原文我会放在译文后面，英语好的强烈建议直接去看原文
这样我还能少丢点儿人 -_-#
原文地址：http://www.chiangmaitouristguide.com/07-2008/feature1.html
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「清迈拾遗」：http://www.douban.com/people/gaobiedeying/doulists/all
古城门的老照片，似乎是塔佩门，年代不详
这张是哪道门我没看出来
原文作者：Brian Hubbard & Abha Bhamorabutr
配图：子文东
1296年，孟莱王建立清迈作为兰纳王国的首府。为了保护这座新城，他下令围绕它建造城墙与护城河。城市的布局基于当时的军事与天象理论，在同（素可泰的）兰甘亨王和（帕夭的）安孟王讨论后，城墙被认定应当布置为900x1000 wah(1800x2000米）的矩形，环绕它的护城河应宽18米。工程于1296年4月12日开始，以90000人耗时4个月才完成。建成后，每侧城墙都配有一道城门，并以其位置或者在城市生活中的意义命名。Abha Bhamorabutr在他的书《清迈故事》里，向我们讲述了一个关于城门的趣史。
北门Chang Puek，白象门
北门曾被称为"Hua Vieng" 门，意为进入城市的第一道门。在泰语中，"Hua"为头，"Vieng"在泰北地区指进行防御处。公元1400年左右，这一名字被改为"Chang Puek"，即"白象门"。是清迈历史上的两次事件促成了这次更名。第一件事发生于1386年，清迈的第八位统治者，也就是将佛法由锡兰引入兰纳地区的根纳王，收到了来自于哈里奔猜王国高僧 Phra Maha Sumana Thera＊所赠的佛骨。国王想找一处神圣的地方来收藏它们。为选定最吉利的地点，他将佛骨放在一匹白象背上的象轿中，并将它放生。跟随这匹白象，国王与高僧走出了Hua Vieng门又徒步爬上素贴山，直到它止步于山上某处。此处后来便成为了今天素贴山双龙寺的所在地。
双白象雕塑之一，沿着Chang Puek路走大约500米可见
第二件事发生于大约15年后。 根纳王之子Saen Muang Ma王带领他的军队离开清迈远征素可泰，去讨伐素可泰国王。当他们抵达素可泰城郊时，决定休息一夜，在第二天早晨再发动进攻。然而，当他们在城外扎营，准备明早攻城时，遭到了素可泰军的重创。对疲惫的清迈军而言，这场先发制人的袭击完全在预料之外，以至他们很快就筋疲力竭，溃不成军。Saen Muang Ma王靠着两位忠仆Obb和Yeraka的勇敢与毅力，才带着仅剩的一条命从这场惨败中逃走。在带着国王逃出营地后，由于路途艰险，他们便轮流背负着他直到250公里之遥的清迈。安全的返回让国王非常感激，他以财物重赏他的仆人，并以"Khun Chang Sai（左象）"与"Khun Chang Kava（右象）"为名赐予他们贵族身份。因为左右象均住在Chieng Chom，此地随后建起了"白色双象"以示荣耀。双象起初曾放置在通往"Hua Vieng"门的路两侧，自那时起，城门的名字就改成了"白象门"。
南门之一，清迈门
南门曾被称为"Tai Vieng Gate"，意为最后一道城门。作为Abha Bhamorabutr 城史中的遗漏问题，他并没有解释从何时起因为何事，南门的名字改成了今天的"清迈门"。
东门，游客集散中心，塔佩门
东门曾因为附近的村庄，被称为"Chiang Ruak"门，后来又更名为"内Tha Pae"门。19世纪末，在Wat San Fang寺附近，城外东堤处的"外Tha Pae"门被拆除后，东门的名字便被简称为"Tha Pae"门了。"Tha"在泰语中意为"港"，"Pae"意为水上住宅。将这两个词合在一起，"Tha Pae"是指一座停满水上住宅的港口。该港口当年就在美萍河上如今的Nawarat桥附近。水上住宅曾经是从事是河上贸易者们的交易场所和家。
西门Suan Dok，门外对面是图书馆哦
西门一直被称为"Suan Dok Gate"。"Suan"意为花园或公园，"Dok"是"Dok Mai"的简称，泰语花之意。离此门不远，就在城墙外边，曾有一座皇家花园，满是芬芳缤纷的鲜花以及水质清澈的池塘。国王和兰纳王国的权贵会与他们的亲人带着皇室随从去那里休息娱乐，有时在池中沐浴。
1371年，根纳王献出了花园的一部分给高僧Phra Maha Sumana用做佛殿，后来Wat Suan Dok寺就建在这里。
南门之二，血腥的Suan Prung
在孟莱王筑就围绕清迈的城墙与城门大约100年后，Saen Muang Ma王增加了第五道门。他的妻子Phra Rajathevee并不希望住在城内，所以她在城西南角外的Suan Ra区造了一座宫殿。Phra Rajathevee曾经几乎每天通过这道"Suan Ra"门去监督柴迪隆寺佛塔的建造。随后历史变迁，由于正对这道门的区域用途改变，城门的名字便从"Suan Ra"改为它今天的名字"Suan Prung"。Abha Bhamorabutr 解释说，泰语中"Suan"有双重含义。作为名词是花园或公园，用做动词时则指对抗的动作。例如以手持矛插入他人体内。
"Prung"源自"Pung"一词，在泰北意为肚子或腹部。在清迈历史的这段时期，"Suan Prung门"曾是忤逆者被处决之地，处决的方式是将囚犯捆绑示众，用矛刺入他们的腹部，再由他们这样死掉。
这张不是Tilokarat王开的那个东门二号，只是在可能的位置随便拍了一张。它消失了
第六道门，"Chiang Moi"门，是由1447－1487年统治清迈的Tilokrat **王所建。他认为从他的皇宫到美萍河上的港口路途实在太远，所以为缩短距离，他切断了城墙，建了一道新门。这道门起初曾因它在城中所处的区域被称为"Sri Poom门"。不久后名字被改为"Chang Moi门"。"Chang Moi"在泰语中是"睡象"的意思，但是和南门一样，关于名字的变更是何时又因为何事而发生，Abha Bhamorabutr 没有找到解释。
