https://anuschkarees.com/blog/2013/05/23/developing-a-colour-palette-for-your-wardrobe/
Developing a Colour Palette for your Wardrobe
为你的衣橱打造色彩展板
Next to thesilhouettesandtexturesyou choose, the colours of your wardrobe and how you mix them are one of the most defining features of your own personal style. In previous posts I’ve talked a lot about finding the rightdistributionof all the different elements that make up your wardrobe, but I feel that colour deserves a special mention. As with all things wardrobe building, the tricky aspect about selecting the right colour palette is figuring out a way to combine form with function or, in other words, utilizing colour to shape a coherent overall look that expresses your aesthetic ideals (form) through a set of clothes that suit your lifestyle and are bothversatileand practical (function).
你选择了款式和材质后，你个人风格限定因素中最重要之一就是你的个人风格。在过去的贴子里，我已经讨论了许多关于打造衣橱的不同元素，但是我觉得颜色值得特别关注。对于打造衣橱的所有事项中，选择颜色展板最难的一点是找打一种方式将形式form和功能function结合在一起，也就是说，通过一些列适合你生活方式、通用versatile又实用的衣服（功能性function），来打造一个整体的风格，从而表达你对于美的理解（形式form）。
Below you will find ablueprintfor developing a colour palette for your wardrobe. As always, feel free to mold it to your own creative process and needs. I will explain the steps by creating an example seasonal capsule wardrobe, but the general method will also work on a smaller scale, e.g. for planning a travel wardrobe or a single outfit. If you just generally want to become more aware of your preferences and colour style, the first couple of steps will help you define a colourhierarchythat you can then use to tweak your current wardrobe or as a guide for future purchases.
下面你将会找到建立一个衣橱颜色展板的计划图，你可以按照你个人的创造和需求来修改它。我通过一个季节胶囊衣橱的例子来解释这个步骤，这种通用的方法也适用于小规模的搭配，例如计划旅行衣橱或单件搭配。如果你只想对自己的偏好和颜色风格更加了解，前面的几步会帮助你定义一个颜色层次hierarchy，你可以使用它来提升你现有的衣橱或者指导你未来的服装采购。
form 形式
Within any visual concept, colour is perhaps the single most important factor to consider, simply because it has the ability toinstantlytrigger amood, anemotion, an association to a culture or a certainera. In one of my favourite style books ‘The Fashion File’, Mad Men’s costume[kɒstjuːm]
designer Janie Bryant writes about her thought process for giving each character's wardrobe a verydistinctcolour palette to enforce their personality, history andaspirations. A good example are the three lading ladies of the first seasons: Joan, Peggy and Betty. Joan almost exclusively wears jewel [ˈdʒuəl] tones, deep saturated shades of blue, purple and forest green, to emphasize herbold,headstrongqueen bee personality. Peggy’s favourite colour on the other hand is a hot shade ofmustardto show her (initial) innocence andfrumpiness, whereas Betty’s wardrobe featured lots ofpastel [pæˈstel]shades to represent the classic 60s suburban[sə'bɝbən]dream.
在所有视觉概念中，色彩可能是需要考虑的最重要的单个因素，这是由于色彩能够立刻触发一种气氛、一种情绪，以及立刻联想到一种文化或一个特定的时代。在我最喜欢的的时尚书籍“时尚文件”中，MASMEN的服装设计师写了关于她是如何考虑为每一个角色的衣橱设计一个独特的颜色展板来增强他们的个性、历史和愿望。一个好的例子在第一季中三个女性，Joan总是穿得珠光宝气，饱和度高的蓝色、紫色和深绿色，用来强调她的果断的、刚愎自用的女王气质。Peggy最喜欢的颜色则是暖的深黄色，来显示她与生俱来的天真和邋遢，然而Betty的衣橱特点是很多淡淡的颜色，来显示经典的60年代田园梦。
Although many associations with specific colours are universal to an extent, your culture and past experiences will have provided you with your own unique aesthetic ideals that amongst a whole array of different elements also include a preference for a certain colour palette. My favourite method for revealing that preference, your unique colour style, is working with a good old mood board: collecting everything that inspires you and editing that collection like a sculpture, removing elements that no longer speak to you bit by bit and adding more of what you like, until it is perfect. At the beginning, your style might still be relatively undefined but overtime, as you train your eye, your aesthetic preferences will become more and more apparent until a coherent themecrystallizes. If you look closely, you can spot this evolution on many pinterest boards, where people’s first pins are often quite scattered but eventuallyconvergeand follow a single style. Sometimes, revealing your colour style is more aboutsubtractingthan anything else: Many people already have a preference for colours that has remained relatively stable since childhood, but might have adjusted that preference according to current trends or watered it down with other random colours they found in the shops. In that case, the key is to consciouslydefinethese preferences andextractany irritators that ultimately justdistract fromthe essence of your colour style.
