小城美
文/颜克
作为国家外派教师在菲律宾工作半年多,被分配到一个风景如画的山城碧瑶。但最想念的,依然是家乡,素有北国小江南之称的小城——舞钢,此刻恨不得穿越时空,可以瞬间回家。
如问谁人最爱国,唯有海外游子心;如问谁人最念家,怕是远方漂泊人。
当拉开思念的闸,家乡的美景一帧帧在眼前流转,我几乎热泪盈眶。我爱家乡的每一寸土地,每一条河流,每一块青石,每一片落叶……我想躺在春的柔美里呼吸油菜花的清香,我想畅游在夏的热情里与游鱼嬉戏,我想奔跑在秋的丰硕里牵着风筝起舞,我想融化在冬的纯洁里感受温暖的怀抱。
菲律宾没有四季,虽然这个山城一年如春,可以永远只穿一件T恤,每天都过得像昨天一样,我依然无比怀念家乡的四季分明。感受春、夏、秋、冬不同的韵味,对明天,充满期待;对昨天,深深的眷恋!不经历冬日严寒,怎知暖夏美好?
2014年12月中旬,马上就到冬至了。冬天的钢城,最有特色,先是冬把落叶树打扫干净,在落日的余晖里,傲得如剪影一般。住在山林里的舞钢人,就开始去捡干树枝了,留了冬天烤火,或者在院子里烤地瓜,烤野鸡,总之,玩火,那是孩子们冬日里最炙热的游戏。从初雪开始,对雪的期待越来越强烈,老人们总讲过去的时候冬天的雪如何如何大。是的,在我的记忆里,一直有一个场景定格,中学美术专业备考那段日子,晚上要加课画画,回家时已经快十点了。在暖暖的路灯下,三个背着画板的中学生,踩着没过靴子的积雪深一脚浅一脚的嬉戏着打闹着回家。转眼十多年过去了,那场景仿佛就在昨天。去年家乡的雪也很大,有一尺多厚,整个世界银装素裹,真的是美极了。早晨6点多,我就和“拍友”约了去拍雪景,灯台架景区的雾凇是别具一格,当我们走进山门的时候,没有一个脚印,这一片处女地,等我们去开垦。灯台架的一山,一石,一路,一亭,都换了新装,那黑白之间的色彩和构图,不用取景,每一个角度都可以入画。一行拍友中有一个孩子,十来岁的样子,才老实了一会儿,就和我们打起了雪仗,我们哪是孩子的对手啊,护着相机还要躲着雪球,索性我们放下装备和孩子闹了起来,一群老小孩比小小孩还会玩。疯累了就躺在雪地里,被群山环绕,被素白拥抱,美哉快哉乐哉。还没等歇过来,孩子又让我们一起堆雪人,我们便和孩子一起,堆了大大小小几个白白胖胖的雪人,等我们离开了,就让这雪人守望在这美景里吧。临别时我们约好,等太阳出来了再来拍冰凌,那将是另一番精致。
冬的严寒还没有退去,春就从山的南坡,一步一步的挪移,悄无声息的,先是小草使劲地钻出脑袋,零星的绿点染树林,然后湖畔的冰凌化开了,春水就那么荡漾起来。春又一步一步的爬上柳树,垂柳冷不丁的冒出一个嫩芽,春,就这么来了。人们也从暖暖的被窝里爬出来,呼吸春的气息和青草的淡香,一点一点,窗前的塔松也换了新装,偶有一只伸进窗里,像含羞草一样,叫醒卧室里的我。哦,春,我迫不及待舒活筋骨,沿着春的脚步,去看她留下的足迹。迎春花黄灿灿的,桃花也粉了,梨花白了,接着是油菜花,在山坡上,一步一步走过去,眼力所及,没有一处相同,走在蜿蜒的山路里,枝头的浅绿,麦地的中绿,山坡的浓绿,草地的青绿,还有那点点的光线下变幻的绿,真的没有更恰当的文字来形容。钢城的春,你必须要亲自走过才能感知,只一眼,画卷一样的春之歌,会定格在你的脑海里,一辈子。山下小河边的村姑也开始了在河边的刷洗,挽起袖子,露出脚丫,再拿个棒槌,和着鸟儿欢乐的叫声,和同伴的嬉笑声,钢城春日的生活就是如此。