钟意旅行的我,永远不会停止奔波自己的双脚,这不,从青岛回来还没两天,又同爸妈从老家出发,自驾至广西,开始为期约5天的广西自由行,去观赏广西的山水与海。
Day1
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/59a37fef42ea86b8.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/0df9c842006c86aa.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a049726f79856123.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/4973aec42884abfc.jpg)
可能因为此时华南地处雨季吧,这里的天灰蒙蒙的。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/89a24c71cc3279c7.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/5c5afc9e1a536917.jpg)
第一天清早开始开了六个小时的车,便驶至了桂林龙胜龙脊梯田。根据蚂蜂窝的攻略,龙脊梯田是指在龙脊山上开发出的梯田,故得此名。景观分为金坑瑶族梯田和平安壮族梯田,由于攻略说平安梯田开发较早,所以我们觉得应该设施相对完善,便选择住在了平安壮寨。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/03ed7d1b1de76887.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/72f9e0a3c9614761.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/9ccb037cca272a77.jpg)
由于对该地不熟,我们的车在盘山公路上走错了,竟然走到了一处水库,海拔还蛮高呢(估计比山脚高了一千米)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/4147da1d5aa74f5e.jpg)
四周都是葱郁的山林,中间一汪碧水,绿波荡漾,好似一番“桃花潭水深千尺”的意境。虽走错路却不枉此行,实是一种意外的收获。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2533ad62f6b668d2.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ed3e65a2a4061858.jpg)
更惊喜的是,水库不远处就是九龙五虎观景台。站在观景台上,迎接我们的可是……
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a9285e34ade68d11.jpg)
站在观景台上俯瞰,绵延不绝的梯田和散落其间的村落尽收眼底。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ef58b03a0dbbf40f.jpg)
据说2300多年以前,第一批到达龙脊的壮民和瑶民面对横亘在面前的深山,咬紧牙关,依靠最原始的刀耕火种,开垦出第一块梯田。此后,他们的子孙便接过父兄手里的锄头,日复一日,年复一年,便开辟出如此壮观之景。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/03bd8cceffeb4653.jpg)
可以说从流水湍急的河谷,到白云缭绕的山巅,从万木葱茏的林边到石壁陡崖前,凡有泥土的地方,都开辟了梯田。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d67807e2fd5d65a2.jpg)
尽管高差很大,但这里的梯田没有一块是开叉的。这里随处可见从山上而来的纵横交错的溪流,充足的地形雨以及由合适的潜水位带来的丰沛的地下水,将滋润出饱满的谷粒。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c8264fb2a66adbdc.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/b2fd182286cafa6b.jpg)
梯田看起来整齐有序,线条丰富多彩,线条形状以曲线为主,曲线赋于人们一种动态美,尤其是那些长长的曲线和波浪线,使人联想到这些梯田好像是天上飘落的彩带。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/38b505fe6f1b45b4.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c309b2194fc3df09.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/78ca91cc78316acb.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8a6e5fbc0330610d.jpg)
夏天时,正是禾苗高长的时候,绿色音符般的梯田映入眼帘时便十分悦目。可以想象,秋收时节定是金黄色的稻浪漫山间肆意翻滚的时候,美不胜收的场景一定是摄影发烧友们的挚爱。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/333d14dc6328bf3f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/1204dffb02ab4d8b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e13515adb6759a27.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a076858b9c7d9b32.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c16c49969f341f5f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d9eaad79e6a47f96.jpg)
村落错落有致地分布于梯田间
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/471509dddf469d43.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2977e74ac45da074.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/85d9d2e13575dde6.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/46f894f8336ee47c.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/bd414af13a46d913.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/30ac19e9f341d193.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2eaae12d21aa36c9.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c93e16403a141422.jpg)
村中都是古朴的少数民族风情的吊脚楼,踏着充满岁月的石板路,蜿蜒在屋间的藤蔓,闻着的鸡牛粪味和柴火燃烧的香味,缓缓行路的穿着壮服背着干柴而过的老太太,叮当的马蹄铃声,田园牧歌般的风情让这儿的氛围宁静而致远。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e08acf653d71a1f6.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/45cd8211d1bc42db.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a541d6842757dc7c.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/18c0d03beeb1e017.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/4214ad05d97faee2.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/cb8a3f3af22ebb39.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/38ba8b3b9ab98363.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/94af46cd53a28d1b.jpg)
