“登瀛梨雪”,为1936年青岛市政府组织评选的青岛十景之一。登瀛,位于崂山沙子口街道驻地东北,陡阡口以东,崂山路北侧,西与岭西村相连,东与小河东村接壤,三面环山,北依崂山,南邻大海,是崂山西麓的一块肥沃的小盆地。当年,登瀛村的村民多以种梨为业,山前山后遍植梨树。每当清明过后,“千树万树梨花开”,洁白的梨花宛如雪压枝头,漫山遍野,只见梨花千顷雪,不知花里有人家,因此而得“登瀛梨雪”之名。





登瀛村的先民曾以伐树烧炭为生,后因烧炭用的檀、柞、楸等林木伐净,遂弃炭窑迁居别地。明永乐二年,有王、李两大氏族迁来这里,见此遍布炭窑,遂将定居之地名为“登窑”。上世纪30年代,时任青岛市长的沈鸿烈考评出这里曾是当年为秦始皇求不死药的徐福伐木造船的地方,故改“登窑”为“登瀛”。随着人丁的繁衍,登瀛村后又分为前登瀛、后登瀛、西登瀛和小河东等村子。




据史料记载,至少在清光绪之前,登瀛村的梨树栽植就已颇具规模。光绪年间高密文人孙凤云曾有诗赞“登瀛梨雪”,诗曰:崎岖尽处落平川,菘圃椒梨接稻田。三面峰峦一面海,千重竹树百重泉。屋多跨水斜分径,帆远依山高入天。此是东崂名胜地,教人错认武陵仙。





登瀛村前的登瀛湾,登瀛湾是崂山南麓三大海湾之一。《崂山续志》中记载:“登窑旧有口岸……秋间椒梨熟时,渔筏之外,船舶綑载,与江南通贸易。”因为不愁销路,获利又远胜于种植庄稼,因此便出现了“人人栽梨树,家家有梨园”的盛况。直到上世纪80年代初,登瀛村周围仍有大片的梨园,很多老树已有逾百年的树龄。2003年,香港电影《恋之风景》曾专程来登瀛拍摄,片中如诗如画的场景,让“登瀛梨雪”成为许多观众旅游的向往。






清末曾任京师大学堂总监劳乃宣寓居青岛时,经常到登瀛一带游览,其《看梨花》诗曰:杨柳轻风拂面吹,家山深处访幽姿。霜凌绝壁三千仞,雪翦平原十万枝。新麦几畦围翠浪,小桃一树衬丹脂。归途更觉花光盛,正是斜阳欲下时。





不过,现在“登瀛梨雪”这一青岛的老十景却面临着消失的命运。随着经济的发展、崂山旅游业和崂山茶业的兴起,个大肉粗的崂山窝梨市场销售日渐萧条,村民们纷纷改行,弃梨而大量植茶,百年梨树大多被砍伐,剩下的也多已无人照管,“登瀛梨雪”盛景不再。据了解,目前仅前登瀛村有一处梨园尚有梨树五六十棵,小河东的百年梨园中还有一百多棵,尚可管中一窥“登瀛梨雪”当年的盛景。





小河东村的梨园也是一处百年梨园,位于大河东崂山游客服务中心附近,崂山路北侧,大河东公交车站东面,面积80余亩,去年统计仅百年以上的树龄的梨树就多达百余棵,最高树龄则在120年以上,而且是优秀的崂山窝梨品种。近些年新种的也有不少,园中还间种了不少桃树。这两年都去过这座百年梨园,园内的梨树枝干虬曲苍劲,状若游龙,花白如雪,暗香袭人。花,固然好看,但遒劲有力、虬曲峥嵘的枝干也是一道美丽的风景线。吸引着众多的摄影爱好者和游人来此前来赏花拍摄,且乐此不疲。




梨花淡白柳深青,柳絮飞时花满城。 惆怅东栏一株雪,人生看得几清明!——【宋】苏轼





梨花落尽柳花时,庭树流莺日过迟。几度相思不相见,春风何处有佳期。——【唐】武元衡




虬枝曲干状若龙,玉树琼葩舞长空。百龄老树犹雄健,崂山窝梨亦著名。——花开终归谢




风前欲劝春光住,春在城南芳草路。未随流落水边花,且作飘零泥上絮。镜中已觉星星误,人不负春春自负。梦回人远许多愁,只在梨花风雨处。——【南宋】辛弃疾




粉淡香清自一家,未容桃李占年华。常思南郑清明路,醉袖迎风雪一杈。——《梨花》【宋】陆游




三月雪连夜,未应伤物华。只缘春欲尽,留著伴梨花。——《嘲三月十八日雪》【唐】温庭筠




梨花满院飘香雪,高楼夜静风筝咽。斜月照帘帷,忆君和梦稀。小窗灯影背,燕语惊愁态。屏掩断香飞,行云山外归。——《菩萨蛮》【五代】毛熙震




梨花风起正清明,游子寻春半出城。日暮笙歌收拾去,万株杨柳属流莺。——【宋】吴惟信




小河东的百年梨园虽仅是当年“登瀛梨雪”盛景的缩影,但也圆了人们寻找“登瀛梨雪”美景之梦。百年梨树,虬枝古树,如雪繁花,花、树均是一景,给人以深刻印象,使人称颂。愿这仅剩余的梨园不再缩小,期盼有朝一日能再现“登瀛梨雪”之盛景。失去的不会再有,珍惜当前,期待未来。


网友评论