FASHION ICON
Routinely dismissed as a shallow fop, George Bryan (“Beau”) Brummell was far more than the fashion arbiter for Regency England.
The first true dandy, and enormously influential, he helped overturn men’s fashions in the early 1800s and pave the way for modern menswear.
He also became an archetypal, appearance—a phenomenon still familiar today.
Brummell developed a close friendship with George, Prince of Wales (the Prince Regent and later King George IV), and became fashion and etiquette adviser to the prince and his court.
His influence spread widely both in England and France.
YOUNG BRUMMELLMODERN MENSWEAR
Said to have been tall and fair, Brummell probably justified his nickname.
Brummell’s bold simplicity was a take on the English country gentleman’s sportswear, and fit with the neoclassical revolutionary spirit of the era.
It featured a plain white linen shirt, immaculately bleached and starched; a fitted, pale waistcoat (vest); a short-fronted, double-breasted, swallow-tailed wool coat, dark blue or black; fitted pantaloon pants rather than knee breeches; a white linen neck cloth tied showily (Brummell often fastened it in a “waterfall” of flowing layers); and a top hat.
时尚偶像
在众多的纨绔子弟当中,布鲁梅尔(Beau Brummell)远远超过英格兰摄政时期的那些时尚领导者。他是第一个真正的花花公子,极具影响力,在他的帮助下19世纪早期的男装时尚被推翻,这为摩登男装铺平了道路。
他也同时成为时尚的典范—这种现象如今依然在发生。
布鲁梅尔与乔治威尔斯王子(摄政王王子也是后来的乔治四世)建立了密切的友谊,也同时称为王子和其皇室的时尚与礼仪顾问。
他的影响力在英格兰及法国广泛传播。
摩登男装
被人宣扬高调与公平,布鲁梅尔证明了他的昵称。
布鲁梅尔式的大胆简约是基于英国绅士运动服之上,并且贴合新古典主义时代革命精神的款式。
它以纯白亚麻衬衫为特点,漂白之后上浆;一件合身剪裁的浅色背心;前短后长,深色或黑色的双排扣燕尾羊毛外套;合身的老头裤pantaloon而不再是及膝马裤;一块华丽地白色亚麻领巾,布鲁梅尔经常把它系成流动的瀑布式样);以及头顶上的帽子。
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