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Rihanna Disrupts Luxury Fashion World, Joining LVMH With 'Fenty' Brand
Rihanna专辑封面图1—图片来自网络
LULU GARCIA-NAVARRO, HOST:You may know her for her music. But for the past few years, she's been breaking barriers in other industries - makeup and fashion. She's now the first woman and the first woman of color to launch a fashion line with the historic LVMH or Moet Hennessey - Louis Vuitton, the world's largest luxury group. The line will be called Fenty, which is the singer's last name. But it's also the name to the cosmetics empire she launched in 2017. To talk to us about this moment and what it means for the industry, we're joined by Tanisha Ford. She's a professor of Africana studies at the University of Delaware and often writes about fashion and black identity.Welcome.
TANISHA FORD: Hello.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: It is hard, I think, to overstate what a big deal this is.
FORD: This is indeed a major moment for luxury fashion. And it's a major moment for people who come of age in the hip-hop generation. We see a woman of color with this much creative control in a luxury market where, typically, European men have dominated. We have a woman from Barbados who is now the face of a luxury empire.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: You know, Fenty, as a fashion line, is the first new line to join the LVMH family since 1987, which is extraordinary. But I wonder, what does it say about the fashion industry itself? You mention that it has taken so long for a woman and a person of color to join the scene.
FORD: Right. So if we think about what luxury fashion has meant for centuries, really, it's an idea that it's a market for the most exclusive people in the world. It reflects a lifestyle that very few people in the world live. And, therefore, for most of us, it's just a fantasy. So by nature, it wasn't a market that was designed for everyday people of color to participate in it. But what we see is that in recent years, that same old-guard fashion industry has been under attack. They're consistently getting it wrong in terms of releasing fashion goods that viewers and people who wear the fashions have considered racist. A lot of these luxury brands have been accused of cultural appropriation over the year. And people who are fashion critics and everyday fashion-lovers have said, well, part of the problem is you have a diversity issue. You don't have people of color at the highest ranks of your fashion industry.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: Yeah. African Americans have a buying power of up to $1.2 trillion, so their economic impact is huge. I mean, it seems like this is not only good for the brand, and it takes it into the 21st century. But it's also good economic sense.
FORD: Exactly. And that's the thing that black communities have been trying to say to the fashion industry, particularly the haute couture fashion industry, for decades - especially the hip-hop generations who have rapped about Gucci and Louis Vuitton and Givenchy and all these designer brands. You know, we've put those things on the map.
(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "FORMATION")BEYONCE: (Rapping) I'm so reckless when I rock my Givenchy dress.
(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "STRONGER")KANYE WEST: (Rapping) Awesome - the Christian in Christian Dior - damn, they don't make 'em like this anymore.
(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "ROLLIN")CARDI B: (Rapping) That Louis Vuitton, our uniform - 24 karat - my grills.
(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "MERCY")2 CHAINZ: (Rapping) Black diamonds - backpack rhyming - co-signed by Louis Vuitton.
(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "HENNESSY")2PAC: (Rapping) Hennessy - just pour me a glass - Hennessy.
(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "BIG POPPA")BIGGIE SMALLS: (Rapping) The back of the club sipping Moet is where you'll find me.
FORD: Even the Moet and Hennessy lines of alcohol that LVMH represents - so it's like, why wouldn't you recognize our buying power? Why do you continue to sell these goods to your ideal customer, who is a white buyer? But with Rihanna - she's not just a figurehead. She is the leader of a house. And that is major.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: So with everything that you're saying about this, is it enough, though?
FORD: I think that it's a step in a positive direction. I think that representation matters. And so this is, indeed, a lovely moment to see. But I think that we need to see a multi-prong approach. So I would love for Rihanna to not be the only. I would love to see this be a model that other luxury brands and other more well-price-pointed brands accept as well. And I'd like to also see the end of this notion that luxury is not for people of color because it excludes a large part of the buying market. And it means that black and brown people are highly susceptible to racial profiling and hyper-policing when they do go into luxury stores to buy these good.
GARCIA-NAVARRO: Tanisha Ford is a professor of Africana studies at the University of Delaware and the author of the upcoming book "Dressed In Dreams: A Black Girl's Love Letter To The Power Of Fashion."Thank you so much.
FORD: Thank you, Lulu.
(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "PON DE REPLAY")RIHANNA: (Singing) Mr. DJ, song pon de replay. Come, Mr. DJ, won't you turn the music up?
Rihanna专辑封面图2-图片来自网络
知识点笔记：
1.disrupt: If someone or something disrupts an event, system, or process, they cause difficulties that prevent it from continuing or operating in a normal way. 中断，打破，这里指“颠覆”
e.g. It's classic disruptive technology.这是典型的颠覆性技术。
2.breaking barriers in other industries：很形象的表达，就是中文的“跨界”
3.launch:(1)to start something, usually something big or important开展重大活动(2)to make a new product, book etc available for sale for the first time新品发布e.g. 1文中句子：launch a fashion line；the cosmetics empire she launched in 2017
2The organization has launched a campaign to raise $150,000.
3190508文章中句子：5G networks have already been launched in test markets in South Korea, China, Japan and the U.S. Samsung is launching its first 5G-enabled phone, the Galaxy S10 5G, on May 14.
4.It is hard, I think, to overstate what a big deal this is. 毫不夸张，怎么说都不为过
5.复习：这里也用dominate the market表示占领市场，回忆一下上一篇文章190512中刚讲过这个词。
6.join the scene: You can refer to an area of activity as a particular type of scene . 圈子；领域
e.g 1.Sandman is a cult figure on the local music scene.（音乐圈、音乐界）
2....when he first burst onto the national political scene at age 28.（政坛）
7.exclusive:If you describe something as exclusive, you mean that it is limited to people who have a lot of money or who belong to a high social class, and is therefore not available to everyone.高级的；奢华的
e.g.1.He is already a member of Britain's most exclusive club...
2.Bel Air is an exclusive suburb of Los Angeles.
3.an exclusive girls' school
- get it wrong:understand a situation in the wrong way错误理解；误会
e.g.No, no – you've got it all wrong! We're just friends! - don't get me wrong(spoken): used when you think someone may understand your remarks wrongly, or be offended by them.（口语使用）别误会
e.g. Don't get me wrong – I like Jenny.
9.exactly：口语中常用于肯定回答，意思和"yes"同。因此，下次聊天要说yes时，可以试试换成exactly.
10.haute couture：高级时装、高级时装制作
11.put ...on the map:If you say that someone or something put a person, thing, or place on the map, you approve of the fact that they made it become well-known and important.使出名;使名扬四方
e.g. 1...the attempts of the Edinburgh Festival's organisers to put C.P. Taylor firmly on the map...
2.This could put cider back on the map as one of our great national drinks.
12.soundbite:a very short part of a speech or statement, especially one made by a politician, that is broadcast on a radio or television news programme原意指新闻中政客演讲的原话片段，这里指声音片段
13.buying power：购买力
14.figurehead: someone who seems to be the leader of a country or organization but who has no real power, similar to "puppet"傀儡
15.prong: one of two or three ways of achieving something which are used at the same time方面，部分
e.g. 1.The shareholder rights movement has two prongs...
2.The second prong of the strategy is the provision of basic social services for the poor.
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