警告:我中文写作风格迥异,谨慎开始,欲罢不能很痛苦;英文是2013年11月12月旅游写的Blog!
我们花20 Pesos tuktuk(电动车)到城里,车破的犹如被火烧过,玻璃也没有;downtown很多法式和西班牙式建筑,破旧程度需要迫切装修;最重要的政府Capitolio在永久装修中,对面小公园也叫Central Park,好多人在那里聊天和杂耍,和纽约中央公园区别不要太大哦;我们去了唯一一个有Internet酒店,10美金一张卡还要费很多周折而且不好链接,我联系外界的愿望彻底消失了!
接头无处不见的艺术 随随便便街头乐队音乐无语伦比Iya带我去的商店都很无聊,我请她吃外国人必须用CUC买的冰激凌,她第一次吃,说了一大长串赞美。她对历史的了解非常惊人,我有过预习还是膜拜她对年月日的精准;碰到她的学校教授同事在卖画,生意不好;另外一个音乐家同事,问她是否晚上去一个婚礼上演奏挣点外快,每个人她都聊很长时间,非常认真,看得出这些男人对她都有眷恋,陪她聊,告别非常正式繁杂庸长,要不是我艰难的想听懂他们聊天细节和吞咽的很多音节,不耐烦症会发作好几次!
central park表演刚开始走路,她妈妈电话让我们去吃午饭,Iya说马上回去然后说时间是弹性的,我们继续走到河边,和她一起我全部注意力集中听她讲故事和历史,她非常骄傲告诉我古巴从来不是殖民地,短暂的西班牙和美国殖民都被赶走了;我要求买个礼物给她妈妈,Iya领我到外国人买东西店里,买了一盒雀巢咖啡伴侣,西班牙产的,她说妈妈之前很喜欢,好久没买了。等我们到了吃饭的地方,发现是一个牙医的私人诊所和庭院(在Havana是上层社会街区),一个很绅士老头和Iya妈妈一起,估计是情人关系。妈妈讲一些英语,嫁给过一个俄罗斯人,能量很足不是个按部就班的传统女人;午餐是特意为我到来准备的虾和plantains+beans,Iya花了很多时间夸奖beans(常见的黑豆)多么好吃,运用各种形容词夸一顿简单的饭,我学会很多冷僻的形容词和感叹句;一段午饭足足吃了2.30小时,还有一个生日蛋糕,在当地很难得的奢侈品;我理解是为我特别准备的,时间都花在聊天上,我听不懂其他人西班牙语,口音太重。牙医投诉经济危机使得他的工具进口有问题,妈妈很睿智讲“我们有了应有一切,大家开开心心最重要;也许其他国家生活更富裕,但古巴人生来自带快乐,政治改变不了就忽略它!”我好喜欢这对大智慧母女;难怪拴得住在当地备受尊敬的牙医!
最好的款待尊贵客人Brunch 生日蛋糕是奢侈品牙医儿子Julio邀请我们晚上参加一个concert;我下午出去跑步,感觉很安全,虽然有人喊“Chino中国妞”,但没有放狗和自己追我(在其他拉美国家有过这种可怕经历),Iya要求我安全起见7点前回去,我很听话。
音乐会是在一个小palace里面的户外庭院,Iya认识表演的音乐家Pulmer,告诉我他的落魄故事,很多和女人有关;活动是专门为古巴旅游外国人准备的,只收CUC,我很高兴为Julio和Iya买单,Mojito必须喝啊,确实比其他国家地道;Julio很高兴服务我们,就是他的口音太重, 听起来就是鸟语,严重打击我讲西班牙语自信和兴趣;食物非常不健康,肉食为主,这些外国人明显的被苛刻疯了,吃喝都不节制;我很得意自己是唯一和当地人混在一起的外国人,场景无异于中国很多年前外国人聚堆群体,完全不了解当地人真实想法,我非常感叹无论外国人还是当地人吃喝方式都很不健康,无疑健康不是第一考虑的因素!
三人行,Mojito超赞 古巴乐队名副其实世界最好乐队音乐质量非常高,Cuban music never let u down!主唱Pulmer看起来是人生loser,唱起来变成人生赢家,他对Iya明显有企图,两个人一个不停投诉,一个不停安慰;真服了Iya的耐心;跳起舞来,Julio突然由一个平庸的中年男人变成一个风流倜傥的男人,就是话还是说不利索(我听不懂);最amazing是Iya,她跳起舞来优雅诱人,具备贵族淑女和拉丁浪荡舞女双重诱惑,难怪好多男人为她倾倒,女人也不例外(我)!
Iya跳舞迷人而有诱惑感凌晨我们走在boulevard中间,没有车辆,Julio路边摘了鲜花给我们,Iya开始用身心表达无穷的赞美和欣赏,好像送的是Cartier钻戒,我们马路中间疯了一阵,我很惊奇看到Julio和我们回了家,倒上一杯自来水,又开始讲鸟语,我彻底崩溃了!
接下来日子一定要把Iya独占,我开始盘算...................
Morning of 26th nov.
凌晨一起浪 Julio竟然和我们回了家Was so tired last night in the hotel terrace almost felt into sleep a few moments and decaffine cafe con leche is tasting rich! That is how it is very few things here but all taste real and original!
