从北京的八达岭上G6高速,一直走到张家口,再沿着草原天路一直前行,就到了元上都遗址。

这是前几年去元上都遗址公园的轨迹,现在好像有了更便捷的路线。从地图上看,走承德更近一些。

元上都遗址在正蓝旗。十几年前去的时候,那里几乎就是一片大草原。走近了,才能看见一些断壁残垣。我曾经遇到过一位老教授,带着几个学生在研究那段历史。

我们去那里的目的却是为了烤的流油的全羊,朋友们的觥筹交错,载歌载舞的篝火晚会,还有晚上会冻醒的蒙古包。

只有到了晚上,带着微醺的酒意,我走出蒙古包。星空墨蓝,这里的星光穿透力特强,它们从几千年几万年甚至几亿年的太空赶来,和白天的阳光一样,从容的穿过草原大气层,洒落一地清晖。800年前的忽必烈汗,是否也和我一样,站在璀璨的星光下,谋划着征服世界的大计。

在他建造的这座富丽堂皇的殿堂里,发生过多少浪漫而凄美的故事?呜咽婉转的马头琴,真的有美丽的阿比西尼亚Abyssinian少女吗?她们是怎样来到了这里?忽必烈汗难道很喜欢黑人?
柯勒律治诗中的那条圣河,是否就是潺潺流过的那条溪流?绚烂的花园呢?还有繁茂的森林和深不可测的岩洞,早已化作了泥土。巍峨的青山呢?这里所谓的山也只是些土丘罢了,距离大青山还有八九百里地呢,忽必烈怎么可能看见?
这位马背上的君王,醒掌天下权,醉卧美人膝。他杀伐果断,铁蹄之下,不知有多少亡魂?
从元上都遗址走过,回味着柯勒律治这首著名的诗歌。据说柯勒律治是一位瘾君子,当时最厉害的毒品就是鸦片了。柯勒律治先生美美的吸上几口,灵感来了,就写下了下面的诗句。突然,有朋友来访。柯勒律治只好放下鹅毛笔,万般无奈的和朋友叙旧。待朋友离开,柯勒律治再次坐回书桌,继续未完的这首诗歌,却怎么也找不回曾经的灵感。即便是再次吸上鸦片,也不能再写出一个单词。
于是,这首著名的《忽必烈汗》就只有半首,这半首诗也成了世界文学史上的瑰宝。
附在下面,有空了翻开看看。
译文有很多版本,可以搜索来看。
Kubla Khan
In Xanadu did Kubla Khan
A stately pleasure-dome decree:
Where Alph, the sacrecl river, ran
Through caverns measureless to man
Down to a sunless sea.
So twice five miles of fertile ground
With walls and towers were girdled round:
And there were gardens bright with sinuous rills,
Where blossomed many an incense-bearing tree;
And here were forests ancient as the hills,
Enfolding sunny spots of greenery.
But oh! that deep romantic chasm which slanted
Down the green hill athwart a cedarn cover!
A savage place! as holy and enchanted
As e'er beneath a waning moon was haunted
By woman wailing for her demon-lover!
And from this chasm, with ceaseless turmoil seething,
As if this earth in fast thick pants were breathing,
A mighty fountain momently was forced:
Amid whose swift half- intermitted burst
Huge fragments vaulted like rebounding hail,
Or chaffy grain beneath the thresher's flail:
And'mid these dancing rocks at once and ever
It flung up momently the sacred river.
Five miles meandering with a mazy motion
Through wood and dale the sacred river ran,
Then reached the caverns measureless to man,
And sank in tumult to a lifeless ocean:
And 'mid this tumult Kubla heard from far
Ancestral voices prophesying war!
The shadow of the dome of pleasure
Floated midway on the waves;
Where was heard the mingled measure
From the fountain and the caves.
It was a miracle of rare device,
A sunny pleasure-dome with caves of ice!
A damsel with a dulcimer
In a vision once I saw:
It was an Abyssinian maid,
And on her dulcimer she played,
Singing of Mount Abora.
Could I revive within me
Her symphony and song,
To such a deep delight 'twould wiff me,
That with music loud and long,
I would build that dome in air,
That sunny dome! those caves of ice!
And all who heard should see them there,
And all should cry, "Beware! Beware!
His flashing eyes, his floating hair!
Weave a circle round himthrice,
And close your eyes with holy dread,
For he on honey-dew hath fed,
And drunk the milk of Paradise."
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