在舞钢的西山兜了一圈,回到市中心的龙泉湖畔,你再也不想坐在车里,沿着湖畔的河堤,垂柳依依,风吹动它的长发,也吹动你的春心。这时候槐花飘香,整个钢城都在甜丝丝的槐花香里,二郎山的槐花节会吸引方圆百里的人们,来这大自然的氧吧呼吸,感受魅力的槐花和迎春的美食。此刻,山间的农家院便开始热闹起来,即使不是周末或节假日,也有爱吃野味的人从城市寻来山庄,蘑菇炖野鸡,野猪肉,槐花包子,地笼炒鸡蛋,鲫鱼面片,烙馍卷小菜……这让远在异国他乡的我一想起来就口水直流。家乡的美食,太诱惑了。酒足饭饱去踏青,钢城的每一寸土地,都值得你用双脚去丈量。
人们总说春宵苦短,钢城的春,仿佛更短,还没有来得及和春拥抱,她就悄悄的北上了,夏在第一声知了的叫声中来临。不知不觉,后山上的林子已经变得浓绿,街上的姑娘们也换上了飘扬的长裙,湖畔的沙滩上多了游泳的人,山里的小河边帐篷多了,烧烤开始了。最期待夏天去河里摸螃蟹,仿佛寻宝一样,看着一只只肥蟹装满竹篓,仿佛就闻到了蟹香,那是自己劳动的收获。偶尔也会抓几条小鱼,或是遇见泥鳅,就是意外的收获了,有时候也有河虾,但我常常抓不到,抓虾是需要专业技术的。奶奶说遇到小螃蟹了就把它放回去,虽然奶奶没有什么大道理,但我们也都这样做了。在小河边的树林里支起烧烤架,绑上吊床,男人们开始准备美食,女人和孩子玩耍,捡石头,画树叶,或是脱了鞋子在河里嬉戏,夏是孩子的乐园,小河是孩子的伙伴。当第一缕羊肉串的香味儿刺激你的味蕾,便开始了大口吃肉大碗喝酒,这情景既有梁山好汉的好爽旷达,又有林泉高士的野逸舒爽,还有几分大观园里粉质香娃们割腥啖膻的活络任性。旁边也许还有三五成群吆五喝六猜拳的、打扑克的吆喝的,没有关系,仿佛在这片树林里的人们是一个大家庭,无论你来自家乡,还是远方,都是微笑地打招呼,或是交换彼此的美食相互品尝一下。钢城的人们,是像钢城的夏一样热情的,泉水里冰镇的西瓜是夏季最美味的水果,切开分给邻桌的食客,这甜蜜从舌尖一下子就到了心头。
夏季赏荷也是来到钢城必不可少的一项雅玩。单不说湖畔或是野地的荷有着这样那样的风情,只是瑞祥牧业的万亩生态荷塘就足以让你流连忘返。画家、诗人、摄影师是这里的常客,每一朵荷每一天每一个角度,都会有展示出不同的风姿,或妩媚,或清纯,亦或妖娆,你能想象到的或是想不到的,那荷,就在一片碧波里静静盛开。泛舟荷塘,仿佛游在画卷里,满满的荷香让你心静如莲,钢城的夏,寂静美好。
当枫叶由绿变红,树梢好像也多了几点黄,清晨打扫院子,银杏叶不知何时摆出了它特有的姿态,像一把把被搁置的小扇子,被遗忘在时光里。真是一叶知秋。我不忍心打扫它们,索性泡一壶清茶,在这稍有凉意的清晨,等待太阳升起。太阳还暖暖的,玉米地却都黄了,胖胖的玉米棒子裂开了嘴等着收货。这时候的山里多了拎着麻袋的人。九头崖,五峰山,或是不知名的小山,栗子、山楂、柿子、野葡萄、酸枣、山梨、苹果,挤挤扛扛的成熟了,每次进山,都会有不同的收获。最爱家乡的野葡萄酿的葡萄酒,独特的口味让外来的游客必定想尽办法带走一些。还有山上的野菜也都成为钢城的名片,在勤劳的钢城人手里变成商品出口世界。山村里的小路边堆满了林条的架子,木耳,香菇,平菇,这些大树的孩子成为我们的美食,秋是喜乐的,忙碌的,最清闲的是漫山遍野的野菊花,静静地开放,为秋守望。当一串串玉米挂在屋檐,当农民开始犁地播撒下一季的种子,秋是收获的,也是充满希望的。当落叶铺满山间小径,当又一批小孩子背着书包踏入校门,秋就这样羽翼丰满的庇护着小城的人们。这样宁静而幸福的小城生活会一直美好着,延续着!
