这次到广州,没有提前做任何攻略,租住了员村的民宿,在好友的建议下,下载了某地图APP,有地铁和步行导航功能。休息时间看地图,看到想去的地方就出门,以步行+地铁,避开高峰期的形式每天随机逛一片区。比起坐车走马观花,步行是感受一座城市更好的方式。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/f9f07056a71cb65c.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/f5c622d9e5766944.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/883cc54a4f6864d5.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/cc296557e02932e6.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/ab57c71090dddebc.png)
天河公园与天河科技园,粤韵长廊乐声阵阵。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/cf7b46060ac8aedb.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/73367b7606ebe762.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/31960b544a51dde6.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/5fe5cf36149efc89.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/8b78636eb68566ff.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/a8d8f741309ce7bb.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/1d3b39b2581abfd5.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/36ea4ff62439a3bf.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/3ecced5f522494d9.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/fcf5d5067ee1ff4f.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/7fc32340d1899cd2.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/937fa2a30698e2d9.png)
北京路人潮如织,傍晚与入夜后的广百总店、大佛寺对比照,宋、明代遗址。步行街、越秀和荔湾区的马路上,都能看到有轨电车驰骋的身影,铿锵地诉说着这座城市的近代历史。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/28e1279b753b68bf.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/417d395a9aba1740.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/04b5af54687f6774.png)
琶洲大桥北起天河区员村,南连海珠区,标志性的V型桥墩
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/b566a95a99068cf7.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/820377efe9bdb898.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/bac5bd7acada7d3d.png)
桥上的珠江风景秀美,夜景想必很好看
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/d9fe256d18c835aa.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/ce0b0482f754b1cb.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/2efbb06dcd62ac73.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/a57bbadbd8ec2551.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/6acdb27d8d503090.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/40590e46c48d30b3.png)
广交会,国美、小米、唯品会、阿里巴巴广州总部
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/c317b0878853e23f.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/d9d0b14bac09ceba.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/8bb4f2494d45efee.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/f80821e4ab787bdb.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/96f371af4236bb25.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/b2f06d9b786944cb.png)
猎德大桥,广州日报总部以及广州塔。
珠江口支流众多,四通八达,位处广东腹地,航运与贸易优势大,桥梁自然也很多,每座都各具特色。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/f0c37d5819c4b77a.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/e9066e7ce6256ef3.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/b5b7350e2eb9d5a6.png)
一德路的骑楼街与海味铺,略有翻新,但并未抹杀每家老店铺随时间沉淀下来的气质,没有千遍一律的感觉,比端州区城中路更自然。假如你是北方人,可能会觉得骑楼挺新鲜,可以遮雨遮阳,楼下开铺做生意,楼上居住,节约土地,在潮湿炎热多雨,商业氛围浓厚的两广和福建比较常见。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/c12a559d07bcf226.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/0f886a61a68d1d95.png)
在弥撒告示牌上学到了广州话的英语
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/18864d647f17dbca.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/da11173842312cd6.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/3e56cab35f5f65fb.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/91e81dce919257cb.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/bec35fcb3ad3899c.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/1d46e693891a74b1.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/205636637a18c155.png)
圣心大教堂与文化公园内的医学历史牌,现代医学传入中国与教会传道密不可分。
这是一座哥特风格的教堂,面积很大,也很高,由花岗岩建造,玻璃上面的图案印有圣经故事。我不是信徒,也被气氛镇住了,能感受到历史的厚重感和宗教的庄严神圣,教堂外面熙熙攘攘的游客们入室后都自觉变得安静。值得一提的是教堂有规矩,不能戴帽,我戴帽被工作人员说了,真是耶稣都救不了我。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/73aa75abe2a78add.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/5d47f95d8dce4a8a.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/c069f74713a12345.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/5368f7bb1e99eca4.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/ef6edb354287ab53.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/e015536afb16f229.png)
