RECONSTRCTION
COTE - HARDIE
This carefully constructed replica of a parti-colored medieval cote-hardie (outer dress), with its undergarments, is in blue and murrey (mulberry-red).
It follows the styles found on memorial brasses from around 1375-85, which show the wives of knights and barons in formal or courtly dress.
The cut and constructionh -- four A-line, floor-length panels of fulled (thickened) wool twill with short inset sleeves -- have been conjectured by dressmaker Sarah Thursfield.
Although the shape looks simple to modern eyes, the figure-hugging cut and low neck were considered shocking at the time, and the bright dyes and rows of tiny buttons were condemned as extravagant.
Under the dress is a gray wool kirtle, lined with blue linen and laced at the center front.
Cotehardie for men
TWO FOR ONE
The mi-parti (part-colored) effect of this dress was very fashionable.
The dress is constructed in identical halves so it appears entirely red from one side and entirely blue from the other.
#每天读一点服装史# RECONSTRCTION
INNOVATIONS
Earlier dresses had long tippets cut as part of the sleeve and faced with fur.
The white cloth streamers on this cote-hardie could be a successor to these.
Buttons were fashionable for both men and women: the most expensive, with precious stones, were made by goldsmiths; cheaper ones were cast in pewter.
#每天读一点服装史# RECONSTRCTION
重建
柯特哈蒂裙
这款精心构造的半身复合色彩中世纪cote-hardie柯特哈蒂裙（外衣），在贴身内衣之上，是双色的拼接。
它遵循了来自1375至85年黄铜纪念碑上的风格，它展现了骑士与男爵的妻子正式有礼的穿着。
剪裁与构造 - 四条A字形，拖地长度的羊毛斜纹面料配上短的内接袖 - 被裁缝师Sarah Thursfield推测出来。
尽管用现代眼光看这些廓形很简单，但在当时这样的贴身裁剪与低领设计是非常令人震惊的，再加上亮丽染色与小排纽扣已经是非常奢侈的了。
哈蒂裙下是一条羊毛袍子，里面以亚麻衬里装饰，并在前胸中间加上绑带。
#每天读一点服装史# RECONSTRCTION
合二为一
这件裙子的拼色效果在当时是非常时尚的。
裙子是以相同的半片构造的，所以从一侧看起来它完全是红的，另一侧则是完全蓝色。
#每天读一点服装史# RECONSTRCTION
变革创新
早期的裙装上有长长尖尖的下垂设计，表面会镶一块毛皮。
这款哈蒂裙上的白色飘带可能是这种设计的延续。
纽扣对男女来说都是时尚：最昂贵的镶嵌宝石的是由金匠制作的；便宜的用铅和锡的合金制作。
#每天读一点服装史# RECONSTRCTION
网友评论