Xil Hus D Xues Jigh Zhogj Jigd Wen
Coglai tanlun Xil Hus zh shegjigh d, dadid zhumu yu chun xiah liag gic; erw gew di youker, y do yu ci shih pianfran lailinr. -- Qiugic yousren yih jians shao, ruz dogh hou, ze geg xigb shulo l. Zhe dagzhog ziwran you yiwzhizd qiwran d daolix. Chun xiah zh jian, qiwens henuan, hus shag fegwut, yigshih jiarr shegq, ho "za huac sheg shum, qun yigfn luan fei", ho "yusm qigh ouf lufn zhegq fei, fuds meiy hec feg jianct shuagb", dou s yao jiaoy ren juanjuanp bu iid wagqig d. Yu ci shijiec, waglai hus shag, chenzuih yu roumeirt fagxinbx d qigweik zhog, shuiw sho bu yiggai ne? Danw s chun huac gul ke'ai, qiuh yue bu s y yao shirz ren xiaohunx me? Si shih d yanh jigh butog, erw zhen shagt zher gew neg der qiw jiaqux; bugoz, zhe weiw iid yiw lun yu yibanb ren bad l. Gao Shenb Furq xiansheg ceg gaosuk goz women: "row neg gao lagh qiw huaix, kuagh daz qiw ii, chaoz chent top sur, bie juw tian yan, land jigh hui xin, bianw der zhen qux." Women suiw bu chegcai danw duiyu xianxianr zhezhogc shenb yu tiyand d hua, y renx zhiw dagzod quan wu guanxiy d erbianfeg me? Ziw Sogl Chao yilai, pig zhagk Xil Hus fegjigh d, you soweikc "Xil Hus shihg jigh, Qianj Tagt shihg jigh" zh sho, suiw limian y ceg lieruz "Duan Qiao canj xues", "Gurr Shan gisy xues" liag g migmu, danw shigishag, zhen d hui qu shagwand zhezhogc qigs hans bu hen jinz qig d jighzhizd d, pa meiyou doshao ren bak. <Si Shih Yout Shagt Luy> d zhuc zher, zai "Dogh Shih Yout Shagt" menm zhog, yank jiw xues jigh d, jih zhanq shihg fen d qihg bah, qiw migmu you "xues gisy cec jianzb xund meim", "San Maoc Shan digp wagp jiags tian xues gisy", "Xil Xisx daol zhog wand xues", "sao xues pegh chac wand huay", "xues yeh weih yuct tan chanx", "shan chuag tig xues qiaod zhucz", "xues hou Zhenjs Hais Lou guanp wanh chuih" deg. Qizhog da ban so shuk jigse, duk l bujinq yic ren shenxsixx, gul bu tuz wen ziy cuic meib erw yih. Danw ta s yi weir xiaosas chuchent d migshir, soyiw neggou you ci dujuw xinyan d yout shagt; women yifagmian ziwran peifu ta xinqig d shenb zhansc, ligw yifagmian que y keyiw zhegy chu neg liglue ci zhog aoxm weik zher zh soyiw xishao d biqran l.
Xil Hus d xues jigh, w gogw wand l liag cih. Dih yi cih s zai ci jian chuh xia xues d dih san tian. W yu wuhz qian shihg dian zhogj shih cai chuqu. Yi g ren cog xiaol menm chegj huagbaoche dao hus bins xia che, tubuz zou chu Qianj Tagt Menm. Jig Bai Dit, xuanzhuan ruz Gurr Shan Lu. Yansb Gurr Shan xil xig, dao Xil Ligsq Qiao, zhed youw da daol huilai. Ci cih xues ben bu da, jiayiw chuqu shijian taib chib, shanyel shag gaic z d, da dou yih xiaos qu, soyiw meiyou shenme dogren zh chul. Xianzai w yao xib shuk d, s dih erh cih d chogb yous. Na tian s yi yue nianh si ri. Yinwei zai chuagm shag gan dao iiwai bigleg zh guw, qigchenh chuh xigxs lai shih, w bianw yuzhi zoxiaohy s xia l xues. Gomran, dag w dakai fagm menm yi kan shih, duimian fagwum d wat shag quan biancheg bai se l, tianjigts zhog yi zhumz muximm huac d zhiyec shag, y nianb zhuiy z yi xiao duit yi xiao duit d bai fenw. Xiagxib dd kan qu, juex der bi riqian liag san huiz so xia d dou lai der da xie. Yinwei yiqian d, suiwran y pugaic l wudigp, danw youxie wat gous shag que regran s hei se, zhe tian que yi se dd bai z, jue shao pu bu yunb d difag l. Bigqiew dou houhoub d, yuemod you yi liag cunz gao d chegdu. Riqian d xues, suiwran pu man l wudigp, danw yu muximm huac shum, que haoxiagr quan wu guanxiy shiwde, ci huiz taw ke bumiand shoud yigxiagk l, zhe y s xues lo der bijiaow da xie d migzhegy.