当我们找对旅馆位置时,却发现车开不过去。于是我们便提着行李,走了这么一段山间小道。虽然地处岭南地区,但由于这里的海拔大概比山下要高出几百到1000米,因此,在去往龙脊的路上,随着海拔的升高,象征南亚热带的桉树,长枝竹等不见了,马尾松,毛竹等湖南常见的植物又多了起来。走在这条羊肠小道上,看着周边的樟树林和夹杂其中的马尾松,树脚下旺盛的蕨,满目的水稻田及镶嵌期间的红薯,玉米,豆角等蔬菜的地,田间低矮的电线杆,和湖南蝉几乎一样的蝉鸣节奏(知道听上去什么样,不过不知道怎么描述,只可意会不可言传),觉得景色十分像位于中亚热带的湖南老家的乡村(故所以这里的蔬菜对于在农村长大的父母来说十分熟悉)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/37a8489f09e9bae1.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a33cd2e0ba9beede.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/14cea254b117e589.jpg)
我们在寨子里住的青旅
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/595713e914e71b44.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d639aa34e1ccc328.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ae9ac6b117b63914.jpg)
山路交通不便,物资运输都要靠传统的畜力,图为上山的马儿。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/6e052d557ac106bc.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/38ab07a23a1c18dd.jpg)
从山上流下来的山泉水,纯净无污染还带些许甜味。途中我们还看见有壮家农妇用这种水洗衣服呢
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e05c30544a21eb1b.jpg)
尽管这里经历了多年的旅游开发,但这里的一切却充满了怀旧风格。走过几户人家,只觉得并不富裕,里边的装横以及他们的生活仿佛还在30多年前的水平,田里的秧苗看起来都是一株株手工插的,洗衣服还是用从前的搓衣板,运输物资用马驴等,这让已经到了2018年过惯了现代化生活的我着实一惊。然而,当地人的心也比较纯粹,似乎很容易满足,没有对财富的十分渴望(至于旅馆什么的都是外地人经营的),也许是因为现代化的生活方式和价值观念对当地人影响较少,故所以他们还保持着浮躁的现代人所不具备的踏实心境吧。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/76f60da4ef475817.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/7a4aaa93e8393539.jpg)
上图即是罗汉果茶,五一假时和好友霄在广州饮早茶时喝过,一直忘不了那淡淡的甜味。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/94c912ed97ea7dde.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/95d6631255b0cb20.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a61c06fcc4072164.jpg)
壮家米酒,度数感觉还蛮高呢,比前几天喝的青岛啤酒味道烈多了。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/859f4d73932abcb4.jpg)
Day2
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a22403649f2bbe03.jpg)
梯田的清晨,鸡鸣报晓,空气中弥漫着柴火的味道,呼吸一口甚觉十分清爽,云雾缭绕中,田间充斥着朦胧绿。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8cd6b55d9c5eb063.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/13b43f792a23b9c6.jpg)
金坑梯田,没有上山,因为觉得景观应该差不多。不过换个角度从山下看梯田,也别有一番韵味呢。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/041989e9f462b9bf.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/dba5b80c3d68f41c.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d2f28314e7fdd5b8.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/4b80b4c380d35a7a.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/926142bf095f300c.jpg)
我们还在山脚的瑶寨里吃上了鲜美的桂林米粉。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/37dd561fa45d88ac.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/25d61e812969be7f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ae66c1cc82260bec.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ed926a0c56549ca5.jpg)
过了桂林后,随着海拔和纬度的降低,马尾松等变少了,华南地区常见的桉树多了起来,瘦瘦高高的,整齐而又密集地排列在山上,形成桉树林的海洋,这和以前见过的广东山区景色越来越像了,华南的气息越来越浓。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/45f62339ec669c0f.jpg)
进入柳州市境内以后,便开始可以看见路旁生有板根和气生根的榕树了,山上的主体植被也从桂林的马尾松和桉树交替分布的状况转为了几乎呈单一状分布的桉树林,可以说到了柳州,就越来越向南亚热带过渡了。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/0236e139d9fa8a82.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/fe696413c4758ade.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2e59f11b7c6faa52.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c7e67d37ee8078cd.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e48500fd4fd65dc4.jpg)
广西境内是比较典型的喀斯特地貌,石灰岩分布十分广阔,其质地又不紧密且易为水所溶蚀,而广西气候总体上就是比较高温多雨的,因此长期的侵蚀使得这里有许多拔地而起的孤峰。桂林的喀斯特地貌虽然最为出名,但实际上,整个广西差不多都处于这种地貌中,甚至周边的云南,贵州,湖南乃至越南(下龙湾就被称为海上桂林)都有少量的分布,不过主体部分还是在广西境内。《徐霞客游记》有言:“西南始于此(此指云南罗平),东北尽于道州(今湖南道县),磅礴数千里”,这基本与现代调查结果相符。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/202d30ad1923f9bb.jpg)