深夜的菲律宾还是有一丝凉意,我起身披上外套,想象着家乡的秋,明天,是否会有一片黄叶飘落窗台?拾起它夹在书页里,把家乡的色彩留进岁月的记忆。
静夜,思念雅望故乡小城的天空……
A Small Beautiful City
As a national expatriate teachers working in Philippines for more than half a year, I was assigned to a picturesque mountain city — Baguio. But What I miss the most, is still my hometown, which is known as the small town of southern country, Wuyang Iron and Steel Co., Ltd., now I am eagerly to go home by going through time and space.
If asked who is the most patriotic overseas Chinese, only the heart of the overseas Chinese; if asked who miss home the most, it is the people who are far away from home.
When disjoin the gate of my thought, the beauty of the home is in front of a frame transfer, I almost cry with tears. I love every inch of the hometown, every river, every piece of the stone, every piece of the falling leaf...... I want to lay in the spring of soft breathing the fragrance of rape, I want to swim in the summer in the enthusiasm and play with the fish, I would like to run in the autumn of fruitful in holding the kite dance, I want to be melt in the winter of pure feeling of warm embrace.
The Philippines has no seasons, although this mountain a year such as spring, always wearing a T-shirt, every day was like yesterday, I still miss my hometown with clear four seasons. Feel the charm of spring, summer, autumn and winter, to tomorrow, I am full of expectation; and to yesterday, deeply attached to it.! Do not experience the winter cold, how to feel the warm summer?
In the mid of December 2014, immediately to the winter solstice. In winter the steel city, the most distinctive, is the first winter deciduous clean trees, in the afterglow of sunset, proud as general silhouette. the people in Wugang who live in the mountains began to pick up the dry branches, leave the branches for the winter warming, or in the yard they baked sweet potato, roast pheasant, in short, to play with fire. It is the hottest games for children in the winter. From the beginning, they expect the snow very much, the old people always speak in the past when the winter has heavy snow. Yes, in my memory, there has been a scene frozen, in that time of the middle school for arts preparation, at night, we add a lesson painting, it’s 10 pm when we got home. in the warm street, three carrying slate of the middle school students, stepping the snow and playing slapstick home. More than 10 years past, the scene seems to be yesterday. Last year, the hometown of snow was also heavy, there was more than a foot thick snow, the whole world is really beautiful. At 6 o'clock in the morning, I and "clap friend" was about to take the snow scene, Candlestick Holder scenic rime is unique, when we entered the gate, no a footprint, this piece of virgin land, waiting for us to cultivate. Candlestick Holder of a mountain, a stone, a road, a pavilion, changed new clothes, between the black and white color and composition without framing, every angle can be picturesque. A shoot friend has a child, teenage appearance, only honest for a moment, playing the snow battle with us, which of us is not the opponent's child ah, guarding the camera would also hide a snowball, we simply put down equipment and play with children, a group of old children are much more than children who will play. Crazy tired of lying in the snow, surrounded by mountains, white is beautiful hug, playing happily. After that, the children let us together make a snowman, we and children together, the heap of the large and a few small plump snowman, we leave and let the snow man watch in the beauty of it. When we go out, the sun come to shoot the ice, it will be another scenery.
The cold winter has not receded, the spring is from the southern slope of the mountain, step by step the diversion, silent, first grass hard drilled head, sporadic green dyed woods, and then the ice of the lake open, spring so ripple up. Spring is a step-by-step climb willow, willow went out a bud suddenly, spring, so come. People climb out from the warm quilt, breathing the spring breath and grass fragrance, bit by bit, window pines also changed new clothes, occasionally a stuck in the window, like a mimosa, wake me in the bedroom. Oh, spring, I am unable to hold oneself back and relaxed, along with the pace of the spring, to see her footprints. Winter jasmine is yellow, the peach blossom pink, white pear flower, followed by rape, on the hillside, go through a step by step, vision and, no different, walking in the winding mountain road, green branches, Guinea is mid green, stroll the hillside, grass green, changes in that little bit of light green, really no more appropriate word to describe. Frank spring, you must personally walked to perceive, only one eye, the scroll spring song, fixed in your mind, for a lifetime. In the Mountain river lake, a small countryside girl also began to wash in the river, rolled up his sleeves and exposing the feet, with a wooden stick, laughing and the birds a shout of joy, and a fellow, Frank spring of life is so. In the western mountain of Wugang pocket a circle, back to the downtown of Longquan Lake, you don't want to sit in the car, along the lake bank, so many weeping willows, the wind blows it long hair, blowing your lust. This time flower fragrance, the Frank is in the sweet fragrance of Acacia, Erlang mountain of Flos Sophorae festival will attract people hundreds of miles, to the nature of the oxygen breathing, feel the charm of Flos Sophorae and winter food. At the moment, the mountain farm homes began to warm up, if not on weekends or holidays, but also love to eat meat and people from the city to find villa, mushrooms stewed pheasant, wild boar, sophora flower steamed stuffed bun, cage scrambled eggs, patches of crucian carp, pancake roll dishes... This makes me think of the water in a foreign country.. Home food, too temptation. Go outing after dinner, every inch of land is worth you frank, with feet to measure.