Lao Lim zhaolir s qi der hen chib d, youshih w shag l liag kek xialai, cai kanjianp ta zai fagm li chuan yifu, yubeid shag bangogtigm qu. Zhe tian, w qilai pao dao ta d fagm li, ba ta jiaok xigxs zh hou, ta youwr dai z jih fen shuip'ii dd wenk w: "Lao Zhogj, jintian waimian you meiyou xia xues?" W huidak ta sho: "budanw you ne, bigqiew pop da." Ta qichuh huaiyix z, zhib daiz w ba chuag nei d baibuy many lakai, rag ta wagjianp l wudigp cai ken xiagxinr. "Lao Zhogj, women jintian dao Ligx Yind qu shuadzi bak?" ta hen gaoxigq dd sho. W "hegk" d yig l yi shegk, bianw huiz dao zijir d fagm li lai l.
Women zai xiaol menm shag che shih, dayuey yih jiuh dian zhogj zoyoul l. Shih xiao yus feifeisy, leg feg fuds ren ru pos shui. Cog chelianyz liag pag queb chul wagp chuqu, lu pag gao qi zh di, h soyou yiqie gaodibupig d wudigp, dou sa z baimianfenw shiwde, youh ru puchenl z xinb daq hao d mianbei yibanb. Jiez shag d yih da ban biandcheg xues nis, chezi zai shagmian niant goz, bujue dd fachu jijiks d shegyink, yuw chelunj zhuandog shih moca z zhogjian hegmum d yinxiagk xiagza.
Women dao l hus bins, bianw huand degz qiss che. Wagz shih zhe tiao luxiany d dad ker s pop renaoq d, xianzai que hen liglo l. Tog che d bu dao shihg g ren, wei aoyous erw lai d kerren hai pa meiyou yi ban. Dag che shifj goz Bai Dit shih, women xiagl che wai tiaowagp nei wai hus fegjigh, danw jianp yipian mimegw d shuiqiss mimans z, duimian d shanfegt, zhiyou yi g jihuw bianx bu qigchum d boc yigh. Gec Ligt, Baot Shit Shan zhe bian, yinwei juliz bijiaow mierz d yuanguw, shan shag d jic xues h shum mum, dalue keyiw kan der chulai; danw di weir jiaow gao d Baor Churz Tat, bianw xiant yu meglogh zhog l. Dao Xil Ligsq Qiao jinqian shih, zaiw huiz wagp hus zhog, jianp Hus Xin Tigmt si weil kum tur d shuganw, haosirx qiex hans banb dd zai nali daib lip z, w bujinq lianxiag qi <Taot Anlm Meg Iixh> zhog yi duanw qig cik jurq yout jue d wenziy lai:
Chogt Zhenxx wuh nian shihg erh yue, yur zhur Xil Hus. Da xues san ri, hus zhog ren niao shegk jurq jue. S ri geg dig, yur nad yi xiao zhouj, yogd cuif yiy luh hoh, dub wagz hus xin tigmt kan xues. Wus sogs hags dagt, tian yuw yun yuw shan yuw shui, shag xia yi bai. Hus shag yigh zi, weixs Chag Dit yi henxj, hus xin tigmt yi dian yuw yur zhouj yi jiecd, zhouj zhog ren liag san lic erw yih. Dao tigmt shag, you liag ren pu zhanym dui zop, yi togr zi shaoh jiuhh luh zheg feis. Jianp yur, da xix yueky: "hus zhog yanw der geg you ci ren !" la yur tog yinks. Yur qiag yinks san da bai erw bie. Wenk qiw xigr shirr, s Jinj Ligl ren, ker ci. Jiw xia chuanj, zhouj zi nank nank yueky: "mow sho xiagm gog chixd, geg you chixd sirx xiagm gog zher! " (<Hus Xin Tigmt Kan Xues>) bu zhi zhe shih d Hus Xin Tigmt shag, shagw you ci zhogc chixd ren fou? Xin li bujuex mossran l yi hui. Che goz Xil Ligsq Qiao yihou, che zanh shifj xig yu