在往南宁方向的高速路上,有很多这样大片大片的甘蔗林,望着路两旁一望无际的甘蔗组成的绿色海洋,驾驶员必定是赏心悦目的不容易疲劳的。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a15f88b27971d8a2.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/56d73024dc515c76.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/052e0411f1c2b634.jpg)
近处交错分布的甘蔗田和桉树丛,远处绵延不断的喀斯特峰丛,成为这一带的特色风景
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/85da313dbd8219f8.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e5bc1fe16d7026c7.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/9e9312a1be07f4a8.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/489890b956a6fbad.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/3389f17f856e0964.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8370622f7636df33.jpg)
广西可谓是中国的产糖大省,这是因为广西拥有中国最大的甘蔗种植面积,这得意于广西较为充足的热量和水分,这里的成熟甘蔗又高又粗又甜,条件相似的广东海南等恐怕都不及。湖南也有少量种植,但是产量,口感都不如华南地区所产的。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8dbe78dde5b5d41f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/808081d893054940.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/076ae02a2da39282.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/73b0feae915b169b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d046e05e47ae2769.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/0333d45a5e90ddcf.jpg)
过了南宁,离越南也就不远了
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/eedc9b556fc9930f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8e5cae98ed42ecfb.jpg)
下图是车行驶在南宁郊区的一条连接线的景象,南宁被称为绿城,可以想象,这样的绿色在冬日照样能够呈现。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/5257a4ac8323656f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8e4b79f96211f95f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/36bae9a513df4fd7.jpg)
进入南宁至崇左的高速,景色越发秀丽了
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/cf8c63747af0d5ce.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c87b1eac5139c7ce.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/f40f7641a8e25f20.jpg)
曾经在网上看到过摄影师所摄的秋日广西喀斯特峰林中,蜿蜒而过的碧水两岸,大片的油菜花和金黄的稻谷共同为大地铺上了黄金般的地毯,配上绿油油的山峰,真是美不胜收。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8b41dfc09c37305c.jpg)
此时虽不是稻浪飘香的季节,但路旁绿汪汪的水田和随风微微起伏的甘蔗丛,再加上披着嫩绿植被的峰林,不用滤镜,肉眼所见便能使人宛如画中游。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/cd32a95fdbf2803c.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/cc59b40a0ca00f4b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/0703e94711617a97.jpg)
路旁的香蕉林
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/79378ee49318a1a1.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/544a8af87bd856fb.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/fe0bf6c2caa8aac2.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/b1a093bf0f9de023.jpg)
一路上都是这样清秀的山
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8903cf0df9eb0234.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/89dc746b9179b80a.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/cdb711a36edd7dc3.jpg)
这是我用的最满意的滤镜之一,色调偏暖且明亮,尤其是天空清新得就如日本动漫大师新海诚笔下的画作。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/79676017ee237930.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/cff565931ef70c7c.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/5c638d2a89a1e1a8.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/50b2dfe4b49a0809.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/63d34e97911cf01f.jpg)
还没到达宾馆,就已经到了一处边防检查站,出示一下身份证就可以进去了(特殊原因不能拍照)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/055e40e0cfad3852.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8e33fdfdbadbedbb.jpg)
傍晚十分到达这家“稻香客栈”,虽然地处乡村,但如美团评价所言,设施齐全,饭菜价格实惠,味道不错,老板也很热情实在,给我们介绍当地景点和土特产,还允许我们去摘他们家的木瓜和龙眼(这一点给五星好评)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/bf790d57b9759304.jpg)
上图即是通过房间的落地窗拍摄的傍晚外景,一开窗就是这样的田园山水景,这样的旅馆上哪找。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a732f9d89a9a1a53.jpg)
day3
本来希望早起开窗帘能看到一片美景,结果是一片雾,hhh~
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/99ed828c7a067c21.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/61e4db26056354a8.jpg)