城墙东北角墙，Si Phum角，可以看到沉降变形
在清迈一个餐馆中看到的老照片，似乎是护城河上的竹桥
直到第二次世界大战，这六道门都是进出城市的唯一通道，也是城市生活的中心，每道门都配有一处市场。它们时刻被守护，并且只从日出开放到日落。每道门外还都曾有一座跨越护城河的竹桥，战争发生时，这些桥会被收起，城门也会紧闭。持续不断的损坏与重建贯穿了这些城墙与城门的历史，但即使有时间的侵袭与入侵军队的破坏，它们仍然幸存。1801年Phra Chao Kawila时期，城门还曾重建。但到了20世纪40年代日军占领泰国期间，当日本人挪走城砖去铺就一条通往Pai县的路时，一个时代也因他们而终结了。除此之外，日本人还拆走了原Nawarat 桥的跨梁用来在这条至今可见的路上另建一座桥***。1966－1969年期间，城门与角墙被再次重建。
清迈古城地图，同样来自那家餐馆
清迈老城城门分布图，Chiang Moi位置我没找到准确的
700年后，孟莱王当初的防御工事还剩四道城门。Tha Pae门与四个角墙曾于1975年重修。尽管城墙几乎消失了，但是那些曾经繁华的城门仍在，经由它们的名字，这座城市的历史记忆依然鲜活。
注：文中内容是Brian Hubbard 整理自 Abha Bhamorabutr所著的《The Story of Chieng Mai》。这本书我没能在清迈图书馆找到，国内也没有翻译出版，只有一些国外图书馆显示有收藏。(已发邮件告知翻译的事，但没回音，好像这网站也没有版权声明，我查了作者的名字，只在清迈的一个论坛中有不相干的提及。 所以忍不住先斩后奏了。)
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哈里奔猜王国是曾经统治清迈地区的孟族人王国，首府是在南奔，后来被孟莱王所击败后，起初迁首府至南邦，随后国王被杀，彻底由孟莱王统治。Phra Maha Sumana Thera并非哈里奔猜王国高僧，而是来自锡兰，居于素可泰，由根纳王邀请至清迈之前，曾在雨季暂居于南奔。
而且Phra Maha Sumana Thera其实不是这位高僧的名字，而是一个用于高等级僧侣的称呼，关于泰国僧侣等级的分类及称呼方式，可以参见
<Monks’ Ranks and Titles>：http://www.thaibuddhism.net/ranks.htm -
Tilokarat王，也就是那位带领兰纳王国走向巅峰，掀起阿育陀耶－兰纳之战的强势国王。人家果然霸气，懒得走路就砸城墙。。。
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其实此种说法很有争议，并没有准确的证据证明，日军的确将这座桥的零件拆除，用于修建Pai县那座著名的拍照景点"二战桥"。但从这种说法中可以看出，泰国人对曾经被日本控制和我们一样感到气愤屈辱，而且城墙被拆掉铺路的确是事实。
关于这一点，可以参见
<The Mystery of Tha Pai Bridge>：http://allaboutpai.com/bridge/
用了一天翻译，又用了一天拍照，才终于完成了这篇。第一次翻译文章，开始后才发现竟然比自己写更难，尤其是凭我这种凑合用的蹩脚英语，好多次都怀疑是费力不讨好。但还是觉得必须如此，既然所知道的基本都来自于它，就应当保留原文的模样。非常欣赏作者以寻常事物穿起琐碎历史的写法，简单清晰是最不容易的，有关泰国的英文游记中不乏这样的好文章，希望以后我们的中文游记也能多一些类似的吧～ （其实我的意思是：与其抱怨同胞们的素质差，只知吃喝玩乐购物，不如一起补一下逼格。）
我会继续努力整理，但很快就要回国了，所以欢迎有类似想法的朋友加入进来，一同探索这个拥有迷人历史和狂野自然的国度。
原文：
「The Story of Chieng Mai」
Brian Hubbard & Abha Bhamorabutr
In 1296, King Mengrai established Chiang Mai as the capital of Lanna Kingdom. To protect his new city, he ordered the construction of a perimeter wall and moat. The city layout was based on ancient military and astrological beliefs and, in consultation with King Ramkamhaeng and King Ngum Muang, it was decided that the wall should be laid in a rectangular shape, 900 by 1,000 wah (1,800 x 2,000 metres). The moat surrounding it was to be 18 metres wide. Work commenced on 12thApril 1296 AD and it took 90,000 men 4 months to complete. When it was finished, each wall had one gate and each gate was given a name that related to its location or significance in city life. In his book "The Story of Chieng Mai", Abha Bhamorabutr relates an interesting history of the gates.