liag bian shanligt linmum lianjie z d yel daol zhog. Soyou d shan shag, dou duit jic z hen houb d xues kuait, suiwran buneg ru wat wum shag nayag pu tiant der junyunb pubianz, na yipianpian qigs bai d guagcaiy, que jinb gou shirz w gan dao yuzhouhy d qigs hans, zhuagr kuagh yuw chunjies! Chaglioshum d zhiyec hou so duit z d xues, h kum shum shag d, hen you chabie. Qian zher yinwei you yeczi chento z zh guw, xues shag tebie duijic der da kuait dian, yuanyuanz wagp qu, ru kai man l bai d shanchac huac, ho wuwd xiaglc d shuijinyd huac. Hou zher, ze zhiyou yi xiao kuait d xues pian neggou zai shagmian nianb z bu zhuilo xiaqu, yuw gag zhow huac d meim lim shum jue dd xiagsirx. Shizai, w chucih jihuw ba naxie jinz zai lu pag d jih zhumz co renk l. Yel shag ban huag ho quan chiy l d kum cao, do ya zai liag san cunz houb d xues ruy xiamian; youxie zhimtiao ruanro d shum, y bei yaiiq der qibx qibx daor daor d. Lu shag xigren hen xishao. Daol pag yel ren d wum li, shih jianp you yizhow pojiuhc erw benzhogb d laoren, togrzi, zai weil z holuh qunuan. Kan l na gupum qigpint d qigkuag, fagfurf ligj w zanshih waghuaix l women so chul shidair d fenrao, fanruyf l.
Dao l Ligx Yind shan menm, women bianw xia che l. Yi zou jinqu, kogqis guai qigleg d, budanw meiyou youker, wagz shih naxie maij nianx zhut, guh qianj, Tian Zhul kuaizi d xiaofanjzi y bu jianp l. Shit daol shag pu jic z pop shenb d xues nis. Fei Lai Fegt shushulolo dd zhow l xudo xues kuait, Qigs Ligsq Tigmt jiw qita jianzhuwut d digp mian, yi lir d mib gaic z chunbaise d zhanym tany. Yi g paiq zhaoh d, dag women gag jin menm shih, bianw jinjiny dd gen zai houmian. Yinwei Lao Lim d gaoxigq, women bianw zai Qigs Ligsq Tigmt pag zhaoh l liag g yigh.
Haoqixin dadog z w, shirz w ganjuex dao yanqian so kan dao d zh bu manzuz, erw geg xiagl chuljigt jiaow yout shenb d Taoj Guag Anlm qu. W yout qiaox dd jinb yic z buz xiagl qian zou, Lao Lim y bu shegzhagq dd gen z w. Cog Ligx Yind Sil dao Taoj Guag Anlm d zhe tiao shan jigz, shigishag suiw bu jianp zenyag d chag, danw pop shenb quk erw raok yu fegzhizd. Zhe li d xues, yao bi chegl zhog h hus shag gew chul d dou da xie. Zai jigz shag d xues kuait, dayuey you ban chiz lai houb, liag pag shum shag d jic xues, y bi lai lu shag so jianp d nogzhogb. Ceg lai youwand goz d ren, gai buhui waggi d bak, zhe tiao lu shag liag pag s zenyag d fanzhips z gao gao d lioy zhucz. Zhe shih, zhucz zhim h zhucz yec shag, da dou zhow man l xues, xiagl xia didib dd chuib z. <Si Shih Yout Shagt Luy> "shan chuag tig xues qiaod zhucz" tiao yun: "fei xues you shegk, weixs zai zhucz jian zui yab. Shan chuag hans yeh, shih tig xues sas zhucz lin; xisl lisx xiaoc xiaoc, lianz pianf sek sek, shegk yunk youxj ran, iiz w qigs tig. Hux ery huiz feg jiao jib, zhed zhucz yi shegk, shirz w hans zhanym zeg leg." Zhe zhogc fegweik, kexixz w meiyou fufen xiaoshoud.