大清早的便在村里闲逛,这里是典型的岭南乡村。走在乡间小路上,呼吸着清爽的空气,四周都是木瓜,香蕉,榕树,长枝竹等岭南特色的奇树异果,以及绿葱葱的水田;远处绵延着桂林山一般的峰林,空气中弥漫着乡村特有的鸡畜味,鸟鸣的清脆,使人无时不刻沐浴在“空山新雨后”的舒适感中。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/47cc11771e22cf88.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/de52ff8c712645fa.jpg)
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下图远处的山,是在去往德天瀑布的图中所摄,如透视的素描家所描绘的那样前后有致的排布,掩映在朦胧的白雾中,却好似一幅中国传统泼墨山水画(没有那辆驶过的车就更好了)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/81a6d5d2ea4606ae.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/b849e738c4a6fd34.jpg)
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德天大瀑布,据说是世界第四大跨国瀑布(对岸就是越南),也是花千骨的取景地之一。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/99be7790d4ef0348.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/6bdc8a031dce1a9f.jpg)
拍摄的对岸的越南建筑(看起来也不差嘛)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/4d83f4114bcdc837.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/7edde9011952470c.jpg)
此时的德天瀑布正处于丰水期,归春河奔流的水从几十米高的石灰岩崖壁上倾泻而下,用咆哮声激起了水雾白茫茫一片,几公里外便已能闻其怒吼,近瞧,只见几条白金水带在太阳光照下熠熠生辉。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/afc73b1c98e1bd33.jpg)
两道瀑布分属中国和越南,据说中间的树丛中掩藏着清朝时期树立的53号界碑,可惜不能靠近。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/199d1a752f3c90fc.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8aac19adcdfb3880.jpg)
靠近德天瀑布,可以看见一些树林和灌木丛被淹于水中,哗啦啦的流水声响彻树丛里,可以知道由于丰水期,这里已经被淹了。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/698536a450246ac6.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2d5aead745cac8fc.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/f69eaf5f3bcce5c0.jpg)
由于靠近边境,这里的商店多贩卖有越南商品,连包装纸都是原装的。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8491cdc0a1d2080c.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/04e66cf55efdcf38.jpg)
离开德天瀑布景区后便找到一家越南菜馆,味道不错,虽然服务态度和价格差强人意。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c4ecaa616c378017.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ba7f486c2d434c53.jpg)
饭后,便来到了因作为电视剧花千骨的取景地而火的明仕田园。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/cf8d81574b163e4a.jpg)
同样的清山,同样的绿水,耸立的喀斯特峰林,簇状生长的翠绿的长枝竹,皆倒映于水之中,与几百公里以外的桂林山水形似神也似。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c1a0d30cd5f551fe.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/1527973381da61e3.jpg)
因为正处雨季,水位较高,故水质稍显浑浊
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/36c2c180245a536a.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a2491ec89e8677de.jpg)
船上的导游阿妹,在结束热情洋溢的解说之后,还特意为我们唱了一首壮族山歌,配合少数民族高昂的声腔,似乎散发着当地特有的山与水的灵气,简直就是在听《印象刘三姐》
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2900e0dec7474ea4.jpg)
阿妹对船夫说的壮语听上去有些耳熟,一问,阿妹说他们讲的语言和越南那边过来的人的话有百分之八十的相似,和泰语也有一大半的相似(据说壮语和泰语是同源语言,怪不得我听阿妹说话和半年前在泰国听的当地人说的话有些像),和粤语也有一定联系呢(听说粤语与壮语也不能直接沟通,但是听感会有些类似)对了,这边说青蛙是“麻拐”,和湖南老家的说法一样。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d7cf732ba3550712.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/f39ea5b1c38282ca.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/db4cfb1ebdaae971.jpg)
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一处典型的壮族民居,看得出来是经典的土木构造。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c4e749c4db938df2.jpg)
Day4
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/38c82fdb7b6df14f.jpg)
清晨便驱车往凭祥友谊关,上图便是我拍的最为满意的一张照片。朝阳普照大地,白云婆娑起舞的身姿飘然翻滚于山间,和煦的阳光透过竹林的间隙,向路旁的甘蔗田贡献无私的能量。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/776f7ce34afd4ee3.jpg)
一路上都是这样如仙境般的大山
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/054bfe801a13c5fe.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a5e781d5e8824f2a.jpg)
路旁发现有几百米长的香蕉田,不过果实还是绿的没有成熟。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/7e99529aa5d0d8a7.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/75de8ec6b2cbff84.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/22d9cf715a4f8ce1.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/61058121555fd303.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/7cdf8c35706c73ca.jpg)
友谊关古称镇南关,顾名思义,即有镇守祖国南大门,拱卫边疆之效。这座建于明代的关隘据说曾经被占领越南的法国殖民者所毁,当时的殖民者还狂妄地说道“广西的门户已不复存在”,而愤慨的中国人民则回应道“我们将用法国人的头颅重建我们的关隘”,何等的英武霸气!