Back to the story....finally went out and got into a shared taxi for 20 pesos total, taxi or guaguo do not know exactly how to spell it is always poor and poor door broken no glass or like just being burned or whatever...the closer to old town more ancient buildings and looking mixed with Spanish some French but most of them need some big work! People hanging around as Sunday morning! We started with Capitolio national kind of amazing building in renovation of course surrounded by colonial buildings some are hotels then Central Park, well not my Central Park but a classics local center with people hanging around and Iya showed me the Hotel with internet
Now am in the class of flute flauja of Iya in her ancient music school with 100 plus students but 200 faculties she is coaching 2 students which is amazing to see as I was one point want to learn flute which is not as easy as looks! But elegant enough and stand to play! The girls are looking all pretty and mixed as a tech graduate which can work after 4 years here or to school, why Cubans is so excellent with their education the attention is incredible here with level of education!
Old town has old building and one key pedestrian street which is most touristic one with shop for foreigners to take only CUC but ice cream shop take pesos we got coco ice verse and chocolate one total 15 and small market but not much overwhelming stuff not really too many choices and shops are with some basic things mostly and bakery with 5 choices all looking unhealthy sweet. Iya knows a lot about history there and her friend has a small gallery not my type but he is a professor from the same school and now businessman! Another friend is a musician we met on street everyone she knows she takes a lot of time talking to them most I do not understand when they speak between as fast and swallow a lot of words!
We just started walking her mother called for lunch already and anyhow according to her it is flexible so we keep on walking to the riverside where the main square la plaza de armas locate with more ancient buildings my focus is not there more on conversation with her! Eventually we have to find a guoguo back home I thought but end up on calle 23 entering a friend house which is locating in the Main Street with a narrow entrance then realizing it is her mother friend place which I was not sure if she lives there or partner of the old guy who is a dentist! The mother has good energy and speak even good English then Talking about her marriage to a Russian guy and lived there etc. Iya is born there even and the son is preparing the lunch, Julio and I was not expecting much as knowing things are simple: rice, black beans which are delicious and some salad and even shrimps with plantains quite a feast they set up table nicely but u can tell all very old and not that clean either....but nice and I enjoy it very Much and feel funny that Iya keeps on giving compliment to the beans which I doubt how different u can make beans more delicious:+) people just is complimenting here so with me with my limited vocabulary and not understanding others Spanish besides Iya and her mother who speaks better for my ear!
A big and long lunch and some more people appearing, a twin kids which are granddaughter and daughter appears then celebrating her birthday with a cake Which is the most luxury thing in bakery shop even I took a piece with cream as it is precious locally! The old dentist complain the economic crisis with all his material importing but mother says Nothing matters as long as people have fun and life with whatever they have! Such a good mentality among the family!
Long lunch even with little choices then wine then cafe....mine is local one with sugar without asking but good! A long goodbye again we meet Julio later for a concert and walk back home the Iya mother is a wise woman talking about how to let politics go if people no influence on it and also outside cuba people have better material life but not happy as Cuban are which they born with this! How wonderful!
Back home I got some time to run to the cemetery through some narrow path but all quite safe if no worry about dog chasing me, people appear reasonable peaceful sometimes guys shout out chino but no bother much, around the cemetery a bit lost then find way back as the apartment is so close to the highest tower in the city: monument revolution! Just about 7pm as Iya requested! We walk to the concert hall which is like a small palace appearing story as lover gift whatever and did not expect anything but it is a big outdoor dinner setting with band that Iya knows one key performer of course! Julio is very excited and try to cheer up us very much we had mojito since in cuba, it is a place for CUC and I am more than happy to pay for them and expensive for local salary! From 7pm up to 10pm people just waiting for the performance at Least I am and all foreigner come including my young friend Lukas, the performer is talking hot with Iya with a bottle of rum and coca, I was even drinking with them and got even sleepy before the show which might start only 10.30pm! All the people sitting for dinner which is a horrible food in my taste as I saw them how to prepare it and it is boring and not really Looking good! But all these foreigners eat it anyhow with anxiety they are missing the meat after sometime here I guess! I am happy I am with my local friends even they talk fast I do not understand this reminds me a bit back to early days in china how foreigner place is popular where Chinese try to fit in but never! Mojito is with many sugar and mine is not finishing but the musician "pulmer" is famous according to Iya has a love for the rum and is fat with some anxiety about art or just an excuse to drink like a hell....a few local men I see is not healthy all with a standing out belly and drink a lot....it is crazy how unhealthy life is with such cheap living even!
Performer is more on entertaining side then art and a lady singer is very good at this and pulmer band is better one that when music starts, transfors Julio otherwise he is just a mid age man speaking some meaningless things to me, he dances well but Iya is amazing with very elegant movement! She is the lady I like very much! Lukas came to say hi and he is nice but not the people u want to hang out in cuba and he is way to young with his rum and young friends! It is a fun experience for sure very local but eventually I got a bit too tired and both Iya and pulmer is still in hot ylak one complaint and one illustrating how life can be....I was so not into jazz club but can tell if yes they will go for it but walking alone in the middle of boulevard is fun and Julio picks up flowers which I learned is common here and Iya appreciates with all her heart...I was surprised to see in mid night Julio came to home with us and sitting there to have a water....quite a funny customs or not? Anyhow we set up a trip to Cojimar...quite an exciting day with so many learning and local experience!!!
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写得不错,很喜欢。