Zai dogtian, benlai s youker leglo d shihouh, hekuag zheyag yus xues qigleg d rizi ne? Soyiw dag women pao dao anlm li shih, bie d yousren yi g dou meiyou, -- zhe zai women shag shan shih kan shan jigz shag d zugiz bianw keyiw xiaoh der d -- erw segren d yanse li, bigqiew y you yi zhogc juex der guaiiib d biaoshixy. Women yizhib pao shag zui hou d Guanp Hais Tigmt. Na li shit jielt shagxia dou houhoub dd duit man l shuimos shiwde xues, tigmt qian d shum shag, xues zhow der hen zhogb, zai xues d xiacegm big jiey l bigkuait. Pag bian you jih zhumz shanchac huac, zheg zai yany kai z fenhogse d huadoc. Na huadoc youxie zhuit xialai d, ban yanq zai xues huac li, hog bai xiagyighz, secaiy canhran, shirz women gan dao hual erw bu sur, qigs erw bu hans. Yin erw liand iixh qi na "tian hans cui xiuy boc, ri muh yirp xiu zhucz" d meibren'er lai.
Degz shag zhe tigmt, zai pigri s keyiw jinz kanp Xil Hus, yuanz wagp Zhes Jiags, shenwz erw zhiyu piaomiaoy d cags hais d, ke s cikej que buneg l. Liz anlm bu yuanz d shanligt, seg fagm, zhucz shum, shagw mianqiag ke jianp, shaow yuanz ze fegsoj zai mags moss d yanwus li l.
Kog zhaix tazz bil wor, hux meg xisx shan hao. Chao qif tur weif liof, lai xund xues zhog daol. Shit bil yinz gurr sogm, chag kog mei fei niao. Bu jianp yuanz shan heg, hans yanh qi lin miaom. (<Xues Zhog Degz Huag Shan>) W yirp z tigmt zhum, momob dd zai jujuekj z Wag Yufy Yags zhe shoup wuh yank shikc d qigs miaor; youqiw s jieweif liag juk, geg daopo l xues jigh d san meihy. Danw sho budig xudo meiyou jigyand d ren, yao wagr xiaox taw s wu weik d shijuk ne. Wen’iic d zhen shagjianjb, benlai s jianw bu rog'iid d shix, zhe youh hebiq dodoks jianguai? Zijir jiesho l yi fanw, xin li y jiu shikjran l.
Benlai nid zai seg fagm li chi suy mian d, bu zhi weishenme, jigw pao dao shan menm qian d jiuhh lou hek jiuhh l. Lao Lim buneg do hek, w yi g ren y jiu wu do xigzhizd ganw beim l. Zai nali, w ba zai shan jigz shag dai xialai d yi tuan leg xues, fagd jin zai jiuhh beim li huns z hek. Tag guanrm kan l sho: "zhe s digp shag d bigjiligs ne."
Ban yinwei deg bu dao qiss che, ban yinwei xiag do wand yidian xues jigh, women jueii buzxig dao Yuet Fent cai jiaok huajzi qu yous hus. Yi lu shag, suiwran zou d s lai shih qiss che jiggoz d guw daol, danw zai tubuz guanshagt zhog, bumiand juex der geg you qigweik l. Women d geq liozx, taz z yi liag cunz houb d xues nis qianjin, pinpinz dd fachu yi zhogc qigcuib d shegyink. Youshih lu pag shuzhim shag d xues kuait, huxran diao l xi lai, zhow zai women d waitao shag, zheg qianren soweikc "yut zhuit bigs kemz, zhans yiy sheg shis" d qigjigh. W chib huiz z w d buliozx, kozhan z w d ship yutq, youszran you yi maip nogzhogb erw ligx mix d shikc qig, fus shag w d xintou lai, shirz w youtran ii yuanz, mossran shenx nigs. Zhegl Qiyz dui ren sho zijir d shikc sixx, zai Bas Qiao xues zhog, liof beip shag, zhen s guai dogx der qux'er d shofas!