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/84cb21bf77352edf.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/bbfed906bcf2a83d.jpg)
建于友谊关的明代城墙
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ad9643c551010793.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/0cc97943ac9b0989.jpg)
国门对面就是越南
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2ce0c115ba6a7696.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/89050fd340573a7c.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/7996f09899b88f47.jpg)
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![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e82a6b2dd052884f.jpg)
经过四个小时的跋涉,便来到了著名的海滨旅游城市——北海。在进入主城区的道路上,绿化带密布着南国风情的各种棕榈植物。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c30229e780e7b0c2.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/398df8fa2b978608.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/5b347cdf84ec9dde.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/118f031fff2ec283.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d5de21829d358860.jpg)
上图其实是道路中央的绿化带,特别宽,中有可供散步的小道。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8b773b7d9de18748.jpg)
第一次使用小猪短租软件,终于住进了传说中的民宿,顾名思义就是可以把多余空出去的房间租出去,以赚取租金(其实我们家在长沙的房子也可以这样搞诶)。与宾馆不同,民宿的条件完全和日常家居一样,空间明显比旅馆宽敞,还可以做饭。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/de36e5b7a1ec3d04.jpg)
房东小哥很热情,早早地下楼接我们,帮我们提行李,还像我们推荐北海旅行攻略。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2059e6104bf1622d.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/bff687c6e38d1a6b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/5e0084e1ccfbcf98.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e5e37911120e2771.jpg)
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又闻到久违的海腥味,证明已经快到海边了
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ceb270340590b9f7.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/4f12a6bcff84cbff.jpg)
下图是银滩边上货真价实的椰树,假日海边只要有椰树便是一道风景的剪影。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/425a4a63bc2b2fff.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ac41eef5c0af980c.jpg)
沙质洁白,细腻如流,踩上去异常柔软,如同棉絮,又似白银满地,故名曰银滩。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/f142ba3f0cb14d20.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2eb6dc05e3fb4b8c.jpg)
这里的摩托艇挺贵的,150元钱一次,行驶距离也不长,想想半年前在泰国玩的摩托艇多实惠。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/1fc78ee3d209f8a0.jpg)
和深圳大梅沙一样,即使到了傍晚海滩上人多得也像煮饺子一样。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/f6d57c6499c41ade.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/9fbf5fafe92642c6.jpg)
侨港风情街,可以说是海鲜一条街。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/0298e96af47429f2.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/3e28df96434be1cf.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/062d1ececc95d2e6.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/dbe9eead8fdb91e4.jpg)
