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#每天读一点服装史# BYZANTINE STYLE

#每天读一点服装史# BYZANTINE STYLE

作者: 末小闲 | 来源:发表于2017-05-22 07:02 被阅读0次

BYZANTINE STYLE

476 - 600CE

After the fall of Rome in 476CE, Constantinople (present-day Istanbul) became the center of the Byzantine world.

With the rise of the empire came opulence and a fusion of Greek, Roman, Middle Eastern, and Oriental styles.

Clothes indicated social status.

The richest and grandest figures, exemplified by the Emperor Justinian I and his consort Theodora, had their long, flowing gowns of richly patterned silks encrusted with jewels and gold thread.

The veils and silks worn by women, and the T-shaped tunics and cloaks worn by men, were developed from Roman official dress.

Some of the garments, notably the pallium (cloak), chasuble (outer garment), and dalmatikon (wide-sleeved tunic), were formalized into vestments of the Orthodox and Catholic churches.

Poor working people wore plain wool tunics, knee-length for men, with leggings, boots, and a long cloak on top.

#每天读一点服装史# BYZANTINE STYLE

EMPRESS THEODORA

"May I never be without the purple I wear, nor live to see the day when men do not call me ' Your Majesty,'" proclaimed Theodora in 532CE, in defiance of the revolt against her husband Justinian's rule.

The empress's lavish dress emphasized her wealth and status.

Gold thread decorated her garments, which were colored with expensive Tyrian purple dye and embroidered with jewels.

#每天读一点服装史# BYZANTINE STYLE

Her fashion influence has traveled down through the centuries-designer Karl Lagerfeld drew on Theodora's embellished style for his Paris-Byzance Spring 2011 collection for Chanel.

Chanel 2012FW

--《THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE》

拜占庭风格

公元476年-600年

公元476年罗马沦陷之后,君士坦丁堡(今天的伊斯坦布尔)成为拜占庭世界的中心。

随着这个帝国的兴起,带来了富裕与融合着希腊,罗马,中东和东方的风格。

服饰显示社会身份。

最富有伟大的人物代表,拜占庭皇帝贾斯蒂尼安一世和他的配偶狄奥多拉,在他们长长的流动着浓烈图案的丝绸长袍上,缀满了珠宝和黄金丝线。

#每天读一点服装史# BYZANTINE STYLE

女性佩戴面纱veil与丝绸,男性穿着由罗马官服演变而来的T型袍子tunics和披肩。

有一些服装特别是帕留姆pallium(披风),十字塔chasuble(弥撒时神父穿的外衣)以及加冕服dalmatikon(宽袖袍子),正式成为东正教和天主教教会的法衣。

贫穷的劳动者穿着平针朴素的羊毛袍子,长度到男性膝盖,搭配打底裤,靴子和长披风。

#每天读一点服装史# BYZANTINE STYLE

狄奥多拉皇后

"可能我永远都不会穿紫色以外的衣服,也不会活着听到人们不再叫我“陛下”的那天,“狄奥多拉皇后在公元532年宣称,对反叛她丈夫的人表示蔑视。

皇后奢华的礼服突出了她的财富和地位。

金丝线装饰的衣物,用的是昂贵的提尔紫色染料,并绣上珠宝。

她的时尚影响力穿越了几个世纪 -- 设计师卡尔拉格菲尔德曾经将狄奥多拉风格用到他2011年香奈儿的春季系列作品中。

D&G 2013FW

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