People always say that spring night is bitter and short, the spring in steel city, as if it was shorter, there is no enough time and embrace the spring , she went quietly to the north, summer in the first sound cicada calls coming. Unconsciously, on the back of the mountain woods has become a stroll, the girls in the street for the flying skirt, there are so many swimmers on lakeside beach, more tents are near the river in the mountain, barbecue begins. Most looking forward to catching crabs near the river in summer, like finding the treasure, watching a lot of fat crabs were put baskets fully, as if I can smell the fragrant crab, the harvest of their own labor. Occasionally catch a few fish, or meet loach, is an unexpected harvest. Sometimes there are shrimps, but I always can't catch, catch shrimp is in need of professional technology. Grandma said to me, When I met a little crab, I should put it back to the river, although my grandma has no big reason, but we also do so. In small riverside, in the woods, we set up the grill of barbecue, tied the hammock, the men began to prepare food, women and children play, picked up a stone, leaf paintings or take off the shoes playing in the river, summer is a paradise for children, the river was the child's partner. When the first ray of mutton smell to stimulate your taste buds, began to drink and eat with the big bowl, the scene both Liangshan hero nice and cool broad-minded, and the excellent persons in Lin Quan who has the wild ease comfortable feeling and sort of Grand View Garden in silty Xiangwa are cut fishy smell of mutton of gobbling up the active self willed. Next to perhaps there are small groups of shouting, playing finger game in five or in six, playing poker shouting, it doesn’t matter, as if people in the woods is a big family, regardless of you come from home, or distance, all of them are smile to say "hello", or is the exchange of each other's food tasting the next. People in steel city, is as warm as summer season and iced watermelon in the spring is the most delicious summer fruit, we cut the watermelon and gave diners at a nearby table, this sweet from the tip of the tongue of a sudden came to mind.
in the summer time, enjoy lotus is an essential to steel city. Not say a single lake or wild lotus with this kind of style, just Ruixiang animal husbandry million mu of ecological pond is enough to let you indulge in pleasures without stop. Painter, poet, photographer is a frequent visitor here, every lotuses covering every day every angle will show a different charm, or charming, or pure, or enchanting, you can imagine or think, the lotus, in a piece of blue waves quietly blooming. On the pond, like swimming in the picture, full of lotus let you calm summer lotus, the summer is steel city, quiet and beautiful.
When maple leaf turns from green to red, trees seem to have much a few yellow, early in the morning to sweep the courtyard, Ginkgo biloba did not know when placed its unique posture, like one small fan which is set aside, forgotten in time. It is a leaf which knows the autumn in the wind. I don't want to clean them, simply make a pot of tea, slightly cool in the morning, waiting for the sun to rise. The sun is warm, the corn is yellow, fat corn cobs split open the mouth waiting for the receipt. This time more bags of people in the mountains. Jiutou cliff, Wufeng mountain, or unknown hills, chestnut, hawthorn, persimmon, grapes, jujube, pear, apple, which squeeze and carry, being mature, each time when we enter the mountains, we will have different harvest. Favorite hometown wild grape wine, unique taste so that visitors will try to take some of the exotic. There are wild vegetables mountains which have become city card, in the hands of hard-working people in steel city, a commodity exports all over the world. Village beside the road filled with wood shelf, edible fungus, mushrooms, Pleurotus ostreatus, children of these trees become our food, autumn is the joy, busy, the leisure is all over the mountains and plains of the wild chrysanthemum, quietly open, watch for the autumn. When a string of corn is hanging from the roof, when farmers began to plough and sow the seeds of one season, autumn is harvest, but also full of hope. When the leaves covered with mountain trails, when a group of children back schoolbag entered the gates, autumn so full-fledged shelter people in a small town. Such a quiet and happy small town life will always be fine, continue!
In the Philippines in the middle of the night, still have a trace of coolness, I stood up and put on the coat, imagining the autumn in my hometown, tomorrow, will have a piece of yellow leaves falling sill? Pick it up and clip it in the page, leaving home the color of the years to stay in memory.
In the quiet night, miss the sky of my home town ......
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