The North Gate was called "Hua Vieng Gate" which means the first gate to enter the city. In Thai language "Hua" means head and in northern Thai "Vieng" is a fortified place. Around 1400 AD this name was changed to "Chang Puek", the "White Elephant Gate". Two events in Chiang Mai's history contributed to this change of name. The first occurred in 1386 AD. King Geu-Na, the eighth ruler of Chiang Mai, was the King who introduced Buddhism from Ceylon to Lannathai. Phra Maha Sumana Thera, a priest from Hariphunchai, had presented the King with some Buddha relics and the King wanted to find a holy place to bury them. To determine the most auspicious site, the King had the relics placed in a howdah on the back of a white elephant and then set it free. Followed by the King and Phra Sumana, the elephant left the city by the Hua Vieng Gate and walked up Doi Suthep until it came to rest at a spot on the hill that is now the location of Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep.
The second event happened about 15 years later. King Saen Muang Ma, the son of King Geu-Na, had led his army on an expedition from Chiang Mai to Sukhothai, with the intention of capturing the city kingdom. When they arrived on the outskirts of Sukhothai, it was decided to rest for the night and attack in the morning.However, while the Chiang Mai army was camped outside of Sukhothai preparing itself for the morning attack on the city, they were savagely attacked by the Sukhothai army. This pre-emptive strike caught the tired Chiang Mai army by surprise and they were easily overwhelmed and slaughtered. King Saen Muang Ma only escaped the massacre with his life because of the courage and stamina of his two faithful servants, Obb and Yeraka. They got the King out of the camp and then, because of the rough terrain, took turns to carry him on their shoulders all the way back to Chiang Mai, a distance of some 250 kilometres. Upon his safe return the King was so grateful that he rewarded his servants with money and materials and nominated them to royal ranking as Khun Chang Sai; the left elephant, and Khun Chang Kava; the right elephant. Both Khun Changs lived at Chieng Chom and later at this location the "Two White Elephants" monument was built in their honour.The elephants were originally placed on either side of the road leading to the "Hua Vieng Gate" and the name was then changed to the "White Elephant Gate".