一德路尽头是越秀儿童公园,也是越秀和荔湾区的分界线。走过马路来到十三行路,这里是大型服装批发和集散地,附近几条街的物流装卸极为繁忙,随处可见电动手推车和装卸工人,或空车疾驰,或载满包裹缓慢前进。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/5ba873edac2d06ab.png)
人民路高架桥下的有轨电车
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/68c0790ee1a5f4d0.png)
文化公园中心台
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/62700cddb83875d9.png)
白天鹅宾馆
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/c260587fa5ba6f8a.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/194ad74be28130f3.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/3e33a2b65cc896b2.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/d9676cb568f42a32.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/5b2fabc02774fb6e.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/031bd967053f01c9.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/566c40a973c076f3.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/a58d95eee4cd5182.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/7d71ba2d8f4da145.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/3eeaa6dd491d3eaa.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/4c17ddc9335219e4.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/f40005700ccd7ab7.png)
西堤,码头,人民桥,邮政博览馆和粤海关
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/09733da79bf68087.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/942f91d59c2d72e2.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/be2d9d9289e3adaf.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/7095ddc604cb8080.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/297c9be22534addd.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/1d72381a54c0c110.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/93e11d497e173dcc.png)
白云山,没有体力登顶。根据地图APP指引需要坐三号线北延段到永泰站,结果终点站变成了同和站,不清楚是地图指引有误还是站点最近有变更,只得提前下车。出站步行两公里才到白云山入口,考虑到还要留体力回家,爬到半山腰就撤退了。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/13c988a2e33686cc.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/619ebb0075ce3581.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/03f7757db2cd6437.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/72ceeb13e89029d5.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/ad1382fadba1ae25.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/c2dd3bd113d5f7a5.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/8d986cfda1b11644.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/a19a25fdcc0de346.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/5566ba36cf79fcff.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/06a05c2c21ab5a7d.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/0c773fe4fcec66fb.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/7da777502cbdfc84.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/773cea200185d670.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/09607437bfdb3ccb.png)
黄埔古港,与长洲岛、大学城隔江相望。从图中湿滑的地面和江中的水花可以看出这天下雨了,还有古港特色的艇仔粥,鱼皮,虾饼,生蚝罗氏虾和双皮奶。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/6ee8efe3a3e40285.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/90e2b7fce18619f2.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/9f6d09aa91c73304.png)
这是天河员村边的珠江干流广场,有遛狗、遛鸟、钓鱼、跳广场舞的人们。江风缓缓吹过,在广州核心区域难得感受到“慢”,惬意,缓和,身心得到舒展。
天河越秀这些核心区节奏快,人流量大,吃快餐总是准备好的饭菜夹给你,打给你,先付款后吃,翻台率高,而肇庆往往是点了才现炒现做,吃完才慢慢付账。
无尽的加班,拥挤的地铁线,寸土寸金的居住成本构成了生活。员村租赁市场非常活跃,线下竟比线上更活跃,房东和中介举着牌,骑着电动车四处揽客,长租和短租客络绎不绝询价。窄巷,握手楼,独栋门禁,较差的隔音,压缩的空间。租客们很容易互相影响,压抑,以致手机电脑声音不敢外放,也懒得点外卖,懒得下楼取,两餐并做一餐吃。阳光属于奢侈品,月租金2000以下的单间见不到太阳,我下榻的民宿同样见不到太阳,衣服靠空调吹干,无日无夜。
在这里我感受到一种有别于无人乡下,另一种意义的死气沉沉,无奈、虚无、迷失。这里似乎什么都有,又似乎什么都没有,好像活着,又好像死了,搞不清楚活着还是死了。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/7b787ea957a623a0.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/6cc92b09a5242090.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/d90d32a25efc3e7e.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/6b5e13d5d0d0d1b1.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/a4fe7c4ae1e1ba75.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/472b7dc6a6fb4768.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/a24f2ea3405e4bdc.png)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/9b55eebd8d3f3345.png)
天河城,天环,正佳广场,天河体育中心,也有广百和太古汇,晚上10点多依然限流的地铁3号线,最核心商圈,距离珠江新城只有一站。
大,是广州另一个特色,正佳广场很大,有科学展览,有植物园,竟然还有海洋馆。北京路的广百总店商业区有10层之多,小城市的人流量支撑不起,商业广场5层以上就不会有人逛了。
城中村又多又大,以员村来说,面积5.371平方公里,常住人口超过10万,相当于比较大的县城。这样规模的城中村有很多个,没有小区,没有物业,单间出租为主,通常没有冰箱,也没有炉灶,疫情开放始于广州,它们发挥了作用。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i25339089/29277bec1846d3de.png)
最后是这颗“二万”的麻将,喝广州某品牌茶饮送的,似乎每杯盖上随机镶嵌一颗,如果要凑满一套,需要喝多少杯?“二万”承载着珍贵的回忆,在我胡不出牌的人生中哗啦啦地落下一子。
原文:《广州游记》
微信公从号:小修罗投资
网友评论