江南织造博物馆的另一常设展是“云锦天衣”。
南京云锦生产的历史,最早可追溯到三国时期,明朝时织锦工艺日臻成熟和完善,并形成南京丝织提花锦缎的地方特色。
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清代在南京设有“江宁织造署”,云锦织造盛极一时,这一时期的云锦品种繁多,图案庄重,色彩绚丽,代表了南京云锦织造工艺的最高成就,被誉为“锦中之冠”,是民族及世界珍贵的历史文化遗产。
云锦生产工艺过程极其繁杂,工序极多,每道工序的工艺都有很多谜一样的诀窍。
其工序概括起来,主要有五大部分,即纹样设计、挑花结本、原料准备、造机和织造。
从织造工艺上,南京云锦分为四大类:库缎、织金、库锦、妆花。其中“妆花”是南京云锦织造工艺中最为复杂的品种,用绕有各种不同颜色彩绒的纬管,对织料上的花纹做局部断纬挖花盘织,有着“金线翠羽、逐花异色”的美称。
云锦图案常用的图案样式有:
“团花”、“散花”、“满花”、“缠枝”、“串枝”、“折枝”、“锦群”几种,以“团花”为例说明:
“团花”,就是圆形的团纹。团花图案,一般是用于衣料的设计上。在库缎和织金缎上设计团花纹样,是按织料的门幅宽度和团花则数的多少进行布局。则数少,团纹就大;则数多,团纹就小。
展厅通过“元、明、清、民国”的发展脉络,可以了解清朝时期南京云锦织造业的盛况,但此地陈设和云锦博物馆的云锦比起来,还是有差距的。
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