无聊是强有力的创意催化剂。如果你觉得我在一本正经的胡说八道，来看看隔离在家的人们都在Instagram上整出了怎样的脑洞吧。
Boredom is a deep motivating power of creativity. If this sounds like a paradoxical nonsense to you, check out the best quarantine looks on Instagram.
#MetGalaChallenge
#covidclassics
#quarantinefashionweek
疫情创造出一系列的Instagram标签，也炸出了一大堆民间艺术家。除了模仿名画和明星走秀，这场全球性的禁足也让人们发现了平时被忽视的爱好，比如手工制作。
The physical confinement of covid-19 has given birth to multiple hashtags and uncovered many grassroot artists. Apart from replicating celebrity looks or famous paintings, people have also taken the chance for their neglected hobbies, for example, making your own garments.
年轻人对于定制、改造、重构衣服的兴趣在疫情期间越来越浓厚，这种趋势能够通过改造、二次出售衣物以及DIY材料的巨幅增长需求中看出。
Young people are increasingly interested in customising, upcycling and reconstructing clothes amid Covid-19, as shown by a spike in upcycling, resale and increased consumption of DIY clothing supplies.
——Vogue
隔离期DIY潮流
Top quarantine DIY trends
在《意大利疫情期网课如何上》一文中，我们与意大利设计学院探讨了疫情期间学生如何利用身边的材料完成设计项目。实际上，在这场疫情之中，就地取材是很多人发挥创造力的方法。
In the articleGet a taste of Italian design schools, we discussed with Italian design schools on how they encouraged students to realize design projects with materials they find at home. Actually, exerting creativity with daily banal materials are the choice of many people.
扎染 Tie-dye
扎染是隔离期间最热的DIY趋势，以至于4月亚马逊上销量最高的艺术产品就是扎染工具套装。
Tie-dying clothes is the hottest quarantine pastime, so much that the tie-dye kit became one of the biggest selling art and crafts products on Amazon in April.
Lauren Riihimaki, LaurDIY/YouTube; Jordyn Rebecca/YouTube
扎染复刻了60年代的风格。它的流行得益于它十分简单，成本低，所需材料极少。实际上有很多人在高中的手工课上都做过扎染，没想到这次疫情能让它重返流行。
As a reminiscent of 60s' fashion, tie-dye is extremly popular during this time because it requires minimal supplies at a relatively low cost. Actually many people have done tie-dying in art classes in high school, and they never expected it to become a huge fashion comeback this year.
漂白牛仔裤 Bleached jeans
与扎染一样，漂白牛仔裤也无需过多材料——一条牛仔裤，一瓶消毒水就可以了。它也自然成为了很多人DIY的选择。
Similar to tie-dye, bleaching denim also requires minimal supplies—a pair of jeans and some disinfecting bleach will work.
@brittanyxavier - @jennatp
最流行的方法就是只漂白牛仔裤的一条腿，这种风格呼应了80年代的潮流。基本上只需三个步骤就能完成：将漂白水小心地倒在一条裤腿上，等待两个小时，再用冷水漂洗。
Some of the most popular projects include bleaching just one leg of the jeans. In a matter of three simple steps—carefully pour bleach on one pant leg, wait two hours and rinse with cold water—crafters can achieve the popular 80s' look.
缝补 Mending
缝补一件穿旧的衣物能将它的使用寿命延长。缝补的行为，曾经意味着贫穷、节俭，现在有了新的含义——可持续的理念，以及与快时尚的对峙。
Mending a worn-out item instead of throwing it away extends its use-life, and this practice used to be associated with poverty and thriftness. But now it signifies a sustainability method and a call out against fast fashion.
通常来说，修补衣物时会技巧性地将缝补的痕迹隐藏起来。但是作为一种潮流，大胆明显的缝补痕迹甚至大面积的补丁恰恰是最这种风格最值得骄傲的装饰元素。
Conventionally, mending is meant to be concealed and invisible. But as a fashion trend, visible and proud mending stiches are precisely the fundamental decorative elements.
@blue_blue_japan,【2020 SPRING & SUMMER】
李维斯已推崇个性化牛仔多年，疫情期间它的官方博客上更新了很多DIY的内容，包括视频、图片和分解教程，教大家用缝补技术来制作独一无二的牛仔。
Levi's had pushed for customising denim for years, and amid the global lockdown they offered numerous DIY contents on their official blog, completed with videos, pictures and step-by-step tutorials on making one-of-a-kind denim pieces, in which mending techniques played a great role.
Levi’s tutorial on customizing denim jackets
我们这一代有很多人和我一样充满创意，喜欢去二手的东西里面找发挥的空间，并善于发掘自身的艺术潜能。
In this generation there are lots of people like myself who are just creatives that see potential in the second-hand items and potential in themselves as artists.
