaking techniques can contribute much to the flavour of a Chardonnay wine. It is common to use malolactic fermentation, which softens the fruit and acidity and gives flavours of butter and hazelnut. Chardonnay also takes well to oak, and many are fermented and/or aged in French or American oak. This gives some tannin and rich, toasty, nutty flavours to the wine. Lees stirring is also used to give complexity and body to Chardonnay wines. Classic regions include Burgundy and Champagne in France; Russian River and Carneros in California; Adelaide Hills, Geelong and Mornington Peninsula in Australia and Gisborne and Marlborough in New Zealand, but high-quality Chardonnay wines are made in many regions.

Chardonnay in California.

白葡萄品种

Chardonnay 霞多丽

在极为炎热的地区，霞多丽葡萄酒的酒体会非常饱满，酒精度高并且酸度低。霞多丽的果香味不太显著:可以说这是非芳香型的品种。这也就意味着葡萄园的特色以及酿酒技术等其他特点会极大的影响霞多丽酒的风味。霞多丽酒的酿造过程中经常应用苹果酸乳酸发酵，该过程将酒的果香味和酸度变得更加柔和，还能增加一些黄油和榛子的风味。霞多丽与橡木也能很好地结合，许多霞多丽葡萄酒的发酵乃至熟化的过程都是在法国或是美国橡木桶中进行。这些过程增加了酒中的单宁，还带来醇厚感，以及烤面包和坚果的风味。霞多丽葡萄酒的酿造过程还可能应用酒泥搅动，这个方法增加了葡萄酒的复杂度，并使酒体更饱满。霞多丽葡萄酒的经典产区包括法国 Burgundy 勃根地及 Champagne 香槟区；加利福尼亚的 Russian River 俄罗斯河谷及 Carneros 卡尼罗斯；澳大利亚的 Adelaide Hills 阿德莱德山、Geelong 吉龙和 Mornington Peninsula 莫宁顿半岛；新西兰的 Gisborne 吉斯伯恩和 Marlborough 马尔堡，除了这些经典产区，很多其他地区也出产优质的霞多丽葡萄酒。

Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Blanc is planted widely in Bordeaux, in the Loire Valley and the New World, particularly Marlborough, New Zealand. If planted in cool or moderate climate regions on poor soils, it has high acidity and the classic green, herbaceous flavours, often reminiscent of green pepper, grass or nettles. These herbaceous characteristics are usually joined by some fruitiness - typically passion fruit, or elderflower. In warm and hot regions, it can fail to develop much aromatic character and just have hints of peach and grapefruit. Oak is sometimes used to give the wines more body and flavour character, particularly in the United States, where the oak-aged wines are frequently labelled as Fumé Blanc. Most Sauvignons are best consumed while young and fruity. Those that do not simply fade can develop vegetal aromas of asparagus and peas as they age, which some people enjoy. Classic regions include Sancerre, Pouilly- Fumé and Marlborough. Good examples can also be found from other parts of the Loire and New Zealand, as well as South Africa, Chile, Bordeaux, the Midi and California.

Sauvignon Blanc 长相思

长相思葡萄广泛栽培在 Bordeaux 波尔多、Loire Valley 卢瓦尔河谷，新世界尤其是新西兰Marlborough 马尔堡。种植在凉爽或温和气候地区的贫瘠土壤条件下的长相思葡萄酿出的酒有着高酸度，典型的绿色草本植物味，令人联想到青椒、青草或荨麻。这些草本特点还经常伴有一些水果香——通常是西番莲果或接骨木花味。在温暖和炎热的产区，长相思往往难以体现出更多的芳香特征，仅仅略有桃子和西柚的香味。有时会用橡木来增加酒体的饱满度和复杂性，尤其是在美国，用橡木桶培养后的长相思葡萄酒常常会标识为“白芙美”。大多数长相思葡萄酒适合在饱含果香的年轻时期饮用。但是那些香味没有随时间消失的长相思葡萄酒陈年后会再发展出芦笋和豌豆的植物味、有些人很喜欢这样的味道。经典产区包括法国 Sancerre 桑塞尔，Pouilly- Fumé 普伊-芙美以及新西兰 Marlborough 马尔堡。其他优质产区有: Loire 卢瓦尔河、新西兰、南非、智利、波尔多、the Midi 米迪（法国南部地区）以及加利福尼亚。

Riesling

Riesling is widely planted around the world. For many years it seems to have been about to become fashionable again, although this is probably wishful thinking by those who love Riesling wines and cannot believe that they will continue to be unappreciated by the public for much longer. It is a fruity, aromatic grape variety that retains its high acidity. It ripens late, but is very hardy, making it an ideal source for late-harvest wines. It can produce great wines in a range of styles, in a range of climates. In cool climates, such as the Mosel, it can have a very fresh grape and apple fruit character, and the high natural acidity is often balanced with some sugar. Late-harvested grapes from these regions, and vines grown in warmer regions such as Alsace, Austria and the Clare Valley, result in more citrus and peach fruit notes. Some Australian Rieslings have a distinct lime fruit character. Like Chardonnay, Riesling produces wines that vary with and reflect their location. Unlike Chardonnay, Riesling does not benefit from techniques such as malolactic fermentation and oak-ageing. With its distinctive fruit, it does not need any added flavours. The exceptions to this are the extremely complex and elegant dessert wines made with botrytis-affected Riesling grapes. Due to their high acidity and intense flavours, even quite modest Riesling wines can age very well, developing notes of honey, smoke and sometimes petrol. Classic regions include the Mosel, Nahe, Rheingau and Pfalz in Germany; the Wachau in Austria; Alsace in France; and the Clare and Eden Valleys in Australia.