Dag women zai Yuet Wag Miaol qian degz zhouj shih, xues youh fenfeny di xia qilai l. Hus li chuq l women d yi zhiw xiao huajzi yiwai, zaiw kan bu dao bie d zhouj jiml. Pig hus momoss, yiqie dou chenmob wu huak. Zhouj chuan goz Xil Ligsq Qiao, huanb fans Li Xil Hus zhog, Gurr Shan h duimian zhuw shan jiw shagxia d lou tigmt, fagwum, dou bai l tou, zai feg xues zhog wub lip z. Shan jigz shag, wagp bu jianp yi g ren yigh; hus mian lianz shuiniao dou meiyou zoggiz, zhiyou luan piaod d xues huac zhuit xia shih, weib qi xie lianyis eryih. Lium Zogx Yuanh shikc yun: "Qianh shan niao fei jue, wan jigz ren zogz mie. Gurr zhouj soc licd weg, dub diaoj hans jiags xues." W xiag zhe shih rugom you yi g yufy weg zai chuidiaoj, taw hen keyiw jied lai shomigh yanqian d jigwut ne.
Zhouj jiag shifj jinz Duan Qiao d shihouh, xues huac fei piaod der geg qiw ligluan. Women xiagl beil yi mian d waitao, chabudo da ban bai erw qiew shis l. Feg y sihuw chui der gewai jiny jind xie, w d lian buneg xiagl taw chui lai d fagmian wagp qu. Yinwei geq liozx shens jin l xues shui d yuanguw, shuag zuz youby bigdogs der nan renx. Zhe shih, coglai bu do kai goz kou d zhoujzi, huxran wenk women sho: "nimen juex der ci chul bijiaow hanleg me?" women wenk ta shenme yuanguw. Jud sho s Baot Shit Shan yi dai d xues shan feg chui golai d yuanyin. W yushi momob dd xigq xiag dao zhishik d fanweil h taw d hoder deg zhogda d wentip shag qu l.
Women dao hus bins degz anl shih, yih s xiawuhz san dian yur zhogj l. Gogyuanll zhog gew chul dou duit man l xues, youxie yih biancheg ninigs. Chuq l jishaoshuh zai daiz sheg'ii d zhoujzi h bie d kuliq zh wai, pigri zhaohy xih zai ci jian shushud dd laiwagz z d shaonanr shaonio, laoyer taitaib, ci shih da dou mib cag zai "xiaoj jinj zhagy zhog, dib zhendj qians zhohz, yinks yagf gaof meib jiuhh", -- zhishao y kaod zai teg z pegt yanhh d holuh pag, peibanr jiaren ho zhidcyour, wu youlio dd zai da tan qiw xianm tian. -- Yiw xiaglex z tamen xigfux d shiguag, zaiw bu yuanx lai feg kuagf xues luan d shui yas, xiaoshoud pinqiogren so yig shoud d hanleg l.
Zhe cih d boc yous, suiwran y gei l w xie laosaof h bie d ku weik, danw w yao yog liagbxin zod danbaor dd sho, taw so jiyud w d xinligx shenchul d huanyuex, s wuqiog d shenyuanz d! Kexixz shikc biy s dunjc tur l. Fouze, w jiag ruhew chaoyueq l yiqie guh shikcren d kuagre dd geyogk l taw ne!
Hao bak, rog w zai zhe'er chegkxin lisx qig dd sho yi shegk: "xiexiek xues d Xil Hus, xiexiek Xil Hus d xues!"