——Daniel Walters (@sadsac),
one of Depop’s highest sellers
Daniel Walters
Z世代的新规则
Gen Z's new rules of style
根据麦肯锡的数据，Z世代（出生在1995-2010之间）已经逐渐成为消费主力——占全球消费者的40%。而他们的喜好和习惯也在塑造着整个时尚市场。
Generation Z (born roughly between 1995-2010) accounts for 40 percent of global consumers by 2020, according to Mckinsey. Fashion market is greatly shaped by their preferences by now.
Gen Z Instagrammers @ YouTube and TikTok convention Playlist Live, Orlando 2020
对于成长在信息时代，精通社交媒体的这一代人而言，最无聊的事情莫过于看起来千篇一律。追求个性与差异化是Z世代风格的重中之重。
For these hyperconnected digital natives, who are adept at gaining and sharing information on social media, looking different is paramount as they believe strongly in owning one’s individuality.
这些年轻的消费者十分重视社会与环保，而这些价值观都投射到他们的消费习惯上——比起千禧一代（出生在1983-1995之间），Z世代消费者更加理性，也更加关注产品的可持续性及其背后的理念。
These younger consumers are also seriously concerned with social and environmental causes, and they increasingly back their beliefs with their shopping habits. In comparison to their millenial counterparts (born roughly between 1983-1995), Gen Z represents more rational consumers, and they focus more on the sustainability and ethics behind products.
疫情催化的这一阵DIY潮流正与Z世代的风格需求不谋而合，因此这批年轻人迅速而广泛的响应并不令人惊奇。
It is therefore not suprising to see how quickly and extensively these young people picked up the surging DIY trend accelerated by the global lockdown.
Depop平台的活动量十分明显地反应了这个趋势。这个将电商与社媒结合的平台九成用户在25岁以下，大部分的商品都是年轻用户上传的定制、改造或重构的个性产品。它在今年三月见证了同比65%的销售增长。
Activity on Depop is a great barometer. As something between e-commerce and social media, 90% of Depop's users are under 25, and the majority of listings on the platform are customised, upcycled or reconstructed products uploaded by its young users. It has seen a 65% increase in sales in March in comparison with the same period last year.
品牌能够通过提供更多实用资源来加入这场DIY潮流。我们可以用一些多余的材料来鼓励年轻人的创造。
Brands can get involved by providing practical resources for DIY fashion. We can take some of this stuff and empower a movement of young people.
——Ben Harms
@ youth creative agency Archrival
品牌怎么玩
Brands in the game
消费者都自己去做衣服了，品牌的销量会面临困境吗？其实不然，这也许是品牌与消费者建立深刻联系的机会。让独立设计师和有创意的年轻人加入到品牌的叙事里面来，实际上能够延展品牌的影响。
While it seems that teaching consumers to make their own cloths could cannibalize sales, many brands have taken this opportunity to engage with consumers and independent designers and promote the longevity of fashion.
#McQueen Creators
Alexander McQueen, Dior和Ganni都积极鼓励粉丝参与到不同的手工挑战中来，比如个性化的刺绣。
Alexander McQueen, Dior and Ganni all encouraged their followers to participate in different crafty challenges, such as embroidery customisation.
经典小黄靴品牌CAT（Caterpillar）与有创意的年轻人合作发布新产品，更有效地触达到年轻的观众，为他们呈现有吸引力的独特产品。
Caterpillar is working with young creatives to customise newly launched products, reaching new audiences and making appealing items to young shoppers.
而Dickies则发现了利用库存面料的好方法——将它们出售或赠送给想要DIY的年轻人。一方面解决了尴尬的无用库存，另一方面与一群热衷于创意的年轻观众建立情感联系。
Clearly, Dickies saw an opportunity in selling and giving away its deadstock fabrics to to establish connection with a burgeoning audience who is looking for hobbies in the lockdown.
在中国市场，便捷的电商文化仿佛与鼓励动手的DIY潮流不太兼容。尽管如此，品牌还是能找到契机让我们这些“懒”消费者也更简单地体验到DIY的快乐。实际上，个性定制产品早已是一个针对年轻人的重要策略了，Nike By You，Vans Customs，Converse By You便是典型案例。
Although in China the hyped e-commerce convenience dominates over hands-on DIY culture, brands have found easier ways for "lazy" consumers to create their own fashion items. Customization had already been a profitable strategy for brands to address the young people. Nike By You, Vans Customs, Converse By You are among the greatest examples.
Nike By You
Vans Customs
Converse By You
时代在变化，消费者的需求也在变化。我们渐渐习惯疫情带来的新常态，同时对可持续又有了新理解。很多趋势可能会随着这次危机的结束而退出历史舞台，但DIY时尚，作为一个既环保又个性的选择，会不会留下来，成为下一个风口呢？
Time changes, so are the needs of customers. As we gradually step into the new normal, we are pushed to understand further implications of sustainability. Some trends may fade when the crisis ends, but is DIY fashion-the both individualized and sustainable option- going to stay and become the next big thing?
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