这里的海鲜品种大体类似于广东海鲜,和一个星期前食的青岛海鲜也有诸多重合,不过,这里的特色有生蚝,沙虫等。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/3329dd58d38b0545.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/0c1ede0c3d2c5b7f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/7f8bcc5bb06e10cf.jpg)
与追求生鲜的青岛海鲜不同,北海海鲜放了很多佐料,这也是南北差异吧(青岛铁哥老石要是来了可能不习惯吧,嘿嘿嘿)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2e75c88c983b0cfe.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/83a8943e613dda1f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/b889e80a69ed208c.jpg)
清晨的小区(现在这里的别墅都还只有七八千,北海房价总体上也就这个价,听上去挺诱人呀)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a17ea31d5a070f5d.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c3cebf1447e4aea5.jpg)
金海湾红树林公园,与免费的深圳红树林公园不同,这里加上电瓶车的费用人均105元,还不包括其他有偿项目。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/b626a6752673ccd7.jpg)
不过,这里的红树林规模可比深圳的大多了。红树科植物也是一种环境指示植物,可能是因为北海不如深圳发达,所以污染排放较少的原因吧。广辽的红树林似乎一直延展至海天交接处,形成了蔚为可观的红树林海洋。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/79ba749c84891bc5.jpg)
红树林是一处非常重要的生态系统,通常生长在位于潮间带的滩涂上,在涵养水源,净化水质,提供生物栖息地等方面具有重要作用。不过这类植物不甚耐寒,主要是在热带和南亚热带沿海才有分布,据说福建有一个地方拥有世界纬度最高的红树林区,已经达到北纬27了(都接近我湖南老家的纬度啦)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/9d60a7ac8bad708c.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/abed93e0f1c3e862.jpg)
去年习近平主席的来访也让这个景点爆火,这就是明星效应。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/6fa631cd02926dc8.jpg)
滩涂上几乎密布着招潮蟹,身躯虽小,却有着一个不成比例的大钳子(还有一个小得多的钳子),据说是有应对天敌威胁之用。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/02bf2a456976d11d.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/601ed0e1d98c443b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/eb3bb4c7e66994cb.jpg)
这里也有为数众多的弹涂鱼,虽然是一种鱼,却可以离开水域到陆地一段时间,可以在滩涂上靠前鳍爬行,甚至还可以爬树,据说滩涂鱼是生物进化史上从鱼类向两栖动物的过渡物种的后裔呢。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/dc61ea940b9ad92a.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/f728c8111e79b34f.jpg)
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![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/def08812c136d3eb.jpg)
赶海,是疍家人的一种生存方式,即在海上捕捞各种海鱼,虾,贝壳等,意义相当于农民耕田,牧民放牧。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8520b93749585baa.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/5faea0a7009077ab.jpg)
下图是海边的木麻黄树丛,咋一看很像松树,但是仔细观察会发现,树叶没有松树叶硬,主要呈耷拉向下生长,而且对温度和湿度要求比较高,所以国内只有广西广东福建海南等地的沿海才有生长。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/b9c3896c1813efff.jpg)
在北海至今还有疍家人生活,这个独特的群体主要在我国东南沿海生活。虽然也是汉族人,但却以海为生,生于海咸味里,三餐以海鲜入腹,住在渔船相连的海上村落里,与波涛为乐,葬身于碧海蓝天下,这与作为汉族传统主体文化的农耕文明大径相庭,因此在古代封建王朝重农抑商政策的影响下,疍家人不被允许上陆,更不可能与陆地上的人通婚。在这种情况下便形成了疍家人自己独特的民俗。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/50c50b7dcdb329e6.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d4a5e726d52f45ec.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/5f541e14702fea0e.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/753abbaccb6ffaec.jpg)
疍家表演最精华的部分就是唱咸水歌了。艺术来源于生活,所有民歌都是来源于劳动生活中的,咸水歌也不例外。可能是因为古时他们刚迁移至海上时,没有“海”这个词,只知道海水是咸的,故“咸水歌”之名代代相传,不然可能叫“海歌”呢!