西湖的雪景 钟敬文
从来谈论西湖之胜景的，大抵注目于春夏两季；而各地游客，也多于此时翩然来临。——秋季游人已渐少，入冬后，则更形疏落了。这当中自然有以致其然的道理。春夏之间，气温和暖，湖上风物，应时佳胜，或“杂花生树，群莺乱飞”，或“浴晴鸥鹭争飞，拂袂荷风荐爽”，都是要教人眷眷不易忘情的。于此时节，往来湖上，沉醉于柔媚芳馨的情味中，谁说不应该呢？但是春花固可爱，秋月不是也要使人销魂么？四时的烟景不同，而真赏者各能得其佳趣；不过，这未易以论于一般人罢了。高深父先生曾告诉过我们：“若能高朗其怀，旷达其意，超尘脱俗，别具天眼，揽景会心，便得真趣。”我们虽不成才但对于先贤这种深于体验的话，也忍只当做全无关系的耳边风么？自宋朝以来，平章西湖风景的，有所谓“西湖十景，钱塘十景”之说，虽里面也曾列入“断桥残雪”，“孤山霁雪”两个名目，但实际上，真的会去赏玩这种清寒不很近情的景致的，怕没有多少人吧。《四时幽赏录》的著者，在“冬时幽赏”门中，言及雪景的，几占十分的七八，其名目有“雪霁策蹇寻梅”，“三茅山顶望江天雪霁”，“西溪道中玩雪”，“扫雪烹茶玩画”，“雪夜煨芋谈禅”，“山窗听雪敲竹”，“雪后镇海楼观晚炊”等。其中大半所述景色，读了不禁移人神思，固不徒文字粹美而已。但他是一位潇洒出尘的名士，所以能够有此独具心眼的幽赏；我们一方面自然佩服他心情的深湛，另一方面却也可以证出能领略此中奥味者之所以稀少的必然了。
西湖的雪景，我共玩了两次。第一次是在此间初下雪的第三天。我于午前十点钟时才出去。一个人从校门乘黄包车到湖滨下车，徒步走出钱塘门。经白堤，旋转入孤山路。沿孤山西行，到西泠桥，折由大道回来。此次雪本不大，加以出去时间太迟，山野上盖着的，大都已消去，所以没有什么动人之处。现在我要细述的，是第二次的重游。那天是一月廿四日。因为在床上感到意外冰冷之故，清晨初醒来时，我便预知昨宵是下了雪。果然，当我打开房门一看时，对面房屋的瓦上全变成白色了，天井中一株木樨花的枝叶上，也黏缀着一小堆一小堆的白粉。详细地看去，觉得比日前两三回所下的都来得大些。因为以前的，虽然也铺盖了屋顶，但有些瓦沟上却仍然是黑色，这天却一色地白着，绝少铺不匀的地方了。并且都厚厚的，约摸有一两寸高的程度。日前的雪，虽然铺满了屋顶，但于木樨花树，却好像全无关系似的，此回它可不免受影响了，这也是雪落得比较大些的明证。
老李照例是起得很迟的，有时我上了两课下来，才看见他在房里穿衣服，预备上办公厅去。这天，我起来跑到他的房里，把他叫醒之后，他犹带着几分睡意地问我：“老钟，今天外面有没有下雪？”我回答他说：“不但有呢，并且颇大。”他起初怀疑着，直待我把窗内的白布幔拉开，让他望见了屋顶才肯相信。“老钟，我们今天到灵隐去耍子吧？”他很高兴地说。我“哼”的应了一声，便回到自己的房里来了。
我们在校门上车时，大约已九点钟左右了。时小雨霏霏，冷风拂人如泼水。从车帘两旁缺处望出去，路旁高起之地，和所有一切高低不平的屋顶，都撒着白面粉似的，又如铺陈着新打好的棉被一般。街上的已大半变成雪泥，车子在上面碾过，不绝地发出唧唧的声音，与车轮转动时摩擦着中间横木的音响相杂。
