2023年8月3日,包头,晴。
君临阁酒店没有提供早餐,我们到对面的一家“胖墩肉馅饼”早餐店过早。这店子外观上与关内普通城市的快餐店没什么区别,进去点餐吃起来就不一样了。奶茶、小面都带着羊肉味,再尝尝这招牌的肉馅饼,真应了包装上的吆喝:自然发酵好消化,麦香松软有点甜。
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早餐过后,我们收拾行李出发。今天要去呼和浩特,行程计划了包头市内的景区和敕勒川草原景区。第一站,去小白河湿地公园。这是位于包头市境内的黄河文化公园的一部分。
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这地方,名头很大,黄河文化公园之小白河湿地,其实也就是普通的湖岸,在我们武汉那都不叫景观。遇到一伙来此游览的本地人,也说大失所望。根据本地人的介绍,我们前往包头市区内的赛汗塔拉城中草原。这地方离小白河湿地不远,到达后发现只是城中市民溜娃消遣的一处公园而已。也是,我们把山水园林建成城市内的公园,为什么人家塞北的城市不能把草原移植到公园里?但这样的草原显然不是我们的目标。于是匆匆打卡便离开。
于是,包头这座城市,我们也就算打卡来过了。知道包头还有许多出彩的地方,这是赵武灵王的九原城,是吕布的出生地,是北齐开国皇帝高欢的故里。历史上的包头,多半是游牧民族的风云之地,如今更是北方民族文化交融的重地和宁陕晋冀蒙经济交汇的枢纽。草原钢都名声在外,常使人误以为这里的环境会是金属的色调,这次匆匆的路过,却被这里优美的自然与人居环境颠覆了想象。植被丰富、街道整洁是第一印象,难能可贵的是,城内有多处街心公园,景观设计均各有特色,昨晚晚餐后就曾去酒店旁边的小游园散步,果然夜景怡人,市民游憩其间,其乐融融。
翻看资料才知道,包头市先后获得联合国人居奖、中国人居环境范例奖、国家森林城市、国家园林城市、国家卫生城市和中国优秀旅游城市等荣誉。真让人意想不到。
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接下来向呼市进发。按照计划,中途经过敕勒川旅游景区和哈素海景区。后来才知道,敕勒川是延绵数百里的阴山山脉与黄河之间的广袤平原地带,敕勒川旅游区集中在土黙特右旗至左旗的一系列景区景点,主要有敕勒川博物馆、大雁滩、九峰山等。敕勒川镇在左旗,并非景点。我们首先去了右旗的敕勒川博物馆。这个作为内蒙古博物馆分馆的博物馆竟然是国家4A级旅游景区,其间展陈更是令人震撼。
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午间在博物馆对面的一家餐馆用餐的。这是一家叫做刘家大院铁锅居的汉族餐馆,地处旗政府附近,人气很旺,菜品质量杠杠的,价格也很实在。
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从博物馆出来时,刚刚响晴响晴的天,又开始下雨了。我们等雨少停便又出发了。先去大雁滩。穿过一个村庄,来大雁滩景区门口,匆匆打卡便向哈素海开进。
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哈素海,十分成熟的旅游区,有温泉娱乐,也有观光设施,更有广阔的湖面,真有海的感觉。在这里的游客不少,有湖南浙江甚至福建自驾到此的,都是在刚刚大雨过后赶到湖边观光摄影。先前我们在雨中开行还在纠结要不要来,现在,雨过云开,原野青碧,阴山耸翠,素海微波。拿起手机相机,我们要不虚此行。
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“敕勒川,阴山下,天似穹庐,笼盖四野。天苍苍,野茫茫。风吹草低见牛羊。”
在这样身临其境的感受和想象中,继续向呼市靠近。
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到达呼市的如家酒店时,已是晚上7点多钟。在酒店附近的“断片儿”锦州烧烤用餐,意外地欣赏到东北二人转表演。在淄博烧烤火爆的当下,在内蒙的首府,吃上正宗的锦州烧烤,那也是难得的体验。
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