斯诺登尼亚,彭布罗克郡,两个不是那么如雷贯耳的英国景区名字,却在第一眼看到的时候就深深埋在心底了。英国有15个国家公园,已经去过的有六个:Peak District,Lake District,Yorkshire Dales,North Yorshire Moors,Loch Lomond & Trossachs,Cairngorms Natonal park,前四个在英格兰中北部,后两个在苏格兰中北部,风景多以山脉,森林,溪流,荒原,草地为主。而海岸线的徒步,只在康沃的天涯海角Land's End有过一点点,这次威尔士环游,从西北边的斯诺登尼亚到西南角的彭布罗克郡,打卡Snowdonia National Park和Pembrokeshire Coast National Park,对热爱hiking,但经验并不太多的我来说,算是一场壮举了。
旅途从位于英格兰和威尔士交界的切斯特(Chester)开始,一座有历史悠久,有美丽教堂和街景的小镇开始。
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一路向西,进入威尔士地区,所有的路牌指示语都变成了先威尔士语后英语两种文字,在River Dee的入海口的沙滩Talacre短暂停留,这里的沙丘(Dune)长满野草,气势狂野,海滩上还遇到一只巨大的水母。
位置如下:
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旅程一路向西,沿着A55,过了班戈(Bangor),跨过Britannia Bridge,来到威尔士最西北角的安格尔西岛(Isle of Anglesey),英格兰和威尔士面积最大的岛,和威尔士南部相比,这里的一切算是Authentic Welsh了,小酒馆里听到了纯正的威尔士语,凯尔特语的分支之一,一个越来越少的人会说的语言,和英语非常不一样,听起来挺好听的。
Pub里的经典食物,给足了第二天徒步需要的热量:
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开始环岛游的位置如下:
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一路的海岸线美得不像是荒凉的十二月,以下全是相机原图:
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还有当晚发的朋友圈:这算是我目前为止的人生的顶级体验了,图都是手机拍的,当时还没来得及整理相机:
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还有一些手机拍的沿途海岸线:
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i5958364/22b9267cbda69272.jpg)
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环岛游完成,沿着斯诺登尼亚山脉(英格兰和威尔士的最高点)南下,在Harlech Castle驻足,登上城堡,远眺爱尔兰海。位置如下:
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继续南下,一路的风景很美,即使头顶有乌云,山脉的颜色依旧红绿掩映,绵羊洁白,隔着车玻璃拍了些许,发现SLOW用威尔士语怎么说了吗?ARAF。
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继续南下,在中部一个叫Aberystwyth的小镇驻足,Aberystwyth University就在海边,据说是英国留学成本最低的大学:
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在暮色将要沉下去的时候,空中突然飞来了成百上千只鸟,体型比海鸥小很多,速度极快,造型变换,仿佛一场航空秀,看呆了众人。
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再往南开,一路大雾弥漫,宛若仙境,海天相连,若隐若现,仿佛这一路都在天上前行。到达彭布罗克郡,休整一晚,第二天的海边徒步虽然没有赶上夕阳西下,但风景依旧绝美。从一个小村庄出发,沿着河畔,穿过树林,走着走着就走到了入海口,脚下的泥泞变成了柔软的沙滩,再从沙滩走到礁石,悬崖,峭壁,一路上仍有金雀花(Gorse)盛开,加上由紫变红的石楠花(Heather) ,冬季依旧色彩缤纷。
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从彭布罗克郡一路向东,沿着M4,途径斯旺西,卡迪夫,这两个17年去过的南威尔士的城市,现在看来那一点点威尔士初体验还是很青涩的,并没有真正领略威尔士宏伟壮丽的美。再途径布里斯托,一路向东就回到了雷丁。
今后再去斯诺登尼亚和彭布罗克郡,再挑战难度更大的hiking甚至是camping,再回头看这次环游,又会觉得青涩了吧。
真正领略一个地方的美,可能得一次不够两次,两次不够三次地去不断探索挖掘,真正深入腹地,深入没有中国人遍地的local小镇,甚至深入没有人烟的大山深处,一定会获得比在镇中心的商业区逛吃更加难忘的人生体验。
还有一个感受,以前一直觉得英国的夏天是最美的,只有夏天才有满目的绿色,晴朗的天空,盛开的鲜花,而冬天只有阴雨绵绵,枯枝萧瑟。而这一次威尔士环游,我才第一次感受冬天的英国竟然也是五彩斑斓的,金黄色的金雀花在十二月依旧绽放,秋天的紫色石楠花在冬天变成了红色,与绿草黄花相映成趣。
如英格兰长期对威尔士有偏见一般,还有很多很多偏见,如不真正踏上那里的土地,偏见永远是偏见。装起行囊,放空心灵,踏向山河湖海的时候,用双脚,双眼,去感受,去评判,去理解吧,去把地图上一个个陌生的地方,变成和自己有关的地方。
英伦三岛,离开城市,深入海角,似乎才开始真正了解你。
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