Riesling 雷司令

雷司令在世界各地广泛种植。许多年来的雷司令似乎有再次流行起来的势头，这也可能是雷司令爱好者所期盼的，但他们恐怕难以相信的雷司令为大众所赏识还需要更长的时间。雷司令是一种有浓果味、芳香浓郁且同时持有高酸度的葡萄品种。它晚熟却很耐寒，是酿造晚收葡萄酒的理想品种。不同的气候条件会赋予雷司令不同的风格。在凉爽气候条件下，例如德国 Mosel 摩泽尔，雷司令葡萄酒可以有很新鲜的葡萄和苹果味，同时经常用一些残留糖分来平衡天然的高酸度。这些地区的晚熟葡萄以及在温暖地区例如法国 Alsace 阿尔萨斯，奥地利和澳大利亚 Clare Valley 克莱尔谷的葡萄，会有更多的柑橘和桃子香味。一些澳大利亚雷司令拥有独特的青柠香味。与霞多丽一样，雷司令酿造的酒的风格会随着它所生长的地区而改变。但和霞多丽不同，雷司令并不能从类似苹果酸乳酸发酵以及橡木桶中熟化等技术中获益。因为它独特的果香，不需要再添加其他的风味。唯一的例外是用受贵腐菌感染的雷司令葡萄酿造的风味极为复杂而优雅的甜酒。得益于其高酸度和浓郁的芳香，即使是一般的雷司令葡萄酒也有良好的陈年能力，并发展出蜂蜜、烟熏，甚至有时候是气油的风味。经典的雷司令产区有德国的 Mosel 摩泽尔，Nahe 纳赫，Rheingau 莱茵高，Pfalz 法尔茨；奥地利的 Wachau 瓦豪、法国的 Alsace 阿尔萨斯、澳大利亚的 Clare Valley 克莱尔谷和 Eden Valley 伊顿谷。

Note that Welschriesling is a totally unrelated variety. To avoid any confusion, therefore, Welschriesling must always appear under its full name or one of its synonyms:

Welschriesling 贵人香与雷司令是两个完全不相干的葡萄品种。因此，为了避免任何可能的混淆，贵人香必须始终以其全名或者别名出现:

Welschriesling in Austria, Hungary and Bulgaria

Laski Rizling in Slovenia, Croatia and Serbia

Olasz Rizling in Hungary.

贵人香在奥地利、匈牙利、保加利亚被称为 Welschriesling。

在斯洛文尼亚、克罗地亚、塞尔维亚则被称为 Laski Rizling。

在匈牙利则是 Olasz Rizling。

Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio

Pinot Gris produces its finest wines in Alsace, though the full-bodied, spicy Alsatian style is copied in other regions, including Tasmania, Marlborough and Oregon. In Alsace, even the dry wines tend to be rich-textured and oily, rather high in alcohol and moderate to low in acidity. There can be ripe, exotic fruit, such as melon, ripe banana and mango, and sometimes botrytis flavours can appear in the dry wines. Botrytis-affected dessert wines are also made.

Pinot Gris 灰比诺 / Pinot Grigio 意大利是灰比诺

尽管 Tasmania 塔斯马尼亚，Marlborough 马尔堡以及 Oregon 俄勒冈都能产出酒体丰满，有香料味的模仿阿尔萨斯风格的 Pinot Gris 灰比诺，但是最优质的灰比诺葡萄酒还是来自阿尔萨斯。在阿尔萨斯，即便是干型的葡萄酒一般也会口感浓郁顺滑，有着高酒精度和中低酸度，展现出成熟的异国水果风味，例如甜瓜，成熟的香蕉和芒果，有时甚至还会在干型酒中出现贵腐的香味。当然贵腐甜酒也可以用灰比诺酿制。

In north-east Italy a different approach is taken with Pinot Grigio. The grapes tend to be harvested early to retain more acidity and avoid the development of too much fruitiness. The resulting wines are generally light and fairly neutral in character, with medium acidity. This popular, light, fresh style is increasingly being copied in many New World regions. The variety is also grown in Germany, where it is known as Ruländer or Grauburgunder, but is frequently labelled as Pinot Grigio and made in the Italian style.