虽然许多特定颜色的联系从某种程度上讲是普适的，但是你的文化和过去的经验会给你提供一些独特的美学理念，同样也包括对某个色彩展板的偏好。我最喜欢的揭示这种偏好（你独特的颜色风格）方法是去找一个最喜欢的“情绪展板”：搜集你喜欢的所有东西，像雕塑一样对这些东西编辑，逐步删除那些已经不再有感觉的东西，直到完美。在最初，你的风格可能相对不明确，当你逐步训练你的眼睛，你的美学风格偏好将会变得越来越明显，到最后一个连续的主题就会被精炼出来。如果你仔细看，你可以在许多风格板中发现这种进化，人们最初的pin通常很散，但是最后都会都会汇聚和遵循一个风格。有时，揭示你的颜色风格最重要的是减法，许多人从还孩提时期就有一个相对稳定的色彩偏好，但是可能会根据流行趋势进行调整，或者根据他们在商场里随机添加的颜色增加。关键是不断发现这些偏好，并去除哪些和你颜色风格不符的东西。
Your colour style is likely to be overarching in the sense that it will influence not only your wardrobe choices but also many other lifestyle areas such as your living space. However, your specific preferences may well vary slightly for different contexts, for example between seasons. For the following exercise it’s important to first choose the exact context you want to create a colour palette for, whether that is your general personal style, a single outfit or your summer capsule wardrobe.
从某种意义上来讲你的色彩风格是跨越的，它不仅影响到你的衣橱选择，还有生活中的其他方面例如居住空间。然而，对于不同的场景，你的特定偏好可能会略有不同，例如不同季节之间的偏好。对于下面的联系，很重要的一点是首先选择你想要建立色彩展板的一个特定场景，例如：你的通用个人风格，选择一套搭配，或者你的夏季衣橱。
Exercise练习
Once you have picked your context, start by collecting a ton of images with colours that inspire you in some way in regard to your context. Go through all your pinterest boards and inspiration folders and organise everything in one place, digital or physical.Even ifyou are developing a colour scheme for you wardrobe, you absolutely do not have to limit your search to pictures of outfits. Focus solely on the colours of an image and feel free to pick landscapes, objects, abstract things, animals or food. I created two separate boards to use as examples for this post, one with a cooler theme and one with warmer, more saturated colours, you can check them outhereandhere. Once you have a set of images, inspect it from far away, look for themes and pick out the main shades. You can do this by simply choosing your own descriptions of colours or using animage Colour pickerto get the exact shades. Be asspecificorgeneralin your colour descriptions as you want (grey, light grey, silver, charcoal....), and include variations of similar colours if they are a dominant theme in your collection. I created the mood board at the top of this post as an example for colours that inspire me in regard to my summer wardrobe and picked out the nine shades below. Of course any set of pictures, including my example, is going to consist of a very high number of individual shades, so the key here is really to focus on the ‘big picture’ and pick out the 6-10 mostdominantcolours.
