2017年3月4号 狮子山鬼老结组 Note

时间：2017年3月4号，攀爬时间大概11:30-下午5点。

人员：乔阳和L

线路：HK Lion Rock，鬼老的前三个pitch和Wards Groove的后两个pitch，岩壁高度大概70m，线路攀爬长度100m左右。

接近方法：

深圳湾过关坐B2P转268C到天马苑，之后步行经过香港狮子山郊野公园大门，开始徒步，预计45分钟上山。到狮子脚的高度附近，离开大路走右手边的一条小路。

徒步路线，https://hongkongclimbing.com/guide/lion-rock/

爬west face，

Plan A：1号线前3段+2号线后2段

Plan B：如果2号线到时候有人，就爬1号线全段

Pitch 1 (F4+): Start up the grassy gully before trending right to blocks below a dark overlap. Follow a rightward trending flake to a belay at the base of the right hand corner.

Pitch 2 (F5): Take the right hand corner crack, belaying on the ledge above (as for Wards Groove).

Pitch 3 (F6b): Climb up the crack and chimney directly above the belay.

Pitch 4 (F6a+) Step left from the belay, using the tree if necessary, and climb onto the right hand side of the lions head. Finish up the short wall above.

下降比较容易出错。要冷静。

狮子山 Lion Rock west face

1 – Gweilo – F5+***

A Hong Kong Classic offering relatively amenable climbing in a stunning situation.

Pitch 1 (F4+): Start up the grassy gully before trending right to blocks below a dark overlap. Follow a rightward trending flake to a belay at the base of the right hand corner.

Pitch 2 (F5): Take the right hand corner crack, belaying on the ledge above (as for Wards Groove).

Pitch 3 (F5): Make a short traverse right and climb around the corner to a large ledge. Belay at its far side.

Pitch 4 (F5+): Climb a short way up the wall above before traversing right to a small tree (crux). Follow the grooves above to the summit. Rope signals should be prearranged for this pitch as communication is difficult.

F.A. G. Pilcher & T. Brown (1991)

2 – Wards Groove – F6b***

The original line up the crag and still one of its most interesting lines.

Pitch 1 (F4+): Start up the grassy gully before trending right to blocks below a dark overlap. Follow a rightward trending flake to a belay at the base of a corner. Little in the way of fixed protection, can be better protected with wires, friends etc.

Pitch 2 (HVS 5b): Take the left hand corner crack before swinging right to a belay just below the lions head. (Trad). This pitch can be avoided by climbing pitch 2 of Gweilo.

Pitch 3 (F6b): Climb up the crack and chimney directly above the belay.

Pitch 4 (F6a+) Step left from the belay, using the tree if necessary, and climb onto the right hand side of the lions head. Finish up the short wall above.

F.A. J. Ward & J. Bunnell (1958) – retrobolted sometime in the 1990’s

下降：Routes 1-10: Abseil down the line of Wards Groove / Gweilo