我们到了湖滨，便换登汽车。往时这条路线的搭客是颇热闹的，现在却很零落了。同车的不到十个人，为遨游而来的客人还怕没有一半。当车驶过白堤时，我们向车外眺望内外湖风景，但见一片迷蒙的水汽弥漫着，对面的山峰，只有一个几乎辨不清楚的薄影。葛岭、宝石山这边，因为距离比较密迩的缘故，山上的积雪和树木，大略可以看得出来；但地位较高的保俶塔，便陷于朦胧中了。到西泠桥近前时，再回望湖中，见湖心亭四围枯秃的树干，好似怯寒般地在那里呆立着，我不禁联想起《陶庵梦忆》中一段情词俱幽绝的文字来：
崇祯五年十二月，余住西湖。大雪三日，湖中人鸟声俱绝。是日更定，余拿一小舟，拥毳衣炉火，独往湖心亭看雪。雾凇沆砀，天与云与山与水，上下一白。湖上影子，惟长堤一痕、湖心亭一点与余舟一芥，舟中人两三粒而已。到亭上，有两人铺毡对坐，一童子烧酒炉正沸。见余，大喜曰：“湖中焉得更有此人！”拉余同饮。余强饮三大白而别。问其姓氏，是金陵人，客此。及下船，舟子喃喃曰：“莫说相公痴，更有痴似相公者！”（《湖心亭看雪》）不知这时的湖心亭上，尚有此种痴人否？心里不觉漠然了一会。车过西泠桥以后，车暂驶行于两边山岭林木连接着的野道中。所有的山上，都堆积着很厚的雪块，虽然不能如瓦屋上那样铺填得均匀普遍，那一片片清白的光彩，却尽够使我感到宇宙的清寒、壮旷与纯洁！常绿树的枝叶后所堆着的雪，和枯树上的，很有差别。前者因为有叶子衬托着之故，雪上特别堆积得大块点，远远望去，如开满了白的山茶花，或吾乡的水锦花。后者，则只有一小块的雪片能够在上面黏着不坠落下去，与刚著花的梅李树绝地相似。实在，我初次几乎把那些近在路旁的几株错认了。野上半黄或全赤了的枯草，多压在两三寸厚的雪褥下面；有些枝条软弱的树，也被压抑得攲攲倒倒的。路上行人很稀少。道旁野人的屋里，时见有衣着破旧而笨重的老人、童子，在围着火炉取暖。看了那古朴清贫的情况，仿佛令我暂时忘怀了我们所处时代的纷扰、繁缛了。
到了灵隐山门，我们便下车了。一走进去，空气怪清冷的，不但没有游客，往时那些卖念珠、古钱、天竺筷子的小贩子也不见了。石道上铺积着颇深的雪泥。飞来峰疏疏落落地着了许多雪块，清泠亭及其他建筑物的顶面，一例的密盖着纯白色的毡毯。一个拍照的，当我们刚进门时，便紧紧地跟在后面。因为老李的高兴，我们便在清泠亭旁照了两个影。
好奇心打动着我，使我感觉到眼前所看到的之不满足，而更向处境较幽深的韬光庵去。我幽悄地尽移着步向前走，老李也不声张地跟着我。从灵隐寺到韬光庵的这条山径，实际上虽不见怎样的长，但颇深曲而饶于风致。这里的雪，要比城中和湖上各处的都大些。在径上的雪块，大约有半尺来厚，两旁树上的积雪，也比来路上所见的浓重。曾来游玩过的人，该不会忘记的吧，这条路上两旁是怎样的繁殖着高高的绿竹。这时，竹枝和竹叶上，大都着满了雪，向下低低地垂着。《四时幽赏录》“山窗听雪敲竹”条云：“飞雪有声，惟在竹间最雅。山窗寒夜，时听雪洒竹林；淅沥萧萧，连翩瑟瑟，声韵悠然，逸我清听。忽尔回风交急，折竹一声，使我寒毡增冷。”这种风味，可惜我没有福分消受。
在冬天，本来是游客冷落的时候，何况这样雨雪清冷的日子呢？所以当我们跑到庵里时，别的游人一个都没有，——这在我们上山时看山径上的足迹便可以晓得的——而僧人的眼色里，并且也有一种觉得怪异的表示。我们一直跑上最后的观海亭。那里石阶上下都厚厚地堆满了水沫似的雪，亭前的树上，雪着得很重，在雪的下层并结了冰块。旁边有几株山茶花，正在艳开着粉红色的花朵。那花朵有些坠下来的，半掩在雪花里，红白相映，色彩灿然，使我们感到华而不俗，清而不寒。因而联忆起那“天寒翠袖薄，日暮倚修竹”的美人儿来。
