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#每天读一点服装史98篇# THE NEW KNITWEAR

#每天读一点服装史98篇# THE NEW KNITWEAR

作者: 末小闲 | 来源:发表于2017-08-24 13:11 被阅读0次

    1920 - 1929

    THE NEW KNITWEAR

    In the late 1910s women began to wear cardigans and long sweater tunics, mainly for sports or resort wear.

    Coco Chanel famously donned a long jersey sweater on the Normandy beach as early as 1913.

    This knit textile had previously been used only for underwear but Chanel fashioned it into coats and suits.

    Knitwear was the perfect fit for the active, modern woman, personified by the French tennis ace Suzanne Lenglen who patronized Chanel's rival Jean Patou.

    While not everyone could afford his patterned sweaters--with matching accessories -- cheaper versions were available for the mass market.

    Knit cardigans, tunics, short coats, or entire knitwear ensebles were easy to put on, comfortable to wear, and survived transportation in a suitcase to the Riviera or the Alps.

    JEAN PATOU

    In the Paris of the 1920s and early 30s the dashing Jean Patou was as famous and successful as Coco Chanel.

    Often credited with the invention of the knit sweater and swimsuit, and sportswear in general, the couturier dressed sports stars, actresses, and dancers such as the Dolly sisters and Josephine Baker.

    The French tennis champion Suzanne Lenglen, a major popularizer of La mode sportive, here models a long, belted tunic sweater with zigzag bands on sleeves and hem, a pencil-pleated, white crepe de Chine skirt, and a fashionable felt cloche hat.

    Patou also designed the daring short-sleeved cotton attire Lenglen wore on court.

    1920 - 1929

    新针织服

    二十世纪10年代后期,女性开始穿着针织开衫与长款针织连身袍,主要为运动或度假穿戴。

    早在1913年,可可香奈儿就在诺曼底海滩上穿着长长的运动针织衫。

    这种针织纺织品以前仅用于内衣,而香奈儿则将其融入进时髦的大衣与套装里。

    针织衫完美贴合活跃的现代女性,为法国网球选手Suzanne Lenglen个人化定制的服装,由Chanel的对手Jean Patou赞助。

    当然并不是每个人都能负担他设计的图案毛衣,与配套装饰品,更便宜一些的版本则面向大众市场。

    针织开衫,长袍,短大衣或整个套头衫易于穿着,并且舒适,能装在手提箱里带到里维埃拉或阿尔卑斯山。

    让 巴杜

    二十世纪20年代与30年代初的巴黎,干劲十足的让巴杜与香奈儿一样出名与成功。

    通常为人所熟知的是他发明的针织毛衣,泳装以及运动服,穿着他设计的人士有体育明星,女演员以及舞者,如多莉姐妹与约瑟芬贝克等。

    法国网球冠军Suzanne Lenglen是La运动模式的主要推广者,这款长款带式针织袍,在袖子与下摆上有锯齿形带,搭配白色铅笔型百褶绉纱中裙,以及一顶时尚的毛绒帽子。

    Suzanne Lenglen 

    Patou还设计了大胆的短袖棉制服供Lenglen在场上穿着。

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