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/0b1952d7f58ee17e.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/784f2433ddeaa75e.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c4ead3fdc78774e1.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e8072d5d98d347fe.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/b4d2e5449299fdb2.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/3cbb0a863ae658f3.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e647a2591f6fc193.jpg)
北海园博园,看介绍是展示北海海文化和海城市规划发展,以及广西各地的自然文化展区,由于与我所读专业相关,便临时兴起想去看(后来觉得其实不值得参观,那是后话)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/7e0788e4391a551b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c06963967823662f.jpg)
一楼大厅主要都是壁画,文物都在二楼(个人觉得挺浪费空间的)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/352548ff00c58498.jpg)
各种北海特色的文物,展现了当地独特的海洋文化
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/51d483b1f1423fe7.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e4fba3e4dd9a4e09.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c6125ebe954b12f1.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/fb0cddb448450855.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d1076989d2f5ebec.jpg)
上图是园中的香蕉,绿色的还没熟,摘下来后很难剥皮,味道也很涩。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a4ef87abbd4d46ed.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/568276066c6efd6d.jpg)
没有参观全部的展区,感觉介绍偏少,布景也很简单,又晒,所以看了会就出去了(这个景点感觉不甚好)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/04917f123ff93d24.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/9b30ddd6e41b177e.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/98b9072bca955acd.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/39de3139d152cc5a.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/d8c925d01a81e3ee.jpg)
其实园博园适合市民傍晚散步,不过本地人也要买10元门票呢,外地游客要收60元,学生票也只有本地学生才能买,这是有多排外啊!带着失望,我们赶紧奔向下一个目的地。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/6afe4f5cb32182d5.jpg)
同样是(亚)热带海滨城市,北海虽然绿化还不错,但是与我所去过的三亚,深圳,广州,厦门相比,颜色还是单调了些,少见花卉,印象中厦门到处都是繁花似锦,被称为“花城”的广州就更不用说啦。(貌似青岛的花都比这里多, 掩映在欧式建筑群里别有情趣)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/3a5a95d8f3b7e293.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/1b8ff3f2b9a95013.jpg)
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老街附近疍家人的船居
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/dbef23f301d98da0.jpg)
骑楼是岭南地区的一种特色建筑,一般都是两三层的西洋风格楼,一楼在靠近街道的位置有绵长的风雨长廊,在湿热的华南是行人们遮风挡雨防晒的好去处。由于下南洋,下西洋的华侨很多,他们不少人在国外赚了钱以后,便回家乡购田置业,其中就有建设骑楼,比较有名的骑楼街主要在广州,梧州,北海,海口等。与之前参观过的广州骑楼相比,北海骑楼保存更完整,规模也更大。与此相比,广州骑楼似乎保护得不是那么的好,有的已年久失修,或干脆在城市建设中被毁掉,后来重建的楼虽然也有风雨长廊,但是没有那种西洋历史感。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/3003fbef0f063148.jpg)
虽是历史老街,这里却任然有许多怀旧风格的门面,行路其中,仿佛置身于民国的市井中。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/2171e9af5c6c55e8.jpg)
北海骑楼规模很大,主要是珠海路和中山路两条
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/165c5e613da70233.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ae8784679f8c44e1.jpg)
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![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/be7f46974027e00b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/3bd62dc9a543e50d.jpg)
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![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/ad108c0a24e25486.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/0a6a826c2cadd333.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/82eea3035c06db61.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/5b6ca640a1173a95.jpg)