The South Gate was called "Tai Vieng Gate" which means the last gate of the city. At some point in its history, Abha Bhamorabutr doesn't tell us when or why it happened, this became known by its present name of "Chiang Mai Gate".
The East Gate was named "Chiang Ruak Gate" after the nearby village. This changed to "Inner Tha Pae Gate" and then at the end of the 19thcentury, when the "Outer Tha Pae Gate" in the outer earthen embankment near Wat San Fang, was removed, the name was shortened to "Tha Pae Gate". The word "Tha" in Thai means harbour and "Pae" means floating house. Put the two together and you have "Tha Pae"; a harbour full of floating houses. The harbour was on the Mae Ping River near where the Nawarat Bridge now stands. The floating houses were the homescumbusiness premises of the river traders.
The West Gate has always been called "Suan Dok Gate". "Suan" means garden or park and "Dok" is shortened from "Dok Mai"; the Thai word for flower. Not far from this gate, just outside the city walls, there was a royal flower garden full of colourful and fragrant flowers and ponds of clear water. Kings and Rulers of Lannathai would go to the gardens with their families and royal retinue, to relax and enjoy themselves, and occasionally bathe in the ponds. In 1371 AD King Geu-Na dedicated a part of the gardens as a sanctuary for the priest Phra Maha Sumana and it was here that Wat Suan Dok was built.
About 100 years after King Mengrai had completed the walls and gates around Chiang Mai, King Saen Muang Ma added a fifth gate. His wife, Phra Rajathevee didn't want to live inside the city so she had a palace built in the Suan Ra district; an area outside of the southwest corner of the city. Phra Rajathevee used the "Suan Ra" gate almost daily to go to oversee the construction of Chedi Luang. Later in its history, because of a change in the use of the land immediately around the gate, the name was changed from "Suan Ra" to its present name of "Suan Prung". Abha Bhamorabutr explains that in Thai the word "Suan" has two meanings. As a noun "Suan" means garden or park. As a verb "suan" means the action against something, for example to hold a spear in your hand and thrust it into the body of another person.
"Prung" comes from the word "Pung", which in northern Thai means a paunch or belly. At this time in Chiang Mai's history, "Suan Prung Gate" was the place where the execution of rebels was carried out; the manner of execution being to tie the prisoners to a post, thrust a spear into their belly and then leave them to die.
The sixth gate, Chang Moi Gate was built by King Tilokraj who ruled Chiang Mai from 1447-1487 AD. The King considered that it was a long journey from his royal residence to Tha Pae on the Ping River so to shorten the route he had a new gate cut into the wall. This gate was originally called the "Sri Poom Gate" because that was the area of the city in which it was situated. At a later date the name was changed to "Chang Moi Gate". "Chang Moi" in Thai means "sleepy elephant" but, as with the South Gate, Abha Bhamorabutr could find no record of when or why this name-change took place.
Up until the Second World War, the six gates were the only access points into and out of the city and they were focal points of city life; every gate had a market. They were always guarded and were only open from sunrise to sunset. Outside each gate was a bamboo bridge spanning the moat and in times of war these bridges were taken away and the gates firmly closed. Throughout their history the walls and the gates have survived the ravages of time and the onslaught of invading armies through a continuous process of decay and repair. The city gates were restored in 1801, during the reign of Phra Chao Kawila. It was the Japanese in the 1940's, during their occupation of Thailand, who ended an era when they used the bricks from the walls to build a road up to Pai. The Japanese also took spans from the original Nawarat Bridge to make a bridge on that road which you can still see today. The gates and corners were rebuilt once again between 1966-1969.
700 years later, all that remains of King Mengrai's original fortifications are 4 gates; Tha Pae Gate was rebuilt again in 1975, and the 4 corners with it. The walls may mostly be gone but memories of the history of the city live on in the names of these once illustrious portals.
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