一旦你挑了场景，开始选择那些和你场景相关的，能让你有感觉的图片，检查你所有的拼趣板、灵感文件夹，把所有东西汇总到一起，无论是数字形式的还是实物形式的。即使你在打造自己的衣橱色彩框架，你也完全不必把你找的照片限定在仅仅是服装上，把关注点放在照片的颜色上，随意选择风景照、物体、抽象画，动物或实物。为了这个帖子，我建立了两个展板作为例子，一个是冷色主题，一个是暖色、饱和度更强的主题，你可以看看这个两个展板。当你有了一套图片，从远处检查它，找找主题，跳出主要的颜色。你可以通过简单选择自己描述一下颜色，或者使用颜色抓取器来抓取这些颜色。你的色彩描述可以精确或粗略（如灰色，亮灰色，银色等），如果一些列类似的颜色在你的选择中是支配性主题，应当描述出这些颜色间的差异。当然任何颜色，包括我的例子，都会包括许多单独的颜色，所以关键是关注那些“大 颜色”，并选择6-10个最主要的颜色。
function功能
If you followed the above exercise you will now be left with an unstructured colour palette, guided just by your visual preferences. The second step is to organise those colours into a coherent colour scheme that is both practical and versatile and can be applied to your current wardrobe. There are a lot of different ways to structure a colour palette, but my favourite method involves creating something like ahierarchyby separating colours into one of three groups: main colours, neutrals and accent colours.
如果你按照上面的方法做，你现在就会有一个依据你的视觉偏好形成的没有框架的色板，第二步是将这些颜色组织成一个既实用又全能的色彩框架，它能够应用在你现在的衣橱里。有不同的方法来构建你的色板框架，但是我最喜欢的方法是，通过把颜色分成三组来创造层次感：主色调，中性色和强调色。
To build your own hierarchy, go back to your list of <10 colours and think about how versatile each colour is and how big of a role you want it to play in your wardrobe. Then, assign each colour to one of these groups:
建立你自己的层次感，先要回到你的小于10种颜色的列表，考虑一下每种颜色的通用性，以及你想让它在你的衣橱里起到怎样的作用。然后，把每种颜色放到下面三个组里。
Main colours: 3 - 4 主色调：3-4
Your main colours are the key ingredients of your colour palette. Look at the most dominant colours of yourmood boardand pick three to four shades that you feel best represent its overall feel, and that you can see yourself wearing a lot. I chose a soft blue, a light blue and a grey as the main colours for the example, because to me they bestconveythe overall cool-toned, lightvibeof the mood board. The main colours of my example are all relatively muted but they could just as easily be a bright yellow, pink andturquoiseor red,tealandnavy. If I was developing a colour palette based onthis mood board, my main colours would probably bepeach, warm medium pink and tomato red.
你的主色调是你颜色展板的关键要素，看看你情绪板里最主要的颜色，选择三个或四个能够最好表达它的整体感受的，以及你最常穿的。例如我选择一个柔和蓝色、一个亮蓝色和一个灰色作为主色调，因为对我而言他们最能够表达情绪板的整体冷色调、亮的感觉。我的主色调都是相对柔和的，但是可以是亮黄色，粉色，松绿色或红色，青色或深蓝色。如果我根据这个情绪板来打造一个色彩展板，主要的颜色应当是杏色、暖中性粉和西红柿红。
Neutrals: 1 - 3 中性色1-3
The neutral shades in your colour palette are supposed to support and balance out your main and accent colours. Obvious choices for neutrals are white, black, grey, navy and sand, but you could also pick a muted light blue, as long as it goes with all other colours in your palette. In the example, I chose white and the dark grey from the top-middle picture. During the initial picture search it can sometimes be quite easy to get carried away and just focus on the ‘real’ colours, so if your mood board doesn’t include any neutrals, brainstorm a few possible shades and test them out by adding an image of those colours to your mix.
你色板里的中性色是用来支持和平衡你的主色调和强调色的，典型中性色包括白色、黑色、灰色、海军蓝和沙色，但是你也可以选择浅亮蓝色，只要它和你色板上的其他颜色和谐就行。在这个例子中，我从上面中间的照片中选择了白色和暗灰色。在最初的图片查找时，有时很容易就被带走，只关注那些“真正”的颜色。所以如果你的情绪板不包括任何中性色，那就头脑风暴，想一些可能的颜色，并通过添加这些颜色的照片来检测搭配是否合适。
Accent colours: 2 - 5 强调色：2-5
Any colour that you picked out from your mood board but that you don’t feel should play a main role or could work as a neutralizer, makes a good accent colour. They are worn primarily with neutrals, or in small doses with your main colours. In my example, the accent colours are a lot more colourful than the other shades, however black or white could also be an accent colour, e.g. to combine with a brighter main colourfrom time to time.
