(闲来无事翻旧文,摘自2011《天涯六女黄山闲行记》)
到达宏村已是下午四点多,雨初歇,太阳从厚厚的云层中探出一点点脑袋,洒下缕缕光线,远远望去,绿树掩映下的宏村泛着淡淡金光,一如几回回梦里相约的场景。
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从穿过检票口第一眼看见南湖起,我的心便已沦陷。姐妹们都跟着导游且听且行,我却迟迟无法迈步。几缕夕阳映照下的南湖真美呀!一潭如镜澄碧,将那天光云影、黛瓦白墙、远山近屋、行人垂柳一一揽入怀中,分不清哪处是水中、哪处是岸上。当微风轻轻拂过湖面,当湖里白鹅悠闲划掌,水中的风景在一片涟漪中慢慢起皱模糊,顿时一幅泼墨重彩的写意山水长卷便呈现在眼前。
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一路缓缓前行,用相机,用眼睛,用心灵去接收所有一切,前一刻沦陷的心慢慢安静,忘记了自己只是一位过客,只想与宏村象亲人一般亲近。穿过长堤,走过画中桥,那是一池怎样的荷花啊?莲叶亭亭,诱惑着,又分明拒绝着,宛如一个女子温柔的眼神,眼波流转处,那朵朵或绽放或含苞的荷花,那粉粉的笑颜,直叫人不忍离去。
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幽深的巷子里,踏着色泽青纯、古朴沉着的石板路,顺着水渠,穿行在粉墙黛瓦、鳞次栉比的古民居中,这渠水和这些粉墙黛瓦好像形成了千年的默契,房屋因水而灵动,水因房屋而稳重。走在村子里,触目皆是“飞檐雕栋,钩心斗角”的徽派建筑,古巷老屋都浸透了悠远的文化,那种古朴厚重的底蕴,渗透进了这里的每片瓦,每堵墙,每条沟渠,每扇窗棂,每块木雕,每颗树,每个人......
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绕着月沼而行,一群画画的学生三三两两地围塘而坐,他们在用画笔凝固眼前的风景。游人们或漫步月沼,或悄然驻足,观池内水平如镜,蓝天白云,高墙深院皆倒映其中,如一幅巨大的山水画。此时此景,所有的描绘都是累赘,只能用心灵来感受它的澄净与纯粹,无怪乎,古人吟诗感叹:“一生痴绝处,无梦到徽州”!
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暮色四合,我们重新走回那些深深仄仄的小巷,看村民在门前的小渠中洗洗涮涮,看劳作一天的人们蹲在家门口吃饭,看那老房子里透出的柔和的灯光,慢慢走回南湖,走回荷塘。少了如织的游人,暮色中的荷塘尤其婉约柔美。一丝不动的莲叶,半遮半掩含苞欲放的荷花,伴着稀稀疏疏的蛙声,还有远处传来的蝉鸣,这样一副美丽绝伦的画卷,让人不忍触摸。那位依池席地而坐的女子,抬首低头间在想些什么呢?唯有那水那叶那花知你的心吧?
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暮色短暂,宏村渐渐安静了,池水悠悠平息了喧闹,家家户户门口高挂的灯笼也亮起了桔色的光,我们也该离去了,归还宏村山山水水原该有的宁静与寂寞。
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