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#每天读一点服装史# MASQUERADE

#每天读一点服装史# MASQUERADE

作者: 末小闲 | 来源:发表于2017-07-10 09:24 被阅读0次

1625 - 1790

MASQUERADE

Since medieval times dressing up had been popular all over Europe.

In the Middle Ages masked mummers (traveling actors) performed in village pageants and traveled from house to house in Carnival season, which lasted from Christmas until Lent.

During Carnival, the Catholic Church allowed merrymaking and open-air festivities, so bands of masked revelers regularly paraded through the streets.

During the Renaissance people performed set scenes in elaborate processional pageants.

Harlequin

By the 18th century Carnival was celebrated all over Italy, with Venice leading the fashion for lively masquerades (masked balls and entertainments), held at night and lit with flickering candles and torches.

This trend soon became popular in France and England too, possibly because shadows and masks encourage relaxed behavior.

The term “masquerade” specifically described dressing as particular characters, but these extravagant events led to the more general practice of displaying wealth and social position by wearing “fancy dress” — formal clothes with small elements of masquerade added.

Domino

LADY WITH A MASK

The print of a portrait by British artist Henry Morland is called The Fair Nun Unmasked.

In 18th-century England the word “nun” could suggest a prostitute, and the painting is a form of satire.

The black veil suits this purpose, since prostitutes of the time often suggests an Italian batua, a length of black silk that covered the face for masquerades.

Henry moorland

公元1625年 - 1790年

假面舞会

自中世纪打扮在整个欧洲流行起来。

在狂欢季,头戴面具的哑剧演员在乡村挨家挨户地旅行表演,从圣诞节一直持续到狂欢节。

在这期间,天主教允许举行庆祝活动与露天狂欢,所以成群的头戴面具狂欢者会在街头游行。

文艺复兴时期的人们会在精心制作的巡演场景中表演。

舞会奢华服饰

到了十八世纪,嘉年华在意大利各地庆祝,威尼斯引领了现场假面舞会的潮流,人们在夜晚点燃了闪烁的蜡烛与火炬。

这种做法在法国和英国也很受欢迎,可能是因为在暗处与面具使人们的行为更放松。

“假面舞会”这个术语指按照特定角色来穿戴,但这些奢华的活动导致了利用“华丽服饰”来展示财富和社会地位的做法,正装加上假面小元素的穿法应运而生。

多米诺

戴面具的女士

英国艺术亨利莫兰的肖像画 “修女的揭露”。

在十八世纪英格兰,修女nun一词可以暗示为娼妓,这幅画正是这种讽刺的状态。

黑色的面纱贴合这个用意,当时娼妓经常穿着一种意大利式黑色长袍,一种能遮脸长度的黑色丝绸参加假面舞会。

修女的揭露

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