登上这亭，在平日是可以近瞰西湖，远望浙江，甚而至于缥缈的沧海的，可是此刻却不能了。离庵不远的山岭、僧房、竹树，尚勉强可见，稍远则封锁在茫漠的烟雾里了。
空斋蹋壁卧，忽梦溪山好。朝骑秃尾驴，来寻雪中道。石壁引孤松，长空没飞鸟。不见远山横，寒烟起林杪。（《雪中登黄山》）我倚着亭柱，默默地在咀嚼着王渔洋这首五言诗的清妙；尤其是结尾两句，更道破了雪景的三昧。但说不定许多没有经验的人，要妄笑它是无味的诗句呢。文艺的真赏鉴，本来是件不容易的事，这又何必咄咄见怪？自己解说了一番，心里也就释然了。
本来拟在僧房里吃素面的，不知为什么，竟跑到山门前的酒楼喝酒了。老李不能多喝，我一个人也就无多兴致干杯了。在那里，我把在山径上带下来的一团冷雪，放进在酒杯里混着喝。堂倌看了说：“这是顶上的冰激凌呢。”
半因为等不到汽车，半因为想多玩一点雪景，我们决意步行到岳坟才叫划子去游湖。一路上，虽然走的是来时汽车经过的故道，但在徒步观赏中，不免觉得更有情味了。我们的革履，踏着一两寸厚的雪泥前进，频频地发出一种清脆的声音。有时路旁树枝上的雪块，忽然掉了下来，着在我们的外套上，正前人所谓“玉坠冰柯，沾衣生湿”的情景。我迟回着我的步履，扩展着我的视域，油然有一脉浓重而灵秘的诗情，浮上我的心头来，使我幽然意远，漠然神凝。郑綮对人说自己的诗思，在灞桥雪中、驴背上，真是怪懂得趣儿的说法！
当我们在岳王庙前登舟时，雪又纷纷地下起来了。湖里除了我们的一只小划子以外，再看不到别的舟楫。平湖漠漠，一切都沉默无哗。舟穿过西泠桥，缓泛里西湖中，孤山和对面诸山及上下的楼亭、房屋，都白了头，在风雪中兀立着。山径上，望不见一个人影；湖面连水鸟都没有踪迹，只有乱飘的雪花坠下时，微起些涟漪而已。柳宗元诗云：“千山鸟飞绝，万径人踪灭。孤舟蓑笠翁，独钓寒江雪。”我想这时如果有一个渔翁在垂钓，它很可以借来说明眼前的景物呢。
舟将驶近断桥的时候，雪花飞飘得更其凌乱。我们向北一面的外套，差不多大半白而且湿了。风也似乎吹得格外紧劲些，我的脸不能向它吹来的方面望去。因为革履渗进了雪水的缘故，双足尤冰冻得难忍。这时，从来不多开过口的舟子，忽然问我们说：“你们觉得此处比较寒冷么？”我们问他什么缘故。据说是宝石山一带的雪山风吹过来的原因。我于是默默地兴想到知识的范围和它的获得等重大的问题上去了。
我们到湖滨登岸时，已是下午三点余钟了。公园中各处都堆满了雪，有些已变成泥泞。除了极少数在待生意的舟子和别的苦力之外，平日朝夕在此间舒舒地来往着的少男少女、老爷太太，此时大都密藏在“销金帐中，低斟浅酌，饮羊羔美酒”，——至少也靠在腾着碰焰的火炉旁，陪伴家人或挚友，无忧虑地在大谈其闲天。——以享乐着他们幸福的时光，再不愿来风狂雪乱的水涯，消受贫穷人所应受的寒冷了。
这次的薄游，虽然也给了我些牢骚和别的苦味，但我要用良心做担保地说，它所给予我的心灵深处的欢悦，是无穷的深远的！可惜诗笔是钝秃了。否则，我将如何超越了一切古诗人的狂热地歌咏了它呢！
好吧，容我在这儿诚心沥情地说一声：“谢谢雪的西湖，谢谢西湖的雪！”
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