One of the true joys of bouldering lies in its simplicity, which also makes it an excellent introduction to the sport of climbing. There are no complicated rope systems, you typically don’t get too high off the ground, and all you really need are shoes and some chalk.
抱石的真正乐趣之一在于它的简单,这也使得它是一个很好的介绍攀岩运动的项目,没有复杂的绳索系统,通常不会离地面太高,你真正需要的只是岩鞋和粉袋。
Bouldering seems safer than other forms of climbing, but the short falls are high-impact and can easily lead to injury if you hit the pads wrong. Since many gyms’ bouldering areas are covered in cushy padding, having a spotter inside isn’t usually necessary, but just like with roped climbing, knowing how to fall safely and land softly will help prevent injury. Feeling comfortable falling on the pads will also help you focus on trying hard on the wall, instead of being scared of hitting the ground.
抱石似乎比其他形式的攀岩更安全,如果你落在垫子上的方式是错误的,在短距高频率落地的情况下很容易导致受伤。许多岩馆抱石区地面都覆盖有软质垫子,多一个抱石保护员通常是不必要的,但就像攀绳,知道如何安全轻柔的下降,将有助于防止受伤。舒适的落在垫子上也有助于你专注于抱石的线路,而不是被吓得害怕落到地面。
Photo by Andrew Bydlon指导原则:
No two falls are exactly the same, and the gymnastic moves of bouldering often put our bodies in funky positions, meaning there’s no “one true way” when it comes to safer landings. The following list is a set of guidelines that you’ll want to think about and practice any time you head out for a bouldering session, whether it’s inside or outside.
就像没有两次落地是完全一样的,抱石坠落时我们的身体形状可能千奇百怪,这意味着当涉及到安全着陆并没有“绝对正确的方法”。下面的一组列表是你在抱石时心理和生理上不断要思考和实践的指导方针。
•Remove all jewelry, belts, and anything heavy or sharp in your pockets or on your person that could cause injury to you or others, including keys, phone, and wallet. Before you pull onto the wall, scope the landing zone to make sure it’s free of everything from water bottles and chalkbags to other climbers.
•去除所有的首饰,皮带和任何重物,或在你的口袋中可能导致伤害自己或者其他人的锋利物品,包括钥匙,手机,钱包等。你抱石跳下前,确保着陆范围区是空旷的,没有矿泉水瓶,没有粉袋及其他岩友。
•Once you start to peel off, never try to grab other holds to catch yourself. Accept that you’re falling and go with the flow—literally. The key is to find a good balance between keeping your whole body slightly engaged and at the same time somewhat relaxed. This might sound impossible, but finding the sweet spot of keeping muscles activated but soft is the key to safe landings. Tensing up too much before impact will lead to strains, sprains, and even bone breaks, ligament injuries, and muscle tears.
•一旦你开始掉落,千万不要试图抓住其他岩点阻止脱落。接受你的下降随它去吧。关键是身体要找到微微紧张和放松两者之间的平衡。这听起来感觉是不可能的, 有些像太极所说的“硬而不僵,松而不懈”,但找到肌肉富有活力而又放松的状态却是保证安全落地的关键。 落地冲击前过于紧绷,多会导致劳损,扭伤,甚至韧带损伤和肌肉撕裂,骨折等。
•Try to land with a shoulder-width or wider stance and bent, soft knees, directing most of the impact into your strong lower body, which is designed to absorb that sort of falling force.
•尝试在落地前双脚打开约一肩宽或者稍宽,屈膝,落地时顺势下蹲降低重心,这样可以有效的吸收下落的冲力。
•Land with the bottoms of your feet squarely on the mat, instead of the heels, toes, or side of the foot.
•落地时用自己的脚底板踩地,而不是脚尖,脚后跟,或者脚的侧面。
•Tucking your chin to your chest will help engage your neck muscles to prevent whiplash, which is a common injury for boulderers, especially after falling from a horizontal roof.