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![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/72e85f4abfe2d253.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/4cfaa865bd8d914a.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/70c0cd6104233515.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/b8d2f6ed6f8d1d3d.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/61a61ec74903b160.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/123fa139bc05d811.jpg)
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![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/4a6166130437141b.jpg)
在北海的西北海岸看海
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/e821ad9d4ddc6eb4.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/f6db25ccd153f7c7.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/8bc484bdef4aed21.jpg)
去了趟水果批发市场,这里的热带水果可以用烂便宜来形容,比如下图这个菠萝蜜,居然只要两块五一斤,放在非热带非沿海的老家,已经要12块五一斤了。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c682faf52426d74e.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/34b798f2efd0b8b0.jpg)
琳琅满目的海鲜批发市场
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/1dc1ce4bd458db07.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a1180d3aaf60bacf.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/4d915ec57d57c685.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/c2672b3f719f4669.jpg)
这里的海鲜批发价也不便宜,海蟹是30块钱一斤,虾更是达到了50元一斤。可想而知,海鲜店从这里买进海鲜,还要以更贵的售价卖出。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/cce141fcf89da8ad.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/9e767be0d89c8768.jpg)
终于发挥了民宿的作用了,我们把从批发市场带的海鲜都带到了厨房,热心的房东阿姨还特意为我们做了海鲜菜,不过阿姨是温州的,因此做法和味道是比较典型江浙风格。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i4379434/a8b4c9338d01c26e.jpg)
Day6
由于姨夫生日,第六天清晨我们便驱车往家赶了。游历广西这么多天,对广西的自然和人风土人情深有感触。
广西的基本风光,用“山清水秀”来形容最贴切了。遍布全自治区的喀斯特山峰和丰沛的降水及地下水所形成的锦绣江河,使整个广西遍布“桂林山水甲天下”的风情;广西的气候也是十分适宜的,大部属温暖湿润的南亚热带季风气候(不排除涠洲岛等地有岛状的边缘热带气候区分布)冬天较温暖,比较接近广东(虽然比不过广东,因为湘粤交界处是高大的南岭山脉,而冷空气可以经湘桂走廊一直影响到越南北部,不过总体肯定暖于湖南);由于少污染,故这里空气清新,水质好,并且由于以石灰岩地质为主,所以多种矿物质溶入了水源,再加上适宜的气候和丰富的物产,使广西多长寿之乡(比如巴马,不过不顺路所以这次没去);说到丰饶的物产,广西作为一个气候温湿,水资源丰富的典型的华南地区,除了各种河鲜,还有各种岭南特色的水果,很多湖南没有或很少种的水果,如甘蔗,菠萝蜜,芒果,香蕉,荔枝,龙眼,番木瓜等非常之多,有很多少数民族的特色菜肴,到了北海一带还有众多的海鲜……都说旅游一周都会瘦上一圈,去广西可就不一定了;广西也是一个民族文化多样的地区,瑶族,壮族的文化风俗,艺术,建筑还有北海疍家文化民宿等令人应接不暇,当地人大多淳朴善良,做事也很实在;也有典型的岭南文化,其中,梧州传说还是岭南文化和粤语的发源地呢,西江方便了粤人向内地的进朔,因此据说百色等桂西城市还有饮早茶的习俗呢;要自然风光有自然风光,要人文风情有人文风情,故旅游资源十分丰富,靠近广东这个发达省份也是广西的一大优势,可以说背靠一个巨大的客源市场(广西的旅游景点广东游客确实多);不过,广西也有很多问题,虽然离广东很近,但广西的发展似乎并不尽人意,一路上没有发现很发达的城市,工业发展也相对滞后(不过柳州工业还可以,有一定名气),道路即使是景区路也比较破旧,这一点别说和广东比,就是和湖南湖北都有差距,记得去年暑假去湖北,从三峡一直到神龙架一路上都是惊险的山路,照样修得很好;信号也不是很好,手机时不时就只有3g,2g信号,特别是在山区;农业人口也偏多,从侧面也反应了这里城市化水平的不足够,故人的思想也会有局限性(传言广西还有不少早婚早育村,在个别乡村,多子多福,重男轻女,封建迷信的思想仍十分盛行);旅游市场也不够规范,像景区道路等旅游设施不完善,收费也有不合理之处,比如动辄就要20块钱的停车费,景区门票价钱也不便宜,里面还有些有偿项目,也没有自动取票机(在广州深圳的景区玩时都有),美团购了票还是要去排队人工取票,北海最为明显,红树林公园要收每人105的门票,冠头岭森林公园也要65一人,园博园要60一人(深圳类似的景点都不要钱),涠洲岛也是因为这个原因所以这次没去了(船费贵,上岛费也贵,上面的住宿,饮食一定也不便宜,其实涠洲岛更适合单独旅游一次)广西虽号称与广东是兄弟省份,发展程度却与广东差距较大,在全国也算是中等偏后的水平,除了海岸线不如广东长,山地多,历史遗留问题等原因,主要还是观念意识的问题,如北海在广西管辖下,曾经名声大噪,这次去游客没有想象中那么爆满,就是因为问题比较多的原因吧,说句心里话,北海应该划归广东省可能发展会更好些(其实北海在内的广西沿海地区以前确实是广东的,后来为了给广西留个出海口就划给广西了)。传言广西曾想担任整个西南地区的标兵,可它自己实力有限,又担不起这样的担子;广西其实应该甘做广东的后花园,全面接受广东的人才,技术,资金,最重要的是先进的思想观念……
这就是我这几天在广西听山看海的感想。
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