在意大利东北部，酿制灰比诺葡萄酒的方法有所不同。葡萄一般会较早采收，以保留更多的酸度并且避免产生过多的果香。这种方法酿造出来的葡萄酒酒体轻盈，风味较淡，酸度中等。这种颇受欢迎的轻盈清爽风格也愈来愈多地为新世界产区模仿。这个品种在德国也有种植，被称为 Ruländer 卢德兰或 Grauburgunder 格兰柏根德，在经常酒标上会标注为意大利式 Pinot Grigio 灰比诺并以意大利风格酿造。

Viognier 

Viognier is becoming increasingly fashionable. In simple terms, it may be thought of as a variety that offers some of the soft, full-bodied texture of Chardonnay, but with more aromatic fruit character. It needs warm to hot conditions to ripen, and the great difficulty with Viognier, apart from its tendency to give low yields, is that it rapidly builds up very high sugar levels, often before its delicate peach, pear and violet aromas have had a chance to develop. This can result in some unbalanced, high-alcohol wines. Once the flavours have appeared in the grapes, careful handling is needed to retain them in the wine. Barrel fermentation is sometimes used, but it is easy for the resulting contact with air to destroy the fruit. The finest Viogniers come from the tiny regions of Condrieu and Château Grillet in the northern Rhône. These express all the delicate perfume, silky texture and mineral flavours that the grape can show. There are many fine examples of this variety being made in the south of France, Australia and California. Generally, these are wines to drink young, though a small number can age.

Viognier 

Viognier 维欧尼

维欧尼正变得越来越流行。简单来说，可以认为这是一个兼有一些霞多丽柔和及饱满的质地，又有浓郁果香的葡萄品种。维欧尼葡萄需要温暖甚至是炎热的气候才能成熟，除了产量容易偏低，一个种植的大难题是在于维欧尼经常在能够发展出细腻的桃子、梨和紫罗兰的香气之前，就已经迅速积累起了相当多的糖分。这会导致酿出的葡萄酒酒精度高，失去平衡感。而一旦精致的香气形成，就需要小心处理，以保证这些风味保留在葡萄酒中。有时会使用橡木桶发酵，但是与空气的接触很容易被破坏酒中的果味。最出色的维欧尼只来自非常小的一个地区，即北罗纳河的 Condrieu 孔德里约和 Château Grillet 格里业堡。这些酒散发着优雅的芳香，有着柔滑的质地和葡萄本身具有的矿物质风味。法国南部，澳大利亚以及加利福尼亚也出产非常优质的维欧尼葡萄酒。总体而言，这些酒大多适合在年轻时饮用，只有少数可以陈年。

Muscat

Muscat is not one variety, but a prolific family. All need warm, dry conditions to ripen well. The wines, which are often sparkling or fortified, have one thing in common: an intense grapey flavour. The aristocrat is theMuscat Blanc à Petits Grains. This is used for Asti, certain Vins Doux Naturels, and a version of this is used for Rutherglen Muscats. It gives the most complex, full spectrum of aromatic notes. Unaged wines are full of grape, peach, rose and citrus aromas. Those that see oxidative oak-ageing become very dark in colour, and develop aromas of raisins, fruit cake, toffee and coffee, yet always seem to retain their characteristic Muscat perfume. More commonly found is the Muscat of Alexandria, which is used for a few French Vins Doux Naturels, Spanish Moscatels and as a component in some mainly medium-dry wines in California, Australia and South Africa. This is a less aromatically complex variety, and the wines tend to smell simply of grapes. A third kind of Muscat, Muscat Ottonel, is used for attractively perfumed dry white wines in Alsace and Central Europe. With the exceptions of the oak-aged fortified wines, none of these lasts long once bottled, and all are best consumed while they are youthful, fruity and fresh.

Muscat 麝香品种

Muscat 麝香品种并不指代单一品种，而是一个包含多类亚种的葡萄家族。它们都需要温暖干燥的气候才能很好地成熟。酿出的酒经常是起泡或是加强型，并且有一个共同特点：非常浓郁的葡萄果香味。这个家族中的贵族品种是 Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains 小粒麝香，用来酿制阿斯蒂、某些天然甜葡萄酒，有一种小粒麝香葡萄用于酿制路斯格兰麝香葡萄酒。小粒麝香葡萄酿出的酒具有最为复杂、各式各样的芳香。未成年的小麝香葡萄酒富有葡萄、梨、玫瑰以及柑橘类的水果的香气；那些经过陈年氧化过程的酒的颜色会变的很深，并且发展出葡萄干、水果蛋糕、太妃糖以及咖啡的香气，不过麝香葡萄独特的香气始终蕴藏其中。更常见的品种是 Muscat of Alexandria 亚历山大 - 麝香，用于酿造一些法国的天然甜葡萄酒，西班牙麝香葡萄酒，在加利福尼亚、澳大利亚以及南非也用来与其他品种混酿一些中等酒体的干型酒。亚历山大 - 麝香是一个香气不太复杂的葡萄品种，酿出的葡萄酒一般只有葡萄果实的香味。第三种麝香葡萄的是 Muscat Ottonel 奥拖内 - 麝香，它在阿尔萨斯和中欧地区用来酿造香气诱人的干白葡萄酒。除了用橡木桶熟化的加强酒外，所有的酒一经装瓶便不宜长期贮藏，都需要在年轻、果香浓郁且清新时饮用。