•收紧下巴至自己的胸部以防止颈部扭伤,这是一个抱石爱好者常见的损伤,尤其是从“屋檐”掉落。
•One of the biggest mistakes new boulderers make is trying to stick the landing and finish standing on their feet. When you land, allow your body to tuck in and roll down onto your side, back, or shoulder. Don’t fight the momentum of the fall; allow it to take you down to the mat in a soft “tuck and roll” manner.
•对于抱石新手来说一个最容易犯的错误就是落地时太想直接就站立在垫子上。 当你落地时要大胆让自己翻滚不管是前后左右。不要和下落的冲力对抗,柔和的用“抱膝和滚动”的方式落在垫子上。
•Never try to stop yourself with your hands or arms. Landing on an outstretched hand or arm can lead to an upper extremity injury like sprains, strains, or breaks. As you’re falling, try to hug your arms high and into your chest. This prevents them from instinctively reaching down to stop a fall, and it keeps them out of the way so you won’t bash them on any obstacles on your way down.
•绝对不要用手掌或手臂阻止自己的下落。落地时伸出的手或手臂,可能导致上肢损伤像扭伤,拉伤或骨折。当你正在下降时,试着收你的双臂到你的胸部,这使他们不会打到其他物体直到完成下落。
•When falling from a low roof where your body is almost horizontal, keep your arms and legs elevated, almost like they’re still holding onto the wall, allowing your back to absorb the impact (think of a turtle flipped on its shell). Remember to tuck your chin to your chest to prevent whiplash.
•当你从低矮的屋檐脱落,你的身体几乎是与地面平行的下落,保持你的胳膊和腿抬高,好像他们仍在岩点上,让你的背部吸收冲击(想一想乌龟被翻转的样子)。请记住,你的下巴收到你的胸部,以防止颈部扭伤。
•Dynos can cause a scary, face-down fall that leaves little time to correct your body position. Keep arms and legs up to avoid landing on them and turn your head to one side to stabilize the neck and prevent whiplash. Try to engage your core as well to soften the landing.
•跳跃经常会导致可怕的面部朝下跌落的情况,只有一丢丢时间可以将自己的身体调整到正确的位置。尽量确保手臂和腿部朝上状态,避免手臂或腿部先落地,把头扭向一侧以固定颈部防止扭伤。收紧核心,以便轻柔落地。
•When landing directly on your back or stomach, instead of curling your arms up into your chest, try to slap the mat out to your sides at the moment of impact. This will help counteract the force of the fall and engage your upper body just enough to keep it from flopping around, which can cause injury.
•当是你的背部或腹部直接落地,就不要蜷起你的手臂到胸部,在撞击垫子的瞬间撑住自己的身体,这将有助于抵消部分冲力,防止你的上半身来回翻滚,防止受伤。
需不需要专门的抱石保护员
Gyms with fully padded floors in the bouldering area rarely require a spotter, but some gyms still use movable crashpads, and even fully padded gyms might have problems that climb over an unpadded spot; in those instances you’ll need a spotter. The spotter’s job is to guide the climber’s body so it lands in the safest spot possible.
许多岩馆抱石区整个地面都覆盖有垫子,很少需要保护员,但是有些岩馆的抱石区依然使用的是移动的垫子,即使是全覆盖垫子的抱石,岩友也是可能落在垫子外,在这些情况下是需要保护员的。保护员的任务就是引导岩友安全正确的落回到垫面上。
That doesn’t mean catching the climber; instead, the spotter should have her arms up, elbows bent, and wrists and hands soft, ready to grasp the falling climber’s hips or waist and gently push them toward the safest part of the landing zone. A good spot relies on a good stance: feet a little more than shoulder-width, one foot slightly in front of the other with knees bent.
这并不是说要保护员抓住下落的岩友,相反的保护员只需做到两脚打开略比肩宽, 双脚前后微屈膝站立,举起手臂,弯曲手肘,放松手腕和双手,随时准备轻推岩友的臀部或腰部引导岩友的身体落向最安全的着陆区。
译者:饮铁
原文作者Julie Ellison
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