典雅之爱与十字军东征
公元1100年-1200年
潮流在十二世纪逐渐绚丽起来 -- 一个十字军，罗曼史与骑士精神的时代。
十字军
一种活泼有品味的潮流风尚在地中海沿岸自南向北传播开来。
服饰变得更合身诱人，第一时间展现身体曲线。
歌颂典雅爱情故事的效果，就是引起人们对拥有，花边下展现绣花的宽松连衣丝绸礼服的幻想。
服装剪裁仍旧以矩形和三角形面料为主，但是花边打破了直筒造型与曲线造型之间的不平衡。
即便是平民女性穿着她们的袍子也更加贴合腰部，手臂和臀部。
男性服饰也加长并且收身了。
贵族男女都穿着布里奥特briaut与布里亚尔brial，一款用昂贵丝绸精心制作，带有拖地下摆与长袖的袍子。
配饰都是长的，包括尖头鞋，长发，精致斗篷与披风。
宗教与世俗风格开始不同。
布里奥特
丝绸
这块带有狮子与鹰身女妖图案的彩花细锦缎丝绸碎片，展示了十二世纪织布者的非凡技艺。
奢华的丝绸纺织品是极其稀有与昂贵的，它们拥有引人注目的名字像samite锦缎，Alexandria ciclaton，taffeta塔夫绸还有lampas兰帕细花锦缎，在这个充满罗曼故事的年代被记录了下来。
丝绸不但丰满又挺括，它的价值还体现在精美，透明与轻盈。
丝绸是理想的高端礼物，它们轻便且不易损坏，是理想的长途旅行携带品。
兰帕细花锦缎
COURTLY LOVE AND CRUSADES
1100-1200
Fashion became increasingly flamboyant in the 12th century -- a time of crusaders, romances, and chivalry.
Vivacious, sophisticated fashions cultivated in the south spread north from Mediterranean shores.
Clothing became more seductively fitted, showing the body's shape for the first time.
Southern dress
Tales of courtly love celebrated this effect, conjuring visions of figure-hugging silk gowns revealing embroidered chemises beneath laced sides.
Garments were still based mainly on rectangular and triangular fabric cuts, but with lacing to crush straight shapes against the curved figure.
Even ordinary women wore their tunics more closely over waist, arms, and hips.
Men's clothing also lengthened and tightened.
Noble people of both sexes wore the bliaut or brial, a tunic made of fine, expensive silk with trailing hems and long sleeves.
Accessories were long, pointed shoes, long hair, and elaborate cloaks and mantles.
Religious and secular clothing styles began to differ.
Long lines braides
SILK
This fragment of silk lampas with a pattern of lions and harpies shows the extraordinary skill of 12th-century weavers.
Luxury silk textiles were highly prized and expensive, with alluring names like samite, Alexandria ciclaton, taffeta, and lampas recorded in romance tales of the times.
Silks were either rich and stiff or valued for their delicacy, transparency, and light draping.
Silks made ideal high-status gifts, since they were light and unbreakable during long-distance travel.
-- 《THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE》
Samite
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