#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON

FASHION ICON

Daughter of Anne Boleyn and Henry VIII, Elizabeth I ruled England between 1558 and 1603.

She inherited many of her father's characteristics, including clever use of image and clothing to cement power and excite the adoration of her people.

Her wardobe was legendary, recorded in portraits that publicized the Protestant queen's self-made mythology.

Some of her growns even went on display in the Tower of London during her lifetime to impress foreign visitors.

Her shrewdness, intelligence, and ruthlessness made her a political force, just as the magnificence of huge ruffs trimmed with devastatingly expensive handmade lace, enormous embroidered sleeves,

and large, structured, bejeweled stomachers turned her into a glittering fashion icon who loved to be admired.

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON

The language of dress

Elizabeth emphaisized her tall, slender frame -- and her status -- with regal headdresses.

French hoods and jeweled caps were the perfect foil to set off her flaming red hair.

An iconic hairstyle saw her curls twisted over supports to frame her face like a heart with two large puffs on either side.

Haloes of pearls and gold outlined the edges of the hairstyle.

Symbolism made Elizabeth's dress and accessories even more compelling.

Pearls -- worn as long ropes, seed pearls, and pendant drops -- were a favorite.

As a symbol of purity and chastity they were most appropriate for this Virgin Queen who put her nation before personal happiness.

She wears them in almost every portrait from the age of 13, when she was painted wearing sumptuous red silk damask and furs.

Her love of fashion, ornament, luxury velvets, damasks, and brocades as well as her use of striking colors finally found expression when she became queen at 25.

Elizabeth favored red, gold, and silver to complement her pure white complexion and ruddy hair color.

She adopted black and white as her personal colors -- a dramatic background for her jewelry and long, elegant fingers.

A poet described her as coming in "like starlight, thick with jewels."

Other symbolic items included a phoenix pendant -- the fabled bird that rose from the ashes and spoke of the Queen's uniqueness, power, and chastity.

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON

A royal legacy

Elizabeth's self-fashioning was so successful that she remains an icon in modern times.

Her image has been developed in movies and television series and inspired designers.

The tight bodices, bold shapes, huge ruffs, and regal aura have fed into the work of fashion designers as diverse as Jean Paul Gaultier, Martin Margiela, and Vivienne Westwood.

Westwood, for example, has showcased slashed fabric, large, regal gowns, ruffs, and enormous collars, while many generally "futurist" fashions feature arrestingly angular shapes reminiscent of Elizabethan style.

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON

时尚风向标

安妮博林与亨利八世的女儿伊丽莎白一世，在1558到1603年间统治了英格兰。

她继承了许多父亲的特点，包括巧妙运用形象与衣着来巩固权威，激发人民的崇拜。

她的衣橱是个传奇，画像中记录了新教女王自治成功的神话。

一部分她曾经穿过的服饰在伦敦塔里展示，供外国游客瞻仰。

她的城府，智慧以及无情成为她的政治手段，如她那巨大壮丽昂贵的手工花边与绣花袖子一样，大型，结构化，珠光宝气的肚兜，将她变成一个闪光的时尚偶像，被人仰慕。

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON

服装的语言

伊丽莎白喜爱强调她高挑修长的外形，她的身份，以及豪华头饰。

法式面罩与珠宝圆帽是完美的间隔，衬托她火红的头发。

从标志性的发型上可以看到他卷曲的头发扭转盘起，使她的脸看起来像一颗心架在两边巨大的泡泡袖上。

珍珠与金饰的圆环发饰勾勒出发型的边缘。

象征主义使伊丽莎白的衣服与配饰更加引人注目。

珍珠，长长串起的小珠搭配吊坠，是她的最爱。

作为纯洁与贞洁的象征，这位维珍女王是最适合的统治人选，她将国家放在个人幸福之上。

从十三岁开始，几乎每一张肖像里她都戴着它们，画画的时候她还会穿着奢华的红色丝绸锦缎与毛皮。

她热衷时尚，装饰，奢侈丝绒和锦缎，在她二十五岁成为女王时她对醒目色彩的运用终于得到了表现。

伊丽莎白喜爱红色，金色还有银色来衬托她雪白的肤色与红润的红发。

她将黑色与白色作为她自己的专属颜色，一种戏剧式的背景来烘托她的珠宝与细长优雅的手指。

一位诗人描述她 “星光灿烂，珠光宝气”。

其他的象征物品包括凤凰吊坠，传说从灰烬中升起的神鸟，用来描述女王的独特，权利与贞洁。

#每天读一点服装史# FASHION ICON

皇室的传奇

伊丽莎白的时尚形象是非常成功的，至今她仍然是一个风向标。

她的形象已经在电影电视以及启发设计师中得到发展。

隐身胸衣，大胆轮廓，巨型花边以及奢华光环都被时尚设计师们所运用。

例如，westwood展示了如何作面料开口，宽大长袍已经巨型领子，甚至许多“未来主义”风格上也能令人想起伊丽莎白时代拘谨的轮廓。

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL 2013