任何你从情绪板中选择的颜色，如果你觉得它不适合作为主色调和中和色，就可以当做一个好的强调色。它们主要和中性色一起穿，或者小面积与主色调搭配。在我的例子中，强调色比其他色彩更加斑斓，然而有时黑色和白色也可以当做强调色，用以搭配亮色的主色调。
how to use your colour palette如何使用颜色展板
If you just wanted to refine your overall colour style, you can stop here and use your colour palette as a general guide for building outfits or reorganising your wardrobe. However, if you set out to develop a colour palette for a capsule wardrobe, like in our example, yourhierarchycomes into play after you have already chosen youruniformandproportionsand created a framework with rough item counts (after part ii). Check outthis postfor a full step-by-step guide on how to create a capsule wardrobe if this all sounds confusing. Once you have designed a structure of item categories (like the one below), you can start filling it in with your colour palette.
如果你想提炼你的整体色彩风格，你可以停下来使用你的色彩展板作为选择服装或者重新规划衣橱的通用指南。然而，如果你是打造一个胶囊衣橱的色彩展板，就如同我们这个例子中展示的。在你已经选择了你的衣服类型和数量比例，建立了一个包含大致单品数量的框架后，你的配色层次就应该开始了。仔细看看这个条子，里面详细描述了如何建造一个胶囊衣橱的步骤。一旦你已经列出了列表目录，你就可以开始使用你的色彩展板来填充了。
Skirts 半裙- 5
Shorts短裤 - 5
Shirts 衬衣- 6
Tank tops 无袖背心- 8
Dresses 裙子- 3
Footwear袜子或鞋子 - 5
To get started, go through your closet and pick out every item that fits one of the colours in your palette. Then examine each item category separately (e.g. dresses, tank tops, etc.) and fill each slot either with an item you already own or by picking a colour from your palette. Pay attention to the overall weight you give to your main colours, neutrals and accents and play around with the distribution until you find one that reflects your colour palette well. For maximum versatility, assign each item category at least one neutral colour (two if possible). Accent colours should make up about 25% of your capsule wardrobe items (not counting accessories) and it’s generally a good idea to reserve them for categories with lots of items (e.g. tops). Once you have distributed your neutrals and accent colours, fill in the rest with your main colours. To show you an example, I used the colour hierarchy we created in the previous steps to fill in a possible structure of a summer wardrobe. Each category includes two neutral items (white and dark grey), except for dresses because they can be worn on their own and thus have to be less mixable. I reserved accent colours for the larger categories (shirt and tank tops) and filled in the rest with an even distribution of the main colours.
首先，打开你的衣橱，找到每一件符合你色彩展板上颜色的衣服，然后检查每一个条目（如裙子，无袖背心等），然后把你的衣橱中已经有的单品的颜色填上，也可以选择你色彩盘上的颜色填上。注意你分配给主要颜色、中性色和强调色的整体比重，调整比例分配，知道整个衣橱颜色能够反映你目前的色彩展板。为了使通用性最大化，在每个类别中加入至少一个中性色（如果有可能的话两件）。 强调色应当在你的衣橱单品中占25%，有一个好办法是在有很多件的单品中选几件是强调色的（例如无袖背心），一旦你分配好了你的中性色和强调色，剩下的填入主色调，例如，我使用上一步我们选出的颜色来天聪夏季易初可能的结构，每一个目录包括两见中心色单品（白色和黑灰色），除了裙子，因为裙子通常可以单穿，所以要少些混搭。我在大的类别（如衬衣和无袖背心）中加入了一些强调色，然后用主色调填充了剩余的位置。
Of course, things always get shuffled around in the end, but a rough plan like this always helps me to spot the gaps in my closet and ultimately leads to a better capsule wardrobe that is really in tune with my aesthetic preferences and mood of the season.
当然，事情最后可能会反复，但是一个粗略的计划通常会帮助我识别我实际衣橱和理想衣橱之间的鸿沟，最终帮助我打造更好的、符合我美学偏好和季节心情的胶囊衣橱。
Do you have a defined colour palette? Does it change with